Cleaning Barrel
- Thread starter MaxOwner
- Start date
Keith Glasscock
Gold $$ Contributor
Everyone has a little different method. I think that is because we all have barrels with different personalities.
Here is what I do:
I shoot at least 50, but not more than 120 rounds between cleanings.
I start with Boretech's C4 carbon cleaner - Why? Because I have it here! I've used worse, but the difference isn't drastic.
I give it a few wet patches and then a little brushing with a nylon brush. If I'm not satisfied that I've gotten all of the powder fouling out, I give it a few swipes with a worn bronze brush, but I use it sparingly.
After getting all of the C4 out, I use KG-12 to remove any copper. Why? It works, and I'm lazy! I apply it with a worn nylon brush and give her a few strokes (be careful about going across the crown backwards - I've never created a problem for myself, but it only takes dorking one crown to ruin the fun). I finish with several dry patches and flush it out.
If I'm not certain I've gotten all of the copper, I use a quick couple of patches with Boretech's CU+2. Why? It turns blue if it encounters copper and I don't have a borescope yet. I dry it out and patch some Kroil through it. I don't know what Kroil does, but it sure makes the clean, cold bore shot more consistent in my barrel.
One last thing, I recently added a JB bore paste stage done every 300 or so rounds. 1 patch of it with Kroil. I use it specifically to get any hard carbon deposits that might exist - see comment above about borescope. If the patch comes out the same color it went in after several strokes, I figure I'm pretty clean.
Just remember to re-clean the barrel after the bore paste to get it all out. I use carbon cleaner and a nylon brush followed with Kroil.
Everyone else will have a different method. So long as you don't hurt the barrel, and it comes clean, it really doesn't matter how you do it. With my method, I go from filthy to bare metal in less than 30 minutes.
I've heard great things about wipeout with the accelerator. I've never used it though
Here is what I do:
I shoot at least 50, but not more than 120 rounds between cleanings.
I start with Boretech's C4 carbon cleaner - Why? Because I have it here! I've used worse, but the difference isn't drastic.
I give it a few wet patches and then a little brushing with a nylon brush. If I'm not satisfied that I've gotten all of the powder fouling out, I give it a few swipes with a worn bronze brush, but I use it sparingly.
After getting all of the C4 out, I use KG-12 to remove any copper. Why? It works, and I'm lazy! I apply it with a worn nylon brush and give her a few strokes (be careful about going across the crown backwards - I've never created a problem for myself, but it only takes dorking one crown to ruin the fun). I finish with several dry patches and flush it out.
If I'm not certain I've gotten all of the copper, I use a quick couple of patches with Boretech's CU+2. Why? It turns blue if it encounters copper and I don't have a borescope yet. I dry it out and patch some Kroil through it. I don't know what Kroil does, but it sure makes the clean, cold bore shot more consistent in my barrel.
One last thing, I recently added a JB bore paste stage done every 300 or so rounds. 1 patch of it with Kroil. I use it specifically to get any hard carbon deposits that might exist - see comment above about borescope. If the patch comes out the same color it went in after several strokes, I figure I'm pretty clean.
Just remember to re-clean the barrel after the bore paste to get it all out. I use carbon cleaner and a nylon brush followed with Kroil.
Everyone else will have a different method. So long as you don't hurt the barrel, and it comes clean, it really doesn't matter how you do it. With my method, I go from filthy to bare metal in less than 30 minutes.
I've heard great things about wipeout with the accelerator. I've never used it though
MaxOwner said:
The real serious short-range BR accuracy shooters [the ones trying to put bullet after bullet through the same hole] follow this regime or one similar, provided by, none other than, Benchrest Hall of Fame member Thomas [Speedy] Gonzalez: http://benchrest.netfirms.com/Barrel%20Break-In.htm
As an added bonus, he also throws in break-in procedures.
Note: Speedy is no longer in Texas. He's teaching buding gunsmiths in Colorado.
If you go to a benchrest match and watch as the shooters clean you will see the same thing over and over. Majority of all Bench rest shooters use a bore guide, and a good one piece cleaning rod, after that there is a slight change in opionions.
Majority of them push 2 wet patchs (Usualy Butches Bore shine.) then use a bronze brush and push it for 10 strokes, pushing it out past the muzzel and then bringing it back in. They then spray the brush off with carb cleaner. The patch out the dirt. Then they may run a patch of oil or coliadial graphite. They will then remove the bore guide , and use chamber cleaning tools, and clean the chamber. They then wipe the muzzel off, and wipe the greese off the bolt and re-apply grease to the bolt.
Some will argue, that they would never use a bronze brush, and some would argue that they would never draw a bush back into the bore over the crown. Some people claim they can get there gun clean only using patches, and some claim that forming bore cleaners are where it is at. The above method is just an observation of what about 90% of bench rest shooters do.
