I have decided to build a 300 blackout. I am still sort of unsure of the process on converting the 223 brass to accept the 30 cal bullet. I already reload for multiple bolt action rifles and pistols so I understand the process just unclear on the best way to change the brass. Any knowledge on this matter would be great.
converting 223 to 300 blackout
- Thread starter jbburch
- Start date
bigedp51
Always remember that Google is your best friend for getting information.
how to make 300 blackout brass
https://www.google.com/#q=how+to+make+300+blackout+brass
Especially if your lazy..............
who makes 300 blackout cases?
Hornady Reloading Brass 300 AAC Blackout Box of 50
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/490243/hornady-reloading-brass-300-aac-blackout-box-of-50?cm_vc=ProductFinding
how to make 300 blackout brass
https://www.google.com/#q=how+to+make+300+blackout+brass
Especially if your lazy..............
who makes 300 blackout cases?
Hornady Reloading Brass 300 AAC Blackout Box of 50
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/490243/hornady-reloading-brass-300-aac-blackout-box-of-50?cm_vc=ProductFinding
I make .300BLK brass commercially. Unless you need several thousand new cases a month, I would suggest you purchase brass rather than invest in the tooling to make your own. Just my opinion.
As far as the method I use...
1. Cut 5.56 brass at a length of 1.370 with a chop saw.
2. Decap
3. Insert brass into a sizing die modified so that the opening is funneled enough to allow the full diameter of the case to enter with ease. Insert just far enough to start the new bottle neck. I replace this die every 40-50K because the burrs left in step number one tend to scratch the die.
4. Full length size with a standard FL die.
5. Swage the primer pocket if using LC brass.
6. Trim to 1.357
7. Deburr and chamfer the neck.
8. Tumble with most any method you desire.
9. Anneal the new case necks and shoulder, that was created from the former case wall.
10. Hand inspect through out the process, watching for wrinkles in the necks and dents. I cull about 10 percent of every production run.
It isn't extremely hard to make Blackout Brass, It is hard to make excellent high quality brass. I strongly suggest you start with matching head stamps, including years if using USGI brass, if you want consistent lengths and headspace.
Good Luck!
As far as the method I use...
1. Cut 5.56 brass at a length of 1.370 with a chop saw.
2. Decap
3. Insert brass into a sizing die modified so that the opening is funneled enough to allow the full diameter of the case to enter with ease. Insert just far enough to start the new bottle neck. I replace this die every 40-50K because the burrs left in step number one tend to scratch the die.
4. Full length size with a standard FL die.
5. Swage the primer pocket if using LC brass.
6. Trim to 1.357
7. Deburr and chamfer the neck.
8. Tumble with most any method you desire.
9. Anneal the new case necks and shoulder, that was created from the former case wall.
10. Hand inspect through out the process, watching for wrinkles in the necks and dents. I cull about 10 percent of every production run.
It isn't extremely hard to make Blackout Brass, It is hard to make excellent high quality brass. I strongly suggest you start with matching head stamps, including years if using USGI brass, if you want consistent lengths and headspace.
Good Luck!
P1ZombieKiller
Gold $$ Contributor
+1 to what Warbird said.
My steps are in a little different order, but mostly all there.
I do it a bit different in that I take a FL sizing die, take out the guts (decapping pin and 308 ball) and actually size the 223 brass whole before cutting which actually makes 2 shoulders (the lackout shoulder and the orginal 223 shoulder). I then cut it on a mini chop saw, then I FL size it in a standard blackout die with all the insides. This saves the
My brass is not as exact as you would would want in a benchrest gun, but my black out is designed for 1 moa accuracy.
My steps are in a little different order, but mostly all there.
I do it a bit different in that I take a FL sizing die, take out the guts (decapping pin and 308 ball) and actually size the 223 brass whole before cutting which actually makes 2 shoulders (the lackout shoulder and the orginal 223 shoulder). I then cut it on a mini chop saw, then I FL size it in a standard blackout die with all the insides. This saves the
My brass is not as exact as you would would want in a benchrest gun, but my black out is designed for 1 moa accuracy.
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