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Cleaning jags

It won't fall off but it's the best cleaning jag in my opinion , the Parker Hale. Works just as good as a mop . I don't run the jag unpacked down the barrel . First few passes I remove the jag once it exists. You can use a scrubbing action until it exists but I always remove the jag , never bring it back down through the barrel
 
I used a parker hale but probably didn't have enough patch around it because it left small marks in my barrel. The marks came off when I ran an Otis ripcord through it.
 
Hi rebs
I only use the jag on a rod , you have to find the right amount of raps that allow a snug fit and will cover all the jag grips . My take a few cuts on a patch but once you find the right size , for me that's all I use . Also different cleaners on the same patch will make a difference , if I use Hoppes#9 it will work fine but if I use KG-1 it would jam. I start with a few patches of #9 then everything goes smooth. Good to hear from you again.

Chris
 
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/jag/

Copper Eliminator” jags and brush adapters made from aircraft-grade aluminum


Avoid ones with the slot.20200926_094600.jpg I had one patch come out of the slot & jam between the steel cleaning rod and barrel last week. Had to hammer it towards muzzle, thinking patch was still in slot. It was not. Had to hammer rod back out towards chamber.


I always used this one before. Lesson learned at age 75. DeweyParkerHaleStyleRifleCleaningJAG.JPG

Forum Boss: Good warning. Thank you. We general like spear-tip jags, and the 21st century ones are great. http://www.xxicsi.com/nylon-cleaning-jag.html
 
Last edited by a moderator:
243
Great caliber also, I only use those slotted tips for wiping the inside of the magazine well on a 1911, the Parker Hale works perfect when wrapped properly , may have to do a little trimming on the patch.

Chris
 
Brass "pointed jags" are fine with use of solvent like Hoppe's No. 9 for removing carbon filing but should not be used with copper removing solvents since they will react with the copper solvent.

I use Dewey's "copper eliminator" jags for all applications where a pointed jag is used thus simplifying jags selection.

I agree with the post citing the warning on "brass looped jags". A loop jag however can be useful since it facilitates the application of more solvent to the bore than pointed jags with tight fitting patches. I use Hoppe's plastic loop jags for this purpose when applying the final pass of solvent in preparation for the "dwell" time (solvent allowed to remain in the bore for a prescribe period of time to work chemically).

One issue I've had difficulty in dealing with is matching the patch with the jag that produces the optimum fit. Some jags and patches, even from the same supplier are either too tight or loose. I believe it's vital to have a optimum fit to avoid having to force the rod down the bore but having it tight enough to remove fouling and solvent. I solved this problem by adjusting the jag to the patch size but placing the jag in a drill and carefully and slowing reducing the diameter with No. 220 grit paper and measuring frequently to monitor reduction and testing in the bore (after thoroughly cleaning off any residue). I've found that the Dewey copper eliminator jags are easily adjusted due to their aluminum construction.
 
I tried using a 270 jag for my 308 but found ordering the 3" square 45 cotton flannel patches in bulk and trimming them to the perfect size from 22 to 45 3" works for me . I also had to pound a patch out of a barrel , I can tell you it will only happen once.

Chris
 
My best fit is a 22 jag with a 1 3/4” sq patch for 6mm. I use the same patch with a 243 jag for 6.5mm and a 2” round on a 30cal jag for 308. I use bore tech or dewey aluminum pierce type jags
 
I tried using a 270 jag for my 308 but found ordering the 3" square 45 cotton flannel patches in bulk and trimming them to the perfect size from 22 to 45 3" works for me . I also had to pound a patch out of a barrel , I can tell you it will only happen once.

Chris
Hello Chris, How have you been ?
 
For my .308 I use a 1 3/4 inch square patch on a delrin spear tip jag to clear out the powder fouling then swap over to a parker hale jag with 2 inch square patches to get at the harder deposits particularly in the grooves. I agree with the comments about different solvents and different patch sizes and the need to understand the various combinations in order to get the best fit....and also removing the PH when it exits the muzzle. Don't want those serrations anywhere near the crown. But overall I try and get some solvent in the bore pretty soon after a day's shooting before the carbon has chance to harden. Bit like comparing washing the spaghetti sauce off the plates after a meal versus doing it the next day.....as I read years ago in one of Jim Owens books.
 
rebs
Hanging in there under these crazy times , haven't shot much outdoors do to the virus , our ranges opened up a month ago , shooting more 45acp then 308 this year , found a nice IWB holster for my 3" 1911 carry from Kusiak leather , the old fashion model in med. brown check them out if your in the market. Hope all is well . I'm off the firing line.

Chris
 
Martin52
I run a few patches with Ballistol after shooting at the bench , makes cleaning by the time I get home pretty fast . My rifle has almost zero copper mostly carbon. That doesn't take long . KG-1 is great for removing carbon followed by good old reliable #9 . Ballistol is my favorite but you have to remove it all from your barrel unless your looking for a shotgun group.

Chris
 
Dusty
How's it going ? Finding the right patch for your barrel is safer then going with the suggested patch and forcing through . Similar to a stuck case in your press , not a good day . Hope things are going well.

Chris
 
Dusty
How's it going ? Finding the right patch for your barrel is safer then going with the suggested patch and forcing through . Similar to a stuck case in your press , not a good day . Hope things are going well.

Chris
Goin good chris. I have a lot of different sizes of proshot patches and on a caliber im not sure of i always sneak up on it- start small.
As far as removing the jag so the ribs dont hit the crown- give that a try sometime. I bet you cant make it hit. Taking a jag off at the end of the barrel is crazy. I put mine on with nocking pliers so thats not an easy task.
 
My wrap on patch never clears the muzzle. Its then pulled back to the chamber.
Not a recommended method, but works for me.
 
Guys on my 308 I have a muzzle break , the first few passes I do remove the PH jag to get most of the carbon out , after that I install a small aluminum rod that fits through the break not allowing the jag to exit the crown and I also go up and down the barrel until clean then the last patch with Ballistol completely through the barrel removing the jag. Cleaning the rod is also a good practice , it gets pretty grimy to. It's nice talking to my old friends on this forum. Be Well Guys.

Chris
 
I would really like to find Parker-Hale style jags that fit US rods and are made of material that didn't react with copper remover. Plastic would be OK. I just think the PH design works best.
 
"where can I find them, the one on Midway USA says it is brass"

I buy direct from Dewey, contact info is on their website, Dewey Manufacturing. Quick shipping and well packaged rods. Never had one damaged in transit.
 

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