Majority of them push 2 wet patchs (Usualy Butches Bore shine.) then use a bronze brush and push it for 10 strokes, pushing it out past the muzzel and then bringing it back in. They then spray the brush off with carb cleaner. The patch out the dirt. Then they may run a patch of oil or coliadial graphite. They will then remove the bore guide , and use chamber cleaning tools, and clean the chamber. They then wipe the muzzel off, and wipe the greese off the bolt and re-apply grease to the bolt.
Some will argue, that they would never use a bronze brush, and some would argue that they would never draw a bush back into the bore over the crown. Some people claim they can get there gun clean only using patches, and some claim that forming bore cleaners are where it is at. The above method is just an observation of what about 90% of bench rest shooters do.
nosualc
Silver $$ Contributor
Buy a borescope. Figure out what works for you, and your barrel(s). No more guessing.
Yes, I know they're expensive. The time it will save you will make it pay for itself in no time. Or go in with a couple of shooting buddies.
I used to be a heavy solvent, brass brush, elbow grease guy, but I changed my cleaning regime 100% after getting one. You will too.
On a ROUGH (you wouldn't believe how rough) barreled savage f-class I do this:
Use a boreguide and a 1 piece coated cleaning rod (mandatory).
Two wet patches with C4, a couple of strokes with a nylon brush, two wet patches with rubbing alcohol, one dry patch.
Fill your barrel with WipeOut foam. Let it sit overnight.
Another squirt of WipeOut. A few strokes with a nylon brush. Two wet patches with rubbing alcohol, one dry patch.
A patch soaked with Darrel Holland's "Witches Brew Barrel Break In" goo, followed by a couple of dry patches.
A 12ga patch with rubbing alcohol for the chamber, followed by a dry one. A skosh of anti-seize on the lugs.
-nosualc
ps - woo hoo! first post!
Yes, I know they're expensive. The time it will save you will make it pay for itself in no time. Or go in with a couple of shooting buddies.
I used to be a heavy solvent, brass brush, elbow grease guy, but I changed my cleaning regime 100% after getting one. You will too.
On a ROUGH (you wouldn't believe how rough) barreled savage f-class I do this:
Use a boreguide and a 1 piece coated cleaning rod (mandatory).
Two wet patches with C4, a couple of strokes with a nylon brush, two wet patches with rubbing alcohol, one dry patch.
Fill your barrel with WipeOut foam. Let it sit overnight.
Another squirt of WipeOut. A few strokes with a nylon brush. Two wet patches with rubbing alcohol, one dry patch.
A patch soaked with Darrel Holland's "Witches Brew Barrel Break In" goo, followed by a couple of dry patches.
A 12ga patch with rubbing alcohol for the chamber, followed by a dry one. A skosh of anti-seize on the lugs.
-nosualc
ps - woo hoo! first post!
Don't know if I'm a serious accuracy guy or not but once I found KG products my life became a lot easier and my barrels a lot cleaner. Carbon Killer and ten strokes of a brass brush, I'm a one way kinda guy because it makes sense to me. Copper Killer, with a little dwell in between, until patches come clean. Every couple of cleanings 5 patches, 10 passes by inverting patch and running again, Bore Polish. Run patches with Kroil to remove remaining polish, finish up by patching chamber then a final dry patch down the bore. The polish and the Kroil really help with the first "clean bore" shot. The woodchucks hate it! 
Forum Boss
Administrator
Different barrels (and even different powders/bullets) require different cleaning regimens. At one extreme you have my PacNor 3-Groove. 750 rounds -- never seen a brush, not even nylon. Shoots in the high ones low 2s with FB bullets (just like it did new). My cleaning regime is 3-4 soaking wet patches (Butches or CarbOut) to get the loose soot out. Then a flush with WipeOut foam. I let the foam sit for about 30-40 minutes allowing the bubbles to dissipate. Then I re-apply the Wipe-Out, plug the muzzle, put the rifle in a case and drive home. Three hours after I leave the range I patch out the Wipe-Out with dry patches, and dry any excess out of the chamber. Gun goes in safe 'til next outing. If I know the gun won't shoot for months I'll run a couple wet patches with Eezox through the bore.
Some barrels will need brushing. I do recommend you remove bronze brushes after the "out" pass, clean off the brush with solvent, then re-attach and run it back through. Without wanting to start an argument, I have seen very compelling first hand evidence of crown degradation caused by aggressive brushing. If you don't care about that and don't mind "freshening up" your crown every few hundred rounds, "sawing" the brush back and forth will remove fouling faster. The few seconds it takes to remove the brush and clean it off is well worth it, IMHO.
Some barrels will need brushing. I do recommend you remove bronze brushes after the "out" pass, clean off the brush with solvent, then re-attach and run it back through. Without wanting to start an argument, I have seen very compelling first hand evidence of crown degradation caused by aggressive brushing. If you don't care about that and don't mind "freshening up" your crown every few hundred rounds, "sawing" the brush back and forth will remove fouling faster. The few seconds it takes to remove the brush and clean it off is well worth it, IMHO.
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