Concentricity Gage - Thoughts & Experience, What Model

[Oso]

I am contemplating a Concentricity Gage. I don't shoot competitively, but I reload for a number of calibers, including several wildcats. What models are worth considering?

The last thread I saw on this was 2015 so a tad stale.

 

[jepp2]

What models are worth considering?

I'll give my take based on my experience.

I started with the Hornady Concentricity gauge. Thought it could do what I wanted and had the ability to straighten as well.

Next I purchased the Sinclair gauge. Gave better results in my opinion, but it takes really even pressure to get consistent results.

Next up the ladder was the 21st Century gauge with the roller wheel. The wheel provides much more consistent results. Used this one for a few years.

Next up, I came across a good deal on an Accuracy One concentricity gauge. The cat's meow. Was everything I was looking for, and with the ease of using with excellent results. Sold the above 3 gauges.

I did this to reduce runout and improve my results on target. I was very successful in determining where my runout was coming from and how to reduce it. Can I say it improved my accuracy? Not one bit.

 

[Ranger007]

I bought once and cried once. Went right for the cat’s meow and went with a Accuracy One. Tried/borrowed others from friends before I made a educated decision. So glad I forked out the dough for the accuracy 1, no regrets.

 

[caihlen]

I have, and use an old NECO. Takes a little finagling but it works and helps me identify problems. But it is most certainly a bit fiddly.

 

[tac284]

I am at stage three, 21st century.

 

[PopCharlie]

I have and use a Sinclair. It works well on necks and loaded rounds. It does not work for bullets. I've had it for many years.

PopCharlie

 

[Intheshop]

Made one out of some pretty high end $$$ bits from our machine shop.

It doesn't get used very often,and could live without one but,why? It is really nice to have if you're going through different components,adding dies,or for anything needing a quality check. If all you're loading is,or stays virtually the same.... not a whole lot of reason to need one. Assuming you're happy with the results.

I do find it interesting that folks who tell you to,test...test...test. As each rig is a individual,and what works in theirs,may not in yours. Which I fully agree with. But then turn around and say that chasing low runout #'s is a waste of time?

It depends on the situation.

There's a lot of things that,if taken by themselves,won't get you anymore precision. The trick is,knowing how certain functions are building blocks for further development. And/or as a way to clean up the whole process..... if it's easy,with proper protocol,to produce really dang straight ammo,why would you not? Don't confuse this with,putting all your eggs in one basket either. There are things to learn about loading,building your knowledge reserve,that can come from using certain processes or products,even if they don't have immediate results on paper. Sorry for the novel.

Good luck with your shooting.

 

[Retired Grunt]

I bought a Hornaday because I thought I needed it, I seat with Hornaday Match Grade dies and when I started checking, my loads were straight with little to no run out. I have seen it here somewhere, use good dies and you won't have the problem. So far I have found this to be true.

 

[Grimstod]

Here is what I use. In my opinion it is the only. concentricity gage worth having.

 

[Richard Coody]

Just my opinion

I have been down the concentricity trail.

My conclusions are they are a great tool for the precision reloader to identify where his reloading procedures need work. You can identify where runout is being introduced and fix it.

Once you have established a reloading procedure and the equipment needed to produce the straightest ammo your concentricity gauge will be gathering dust on the shelf.

 

[Longtrain]

Sinclair has worked well for me, cases or loaded rounds.

 

[JimSC]

I use the Hornady, seems to work well enough. As others point out once you get your case prep down it becomes a paper weight. Recently I went back to checking all of my ammo in a search for the odd flier and found that concentricity good so it is nice to have one on the shelf just in case

 

[BDman]

A few of my shooting friends and I went in together to purchase a friend of a friend's 21st Century CG; very discounted because it'd become a paper weight for him. I'm not even sure who has it right now but I'm glad I didn't buy my own. Basically, have only used it when setting up a new press or dies. Checked within .001 or so and done with it for quite a while. Better than .001 to .000 is great but not seen on paper. Just my .03

Edit: My friend with a new 6GT project has it.

