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CLR for CARBON

Is there more than one type of CLR. I noticed at the store today a spray bottle of CLR that was recommended to use for grass stains from things like football uniforms. There is also a CLR product for calcium and lime removal. Are they both the same thing?
 
You want the one for calcium, lime, and rust removal....the original. They have many products now under the CLR brand that have nothing to do with the original product.
 
Ah! I tried some - it was their 'industrial strength cleaner'. I see that it's not the 'calcium, lime, rust' formula. No wonder it didnt' work.
 
Need to know how to neutralize that CLR completely. Stainless steel has nickel in it if I'm not mistaken. CLR destroys nickel-plated bathroom fixtures.
 
Need to know how to neutralize that CLR completely. Stainless steel has nickel in it if I'm not mistaken. CLR destroys nickel-plated bathroom fixtures.

Bathroom fixtures are generally chrome plated, not nickel plated. If you look at the ingredient list in the link I provided there's really nothing to "neutralize" so I'd be looking to rinse well with water and or rubbing alcohol. FWIW I used to use Simichrome polish [I think Gun Brite is the same stuff] to clean the carbon from nickel plated revolvers. For the really caked on stuff in the front half of the cylinder recesses [I believe that's a proper name for them] I'd just scrape it off with a .357 case since nickel is way harder than brass.
 
Isnt clr an acid? I would think maybe sulfamic but not sure. Anyways if it works then a trial on a near shot out barrel versus your best barrel. Does it degrade the barrel or frost the finish, again dont know. I would love to see someone do a scientific test to make darn sure it is safe.
 
Isnt clr an acid? I would think maybe sulfamic but not sure. Anyways if it works then a trial on a near shot out barrel versus your best barrel. Does it degrade the barrel or frost the finish, again dont know. I would love to see someone do a scientific test to make darn sure it is safe.

There is lactic acid and gluconic acid neither of which is a strong acid and likely to affect gun metal. Sulfamic acid is an ingredient in Ortho brush killer. You can buy via eBay and it makes a great stump killer. Cut/drill some slots or holes in the stump, sprinkle the sulfamic acid on and then add some household ammonia.
 
Need to know how to neutralize that CLR completely. Stainless steel has nickel in it if I'm not mistaken. CLR destroys nickel-plated bathroom fixtures.
My thoughts exactly. If in a strong enough aqueous solution acid WILL etch stainless steel. It may work on carbon, but not in my rifles. However, to each their own.....

Scott
 
Works fine in a SS barrel. No pitting/evidence of corrosion found on this end. I use it as my first agent and let it sit for 10 minutes or so, bronze brush it, then run a patch or three. I follow with Eliminator patchings, Cu2+ after if needed. I don't use any agent to intentionally neutralize the mild organic acids in CLR...just my usual cleaners to follow.
 
Surprised a moderator is ignoring this.

Maybe a year or so ago I was firmly told I would be banned from this forum if I made any comment on CLR usage on firearms. It is NOT a product made to use on firearms. It is an acid and it IMMEDIATELY DESTROYS bluing if you make the mistake of allowing any of it to touch a blued gun part.

It removes carbon in a barrel but must be flushed with some kind of protective solvent like Hoppes #9. Do not recommend it for firearms as there can be ancillary damage to that firearm and you do not control how others might use it.
 
My thoughts exactly. If in a strong enough aqueous solution acid WILL etch stainless steel. It may work on carbon, but not in my rifles. However, to each their own.....

Scott

There's a reason why they say not to let ammonia based copper removers sit in your barrels too long. Al least that's what I understand and do.
 
I gave everything a try but after I tried it on my barrel some CLR must have been in the locking log channel and etched my bolt face , luckily I cought it in time . So make sure you remove it all after trying . Haven't used it since.

Chris
 
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I’ve used CLR exclusively to clean my rifles for the last 3 years or so. I scrub with CLR on patches on a jag first, then on a bronze brush - just regular cleaning, nothing different than what I’d do with any other solvent. It has worked just great through the lives of at least 4 .308 barrels. It removes carbon better than any gun cleaning product I’ve tried, and barrels settle back in quickly after cleaning. I don’t do anything to “neutralize” it, and it hasn’t damaged or etched anything. A lifetime supply costs about $8 at Walmart.
 

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