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Cleaning brass ideas

safarihunter

Silver $$ Contributor
When I ger home from the range one of the tasks I start is cleaning the necks of my brass from the soot and residue.

I have been using steel wool 0000. That way I can keep my brass segregated by # of reloads.

I have been using this for over 40 years. Is there any other way that might be easier for cleaning the necks?

Beyond this, I have vibrating tumblers for corn or walnut and drums for wet solutions with pins.

I don't want to dump them all together.

I'm not too old to learn new tricks.
 
When I ger home from the range one of the tasks I start is cleaning the necks of my brass from the soot and residue.

I have been using steel wool 0000. That way I can keep my brass segregated by # of reloads.

I have been using this for over 40 years. Is there any other way that might be easier for cleaning the necks?

Beyond this, I have vibrating tumblers for corn or walnut and drums for wet solutions with pins.

I don't want to dump them all together.

I'm not too old to learn new tricks.
I have found that just having a paper towel handy and wiping the neck and shoulders after firing while the brass is still warm to be quite effective, I definitely would not be using steel wool as that is a contaminant that just should not be in your loaded ammo as residue.
Saying that, I clean {wet + SS pins} and anneal @ time so it is not an issue but for sure when the brass is still warm it is easy to wipe the soot off rather than later having to scrub it off.
I would recommend that you consider using a nylon scrubber. They come in various grades and the green ones that are common are quite coarse so use them gently or better yet get the light grey or purple ones from a paint shop or wood working store, {used in lieu of steel wool in wood finishing to avoid rusting steel particles left behind}
This subject had been covered in the past here and I remember some saying that they used those “wipes” to clean the neck and shoulders. Again, right after firing while the brass is still warm.
 
A regular tumbler or vibratory tumbler with crushed corn cob or crushed walnut media has worked well for me in the forty-five + years I've been using electric-powered brass cleaners. The first fifteen years of handloading I didn't use one. Results have been the same. I guess I'm a fad follower.
 
Let me get this right ...
  • You clean necks with steel wool
  • That (somehow) helps you track the number of firings (???)
  • You want an easier way to clean necks
  • You've got tons of tools that are made to clean brass
  • You want to use them, but you don't.
  • You can learn new tricks, but you haven't.
Um ... I'm confused. What are you asking for help with? Not (intentionally) being a smart-ass ... just reading this and asking myself what problem you're trying to solve, that you don't already know how to solve.

I use a wet tumbler, NO steel pins, and those little cleaning baggies from Frankford Arsenal ... works great. Oh ... I also brush the inside of the necks as part of my post-sizing Chamfer, Deburr, Brush step, and before I lube the inside of the neck with NeoLube #2 to get ready for my Mandrel step. That's how I roll ... works great for me. I hope that helps.
 
I been using the 0000-steel wool method forever, but I do not use it to keep by cases segregated by load #.

Each group of 20 cases has a MTM box container dedicated to a specific rifle. When all the cases are fired, I set them aside until I have time to clean them. When I have the time or feel like doing it or need them, I simply give each necks a few twists of steel wool, set them on a shop rag, spray them with mineral spirits, then wipe them clean with a shot rag. I can do 20 cases in a few minutes. They come clean, ready to load and their identity is never lost.

Using this method I do not need a tumbler or media. My cases are ready to go whenever I need them. I do not have to wait until I have enough cases to justify running a tumbler. Also, tumbler media if not removed, leaves a residue which will gum up your dies and shell holders. Since I had to wipe them anyway after tumbling, I said to self - why in the world are you using a tumbler? It's too difficult to manage my cases and it creates an unnecessary step and equipment. So, when said tumbler died, I started using the aforementioned method and have been happy as a clam*.

So, why learn a new trick when the existing one works? ;)

[Can clams actually be happy?]
 
I been using the 0000-steel wool method forever, but I do not use it to keep by cases segregated by load #.

Each group of 20 cases has a MTM box container dedicated to a specific rifle. When all the cases are fired, I set them aside until I have time to clean them. When I have the time or feel like doing it or need them, I simply give each necks a few twists of steel wool, set them on a shop rag, spray them with mineral spirits, then wipe them clean with a shot rag. I can do 20 cases in a few minutes. They come clean, ready to load and their identity is never lost.

Using this method I do not need a tumbler or media. My cases are ready to go whenever I need them. I do not have to wait until I have enough cases to justify running a tumbler. Also, tumbler media if not removed, leaves a residue which will gum up your dies and shell holders. Since I had to wipe them anyway after tumbling, I said to self - why in the world are you using a tumbler? It's too difficult to manage my cases and it creates an unnecessary step and equipment. So, when said tumbler died, I started using the aforementioned method and have been happy as a clam*.

So, why learn a new trick when the existing one works? ;)

[Can clams actually be happy?]
That’s interesting on the media leaving that much residue. I cut up two used dryer sheets into strips and put them in with the brass and haven’t noticed this problem. I do roll them across my jeans leg after I knock the media out.
 
