Cleaning before annealing

[ELR LVR]

I keep a little drip bottle of acetone nearby,
Alcohol is fine to clean before annealing too
I clean them only so I dont bake on any kind of stain to the surface so I can better see how far I've annealed down the case.
Whatever works, go for it

 

[jwv2001]

Clean then anneal.

I'm with LVLAaron. I handload, the only thing I reload is the case. All my components are new. I'm a stickler on inspecting my cases, inside and out. The easiest way to do that is to start with a like new case.
I use the Accurate Shooter. com method, using an ultra sonic case cleaner to get my cases absolutely clean. I dry them in a vibratory tumbler with corn cob media. Then I go over my cases with a fine tooth comb. When I'm done, I'm ready to anneal.
Here is a photo of 20 Tac brass made from .223 range brass. 1st pic is cleaned, 2nd is annealed. Notice the inside of the primer pockets. When I say clean, I mean perfectly clean. Like New.

 

[Mark611]

I'm with LVL and jwv, I de prime wet tumble anneal body size then neck size with a LCD my 2ct.

 

[JMayo]

Bag of unscented baby wipes work great for wiping off cases at the bench.

Humm, i may try this. I don't really like Getting #9 on my hands so much. One guy uses ballistol , it's easier on hands

 

[JEFFPPC]

I am curious why the primer removal before annealing? Seems like an added step to me ,but wondering.

 

[Oso]

I think for some it is a precaution just in case there is a live primer. For others it is just their order of operations.

I remove primers as my first step so that after annealing I can then toss the cases directly into tumbler without any additional steps. Also, I decap before annealing just in case there is a primed case that accidentally got mixed in (freak occurrence…really loud). I like keeping the dirt and mess away from my reloading press so I bought a Hornady APP to use as dedicated decapping station for both relatively clean to downright filthy cases.

 

[jwv2001]

I am curious why the primer removal before annealing? Seems like an added step to me ,but wondering.

JEFF-- The primary reason I anneal at all is to relieve the work hardening on the neck of the case. I size/deprime the case prior to cleaning and annealing. The reason I do this is because I don't want to induce any work hardening on the neck immediately after I anneal it. I'm creating a "like new" case that's ready to be loaded.

 

[Straightshooter1]

JEFF-- The primary reason I anneal at all is to relieve the work hardening on the neck of the case. I size/deprime the case prior to cleaning and annealing. The reason I do this is because I don't want to induce any work hardening on the neck immediately after I anneal it. I'm creating a "like new" case that's ready to be loaded.

Hmmm??? So, you "size/deprime" a dirty case that's been fired, then clean and anneal?

I would think one would want to do a cleaning before sizing as well???

Or your cases don't get dirty after firing???

 

[Chris Edmondson]

I've found if I remove the carbon from the outside of the necks with either 0000 steel wool, or wipe with ThorroClean, and clean the inside with a quick nylon brush stroke, there's less tendency for the induction annealer to "bake" the carbon into the necks.

 

[DLT]

I guess I’m different, I anneal then tumble then size. My brass doesn’t hit the dirt though

 

[jwv2001]

Hmmm??? So, you "size/deprime" a dirty case that's been fired, then clean and anneal?

I would think one would want to do a cleaning before sizing as well???

Or your cases don't get dirty after firing???

Your last question first. No, my cases don't get "dirty" after firing. I'm not shooting in a mudhole. 2nd question: No need. 1st question: The reason I clean before annealing is to remove any lube. It allows me to thoroughly inspect my cases.
The last thing Lapua or any manufacturer does before putting the brass in the box is to clean and anneal. That's what I do.

 

[JEFFPPC]

Since I asked a question I will give my version, lol. Clean fired outer neck, anneal, clean case with Scotchbrite, lube, size, wipe,clean, check case length, trim if needed, clean pockets and flash hole, lightly chamfer inside of case mouth, clean neck interior with nylon brush, prime, drop powder, install bullet, check B to O.

 

[Clancy]

Anneal, size, clean.

If you’re not cleaning after annealing, I think you’re negating a lot of the benefits of annealing. I’d say all of them except the case life.

If you’re one of those guys that can’t or doesn’t take care of their brass, then I’d:

Clean, anneal, size, clean.

I should add that the first thing I do no matter what is decap and clean pockets.

 

[CJ6]

Deprime (universal deprimer), size, tumble (corncob to remove die lube), sonic clean, anneal.

 

[JMayo]

Since I asked a question I will give my version, lol. Clean fired outer neck, anneal, clean case with Scotchbrite, lube, size, wipe,clean, check case length, trim if needed, clean pockets and flash hole, lightly chamfer inside of case mouth, clean neck interior with nylon brush, prime, drop powder, install bullet, check B to O.

Pretty much how everyone i know does.
There is some really "different" ideas going on here !

 

[TxBowHunter409]

Bag of unscented baby wipes work great for wiping off cases at the bench.

Hadn't thought of something as simple as baby wipes. Good idea

 

[TxBowHunter409]

Clean the neck & outside while at the bench with towelet and some kind of cleaner.
Count then anneal at home
I do not like running dirty brass into my bushings.

Sizing, mandrel, powder and seating are my last steps. Keeping my dies cleaned is hard enough without running dirty brass through them.

 

[TxBowHunter409]

"Baking the carbon on the neck of the brass during the annealing process" isn't really any kind of big deal when wet tumbling. The wet tumbling as you do with LemiShine and Dawn takes care of that "backed on carbon" really well with only a short time of tumbling. This picture is of brass that I got had a little bit of ball powder clinging to the interior and I annealed them where the neck turned red for ~1.5 seconds and they were baked pretty dark on the outside and that powder burned during the annealing process. Since there was some of that powder on the inside, I used some SS pins (which I normally don't do whenever I wet tumble) and tumbled this brass for 25 min. They turned out pretty nice. . . don't you think?
View attachment 1672951

My normal case prep is as follows:
*Deprime
*Clean primer pockets (pockets have been uniformed and cleaning with same uniformer)
*Anneal (flame heat to red glow for between 1and 2 seconds on an Annealeez machine)
*Clean necks on outside using steel wool to remove annealing oxidation layer
*FL size (non-bushing die with no expander ball) using Imperial Sizing Die Wax; case dwells in die for ~ 4-5 seconds while I lube the next case to be sized
*Spot check for signs of any body stretching/case head separation using bent paper clip
*Dry Tumble to remove lube with medium grain rice for my media
*Remove media from interior of case, checking for any flash hole obstructions
*Mandrel neck to desired size
*3 way trim to desired length

This is what my brass looks like up to the point of the process before removing media:
View attachment 1672953

We're very similar in methods, except I wet tumble now instead of dry. Haven't thought of using a fine steel wool on the case necks though. Might try that. And I full length size using Forester full length bushing dies with no expander ball in a Forster Co-Ax press. Seating is done with a K&M Arbor Press using LE Wilson inline seating dies. And I use the same ~4-5 second dwell time when sizing. Only thing I really don't do is the paperclip trick to check for case head separation. Out of the thousands of rounds, I've only had one case ever that had a partial separation. And trimming is only something I do when needed.

 

[JEFFPPC]

Pretty much how everyone i know does.
There is some really "different" ideas going on here !

Ha ha, that's an under statement.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

The cheap steel wool is bad for cleaning necks, there will be wool residue in the case. (Run a magnet on a few to see)