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Concentricity gauge recomendation

Using a dead flat piece of plate glass I have determined after checking 56 reloaded rounds that about 20% of them have a varying degree of run out in them. I would like to buy a concentricity gauge so as to determine at what stage of my reloading is the run out being induced and correct it.

I must also closely reexamine my reloading process step by step because slightly more than about 75% reloads had no runout at all I could see and this was after rolling each round 20-30x So it's obvious run out is not being induced in every reload.

I've been looking at all kinds of gauges and are looking for some advice. I am strictly a non competitive shooter and will remain so for quite some time so I don't need nor can I afford to spend much over $150 on a concent/gauge, but like with so many things I am having difficulty sorting through the opinions of what is a good gauge and what Isn't.

Accordingly I am leaning towards the NECO gauge as it strikes me as the most versatile, does the most best for my buck gauge, but I could be wrong. I'm reasonably certain I will need to check my brass prior to and after sizing and before I prime,charge and seat a bulletin order to pinpoint when and how run out is being induced into my brass.

I might end up having to turn and uniform the necks of my brass to solve my run out problem, but before I invest in a neck turning tool I need to be certain I actually need one.

Suggestions?
 
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I have the Sinclair but if I were to buy another one it probably would be this one. The sinclair is ok but you have to keep an even down force on the case.

21st Century

I measure in this position about halfway to the tip. I'm happy with up to .001" (that .0005" per side) and will accept .002". Measuring case necks will only work it they have been turned 100% of the way around although you can get a good estimate with less. If you could read the inside of the neck it would be better and uneven neck thickness wouldn't matter but this tool will not do it. I neck turn all my brass and normally .001" in the center of the neck is decent. But it doesn't tell you if the neck is slightly angled off centerline.

Run-Out.jpg
 
I have owned and tried a lot of the concentricity gauges on the market and found that the NECO gauge is the one I use most. Even though it doesn't have features like some of the other ones, such as bearings for the case to roll on, or "wheels" to turn the case, the NECO gauge gives me the smoothest readings. The others tended to be a little erratic regarding the dial indicator readings, all depending how you "rolled" the case. Other folks may have their own opinions but for me, the NECO gauge is the way to go. ( I still have the 21st Century one that I still use from time to time for comparison results while using the NECO)
Here's a little tip I picked up on the web, regardless of which gauge you use, rather than turning the case with your fingers, I use a knife handle blank with insulation tape on one side and roll the case with that. Others have used a tongue depressor with a rubber band on it length-wise. Much smoother read-outs on your indicator. Roll it at an angle so as to keep the case head against the stop.
Gauges that I've tried:
RCBS, Sinclair, 21st Century, Forster, Hornady, & Accuracy One,
 
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fwiw & imho,
Accuracy One with a Mitutoyo 513-402-10E .0005" Indicator... It does not fit your cost parameters, however, I think it is the best unit on the market by a good bit and I've owned several others...

Buy your inidcator from Zoro on sale anywhere from $106-$75 depending on the percentage sale they are running. You just missed the July 4th sale.

http://www.bullettipping.com/products_concentricitygauge.html
Thanks for the suggestion. I am an admitted unabashed tool junky and as such have sat and drooled over the Accuracy/1 gauge many times. I'm still waiting to pick out a belated fathers day gift so we'll see.
 
Ok let me ask another question or better yet rephrase my original post.

Neco or Accuracy 1 which gauge? is the A/1 worth the considerable extra $$$ the cost of which could be used to pay for most of a neck turning kit.
 
I have both the 21st Century and the NECO. For measuring bullet runout/concentricity I like the NECO much better.. I've been using it for over 15 years. Its easy to adjust and gives a smooth reading, once you learn how to us it. The 21st Century is a great tool, no doubt, but I only use it for measuring case neck runout. I usually check several or most of my cases when they come out of the die to make sure the necks are straight . That feature is not readily available with the NECO. They do offer a "way" to measure case neck runout but "it ain't easy"...I have a few other concentricity tools like the Holland which does a good job of measuring both the bullet concentricity as well as the case neck concentricity. But the NECO is just so much easier to use ...You really need a tool, or tools, that measures both. I would not want to be without both of these two tools.
 
You stated that you didn't want to spend over $150.00 and then were a "tool junky" and "drooled" over the A1....( which costs considerably more than 150 )



Get them both!.....a super belated Fathers Day gift! ;)

Could always sell whichever one you don't like . . . . .
 
Here's a little tip I picked up on the web, regardless of which gauge you use, rather than turning the case with your fingers, I use a knife handle blank with insulation tape on one side and roll the case with that. Others have used a tongue depressor with a rubber band on it length-wise. Much smoother read-outs on your indicator. Roll it at an angle so as to keep the case head against the stop."
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I roll the cases with a fingernail file you can buy anywhere - iT IS ABOUT 5" X 3/4" with two black rough sides. Lay flat side on the case, and roll gently. I place one finger lightly against the meplat to keep the case head positioned against its stop.

But my Holland guage (similar to the Sinclair) is not a great one.
 
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You stated that you didn't want to spend over $150.00 and then were a "tool junky" and "drooled" over the A1....( which costs considerably more than 150 )

Now this sounds like normal behavior to me. --Jerry
 
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