Unscented baby wipes (cotton clothe with alcohol)

It is so simple … after you have shot your group grab the cases and spin their neck and shoulders around a wet wipe. Takes 2-3 seconds and majority of any residue is gone. With the cases fresh out of the chamber warm to hot) then everything wipes off easily with 100% clean.
 
For the last year or so I have been cleaning brass at the range using a 3" patch and a small amount of bore cleaner (currently using Hoppes #9). I typically shoot 5 rounds in about 5 minutes, then while letting the barrel cool, I wipe the necks and deprime cases using a Harvey's Deprimer. Gives me a chance to examine the case, and saves a ton of time once I get home as the brass is ready for further processing. It's been a long time since I felt the need to do any tumbling at home.
 
I've been using steel wool on case necks almost forever. Nothing works better for me once I actually get to the brass again. I don't clean rifles or brass at the range.

I've never heard of steel wool contamination, but I tumble in corn cob before reloading so that wouldn't be an issue anyway.
 
When I ger home from the range one of the tasks I start is cleaning the necks of my brass from the soot and residue.

I have been using steel wool 0000. That way I can keep my brass segregated by # of reloads.

I have been using this for over 40 years. Is there any other way that might be easier for cleaning the necks?

Beyond this, I have vibrating tumblers for corn or walnut and drums for wet solutions with pins.

I don't want to dump them all together.

I'm not too old to learn new tricks.
Pick up a can of Never Dull wadding polish, a quick twist with a small tuft of this stuff will clean all the soot and carbon off of your case necks.
 
That’s interesting on the media leaving that much residue. I cut up two used dryer sheets into strips and put them in with the brass and haven’t noticed this problem. I do roll them across my jeans leg after I knock the media out.
I was also surprised but the Imperial Sizing Wax which I use (sparely as instructed), mixed with the media residue (Lyman corn cob) and formed a thin mud like substance layer. Over time it migrated to the shell holders. When I discovered this, I wiped the cases with a shop rag which significantly reduced the problem but added another step. I also used a stiff nylon type toothbrush to clean the recesses of the shell holders which, if left un-cleaned, could affect the case alignment seating in the shell holder. This also added another step.

So, when the tumbler finally died, I decided to try an experiment. I cleaned the necks with 0000 steel wool which I always did even when I tumbled. Then I laid the case flat on a shop rag (towel underneath) and lightly sprayed them with mineral spirits. Let wiped then off with a clean shop rag (Scott). Cases were clean, no residue and it took very little time to do them.

My dies and shell holder showed improvement right away and are pristine clean now. I do run a dry nylon bottle brush through my F/L dies after each reloading session just to prevent any lube build up. This works terrific with just three passes. My sizing operations are smoother. Wish I had discovered this years ago. I eliminated a piece of equipment (tumbler), a consumable (media) and best of all, the time needed to clean the cases in a tumbler. Now I can have a group ready in minutes. :) :) :) A side benefit is that I do not get the corn cob stuff in my slippers which no matter how careful I was transferring the case to a sieve, I always go that stuff in my table and in my shoes. I real pain in the foot. :(

This is the irony of ironies, you figure all this stuff out at the end of your shooting avocation, but such is life. Too bad we are not born smart and grow stupid instead we start stupid and grow smart when your too old to take full advantage it. :(:(:rolleyes:
 
When I ger home from the range one of the tasks I start is cleaning the necks of my brass from the soot and residue.

I have been using steel wool 0000. That way I can keep my brass segregated by # of reloads.

I have been using this for over 40 years. Is there any other way that might be easier for cleaning the necks?

Beyond this, I have vibrating tumblers for corn or walnut and drums for wet solutions with pins.

I don't want to dump them all together.

I'm not too old to learn new tricks.
I do the same thing you do, at least as far as the steel wool and keeping the brass segregated by number of times fired.

I use a Sharpie to mark the number of times fired on each case, plus the batch number of the load.

My routine is.. deprime, clean primer pockets, and anneal. Once it's cooled off, I give it a quick rub with steel wool, then put a fresh "times fired" number on the body of the case.
Then it gets re-sized, wiped with a clean cloth to get the lube off (I use Lee paste lube), trimmed if need be, and goes in a clear ziploc bag with others of the same brand and vintage.

The Sharpie stands up well to the sizing process, it's there til the steel wool part of the prep cycle gets repeated.

I used to use an ultrasonic cleaner with hot water, Dawn, and a bit of Lemishine. The Sharpie withstood that too, although it was faint at times.

I stopped using the ultrasonic a year or so ago, having to dry the brass was more of a pain in the ass than it was worth for an everyday brass routine. Plus, I wanted the carbon to stay on the inside of the case necks. If anything, my loads are more consistent now that I skip that step.

The ultrasonic still gets used for range pick-up brass on rare occasions that I want to save it for re-use.
 
Pick up a can of Never Dull wadding polish, a quick twist with a small tuft of this stuff will clean all the soot and carbon off of your case necks.
I chuck brass in a cheap lee 3 jaw chuck .put never dull in hand wrapped on brass.dont think I'll try anything else
 

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