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Cocking cam questions

Currently my rem700 action is in pieces. Doing some other work on it and don't have my notes handy. How do you know when the cam needs work on a 700?
 
Can't help with the 700. (hope this might have helped some Savage shooters).
Other than some old battle rifles the only bolt action I have played with is the Wife's Savage (quantity of one).
I'll move on from the Savage bolt body mods while I wait for a decision :). Everyone that needed to see this probably already has. I don't really have anything else to offer on Cocking Cams.

I've experimented with firing pins, springs and lift kits. Managed to get a couple of Tubb Savage Long Action springs before they were gone but haven't started the "cutdown" process for a short action. Set the new style non-adjustable one piece pins off to the side. Sort of gave up on them.
I'll talk about my experiences with springs, lift kits, and shims (and the AccuTrigger) in my other thread.

I'll restate that I am NOT an expert. Guys like Alex and Fred would be a more reliable source of info.
They have dropped little bits and pieces of good info over the past years.
Knowledge of working on hundreds, if not thousands of bolt and actions. They KNOW the math.
(hopefully not injuring any Algebras in the process).
 
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If this is for solely a bench/range rifle, messing with cam dimensions might be worthwhile, especially making the peak of the cam a little less sharp. Then the last bit of bolt lift could roll over the cam a bit easier.
I prefer to keep the cam surfaces the same(I have rounded the cam tip on some target rifles though) but I like a piece of 400 grit sand paper to smooth the surfaces out. I think it leaves enough texture for grease to have a place to sit without being wiped away too much. I also have a hypothesis that when the two surfaces are a little more uniform they burnish each other a bit which improves their movement against each other.
 
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