 

[rwj]

Curious if anyone that’s used a concentricity gauge has compared the results with those produced when the round is chambered? It’s hard to understand how when the case is supported on four points, it accurately represents its position/orientation when chambered.

 

[JEFFPPC]

Save your money. Much better spent on barrels, bullets, and competition.Most unneeded piece of equipment I have bought. I have only ever spoken to 1 competitor who thought it was important. He has become a friend. He has never won any type of bench match.

 

[jr600yd]

I’ve got a Neco concentricity gauge........somewhere........I think........maybe.......haven’t seen it in years........

 

[Longtrain]

Save your money. Much better spent on barrels, bullets, and competition.Most unneeded piece of equipment I have bought. I have only ever spoken to 1 competitor who thought it was important. He has become a friend. He as never won any type of bench match.

I use a Sinclair as I stated above, but I do agree with you in part. Trigger time is certainly going to make you a better shooter, not necessarily a pristine round... But, a good friend multiple HM and winner of the President’s 100, told me that at 1000 yards, everything matters. So, for those LR matches on the FClass target, yup, I check my rounds and so far, I haven’t been burned. If I shoot an 8, I don’t blame the bullet, I own them all myself. I pretty much know where the round should go when I send it, be it an X or worse.
You can make the best round out there, but if you’re not a good trigger puller, you can’t will those shots into the X ring.

 

[1066]

I too decided to make my own after being disappointed with what was available:

 

[msinc]

I, like many others, went from one to another a few times and then I read Tony Boyers book. He said that after winning some big benchrest shoot there was a guy there selling his rendition of a concentricity gauge. The man asked if he could check some of Mr. Boyers rounds and they showed somewhere around .008" out of whack. Tony said, "I decided right then, after winning the whole shooting match with that ammo I didn't need that tool"....before everyone goes ballistic, I get the way Mr. Boyer reloads and no doubt that has a lot to do with this story.
For me, I had always heard and read that from .000" {dead on concentric} to .003" you were good. I tested this and agree I was not able to tell on the target which rounds had zero and which ones had .003". The confusing part comes in when I tested rounds with more than .003 up to .008 or so. With a very accurate rifle that shoots many bullets and many powders and charges well I still didn't see much difference on target. Where it mattered that I could tell was with rifles that are very picky about a certain bullet and powder charge and seat depth to get them to shoot. I have no doubt many will disagree or have a different conclusion, but that's the way it was for me.
Bottom line, I wouldn't go thru 4 different tools and eventually end up with the "best" most expensive made had I have known this up front. Should you still get one?? Maybe, it's always good to know you are putting straight ammo together.

 

[dannyjbiggs]

Here's one for you. I think it may be a homemade-job, because there is no manufactuer mark on it? I acquired it from a service rifle shooting friend back in the '80's when we were shooting military service rifle competition in the USAR. At the time, we universally used them to "roll" our Lake City 7.62mm M852.

It is exceptionally heavy duty in construction, stiff and strong, weighing a little over 2 pounds. Best I can tell, it may be adjusted for about any cartridge (?), except .22 rimfire. It is very simple to set up/adjust, and withstands rough, aggressive handling (unlike the NECO that I briefly had). The cartridge rests on four bearings frozen into the metal with a cartridge back-stop. Operation is very quick using one's two first fingers to alternatively steady the cartridge in the "tray" while the other first finger push "rolls" the cartridge. I would easily "roll/sort" a can of M852 within an hour back then. (I may still have one can where the individual boxes are marked "0"...meaning no run-out.)

I used it on all .308 military and hand loads thru end of last century. As I transitioned into the use of Wilson hand dies/arbor press this century, first into Palma and then F-Class, I realized there was little need to continue "rolling". And, as others have commented, it became an excellent paper weight for me.

Dan