Clearcoat on bare wood stock?

[joshb]

Duh! The EASY BUTTON is Arrowood oil. Sand to 600-1000 and put the oil on it. Done!

 

[JohnHenry]

Duh! The EASY BUTTON is Arrowood oil. Sand to 600-1000 and put the oil on it. Done!

Josh, How many coats are typically needed? Advantages vs Tru-Oil? Thanks!

 

[JMA]

You are being redirected...

 

[LVLAaron]

I'm definitely not opposed to oil for this one. I've got a gallon of really nice tung oil that works great on hardwood floors.... should be fine for a gun I dont care about heh

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

More than one way it can be done. I use a thin auto clear right over the top of wood. It soaks in and bites. Never had any issue with it coming off, at all. Sealer is another way and it reduces how many coats it will take by maybe a couple. I feel like as long as the wood is well prepped and the pores blown out well, the straight clear might be a tad "clearer". The down side is getting all those pores filled in well. I spray a couple of thin coats down, then, believe it ot not, brush it on heavy. Brushing fills pores much better than spraying and we're nowhere near a finished product at this point. Itll get slick in time. This just fills the pores faster, IME, than by spraying. A sponge brush works well. Just move fast with it.

 

[NorCalMikie]

Had a laminated stock that I did with Tru oil. After a few years, it needed "something else". Sanded it down, took it to the body shop and the next time they were shooting Automotive Clear, had them shoot the stock. To my surprise, there were colors that JUMPED out. Colors I'd never seen before. The Tru Oil acted like a sealer.

Had a friend build a 'box" with a light in it for heat. He shot one of my stocks.
Turned out OK but not like a Professional job.
Get a PRO to do it and don't look back.
And something else to keep in mind, Auto Clear will make your babies be born NEKED!! I know of a couple of painters with NEKED babies.

Pretty powerful stuff so plan ahead.

 

[jbarron]

This is a good explanation of using automotive type paints on wood which would carry over to gun stocks. I've used this process and am very happy with it.

 

[Bc'z]

I peeled these clear pucks out of 3M pps cups a half hour ago, you can see where they are starting to split.this next photo is Simtech 37x4
2 pucks chemically fused together
Notice the air bubble and the scratches where I beat the ever loving shit out of it on a metal step.
You simply can't do that with automotive clear!!
I'm not saying you can't achieve a good paint job with automotive clear, I am saying Simtech is tougher.

 

[Hntndad]

This pro tip brought to you from our very own resident solvent sniffer….

 

[Bc'z]

This pro tip brought to you from our very own resident solvent sniffer….

I've been professionally sucking fumes for 35 years.
Keeps me normal

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I started using a 2 part epoxy on the wood before clearing. It stops the grain from sucking in the clear a year down the road. Actually, you can just rub in epoxy and steel wool it until you get a nice satin finish. It will be hard as nails and last forever. No different than rubbing in linseed oil with your palm.

 

[joshb]

Josh, How many coats are typically needed? Advantages vs Tru-Oil? Thanks!

Well, I have never used Tru oil so I can’t say. @Preacher turned me on to Arrowood years ago. It worked great and I stuck with it. I have tried to use a spray gun, but I REALLY suck at it!

 

[Tarmacshooter]

Oh man I wanted the easy button.

Now I'm looking at spray guns.

@Bc'z - I don't see a 37x4 - Looks like there's a 5 and a 6 though.

I told you….

 

[Bc'z]

Here's a Xring im starting to block out.
You can clearly see how much blocking it takes to get straight by comparing the comb to the lower butt thats been blocked out.

 

[joshb]

Josh, How many coats are typically needed? Advantages vs Tru-Oil? Thanks!

John.....I didn’t answer the question on coats. I put the first coat on heavy and soak the stock. Come back in an hour, rub it down with my hand. Come back in an hour and wipe off any excess with a paper towel. Let it dry overnight and hand rub it to check for any gummy spots I missed.
I’ll do a couple more coats for a “regular” hunter and go shoot.
For a pretty piece, I’ve done 20 coats .

 

[JohnHenry]

John.....I didn’t answer the question on coats. I put the first coat on heavy and soak the stock. Come back in an hour, rub it down with my hand. Come back in an hour and wipe off any excess with a paper towel. Let it dry overnight and hand rub it to check for any gummy spots I missed.
I’ll do a couple more coats for a “regular” hunter and go shoot.
For a pretty piece, I’ve done 20 coats .

Thanks Josh.

 

[Twdmar]

You can put this on with a rag. It's a very easy finish. Unlike some traditional oil finishes you don't have wait very long to use it. If you have an ace hardware in town, they probably have it.

 

[Twdmar]

I just used a product a couple weeks ago called solarez I can't believe it's not lacquer. I am not totally sold either way on it, but if you needed to clear a stock and use it 10 minutes later, you could.
It cures with UV light in about a minute and is fully hard in about 5. It's %100 solids but requires a few changes over a traditional clear. I heated it in the microwave to thin it and sprayed at 45psi inlet pressure on my help. It looks pretty glossy and sands easy. Touch up is quick-ish and they claim no toxic fumes.
The bad parts: it's not cheap, you must sand prior to putting down another coat and it's not cheap.

 

[LVLAaron]

I'd like to see the rest of that stock!

 

[Capt. Oblivious]

Well, I have never used Tru oil so I can’t say. @Preacher turned me on to Arrowood years ago. It worked great and I stuck with it. I have tried to use a spray gun, but I REALLY suck at it!

Many many coats of T oil over a year, polishing, oiling, rubbing, buffing, oiling and all that fun stuff. We don't get arrowwood over here but what I have seen and herd is that the 2 should be very similar