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Cleaning a Farley?

21PHX

21PHX

Gold $$ Contributor
Does anyone have any instructions on the disassembly and cleaning of a Farley II rest. It seems I heard of some horror stories a few years ago.
Or, does anyone know of someone offering cleaning services on them. I want to make sure it’s right before I offer it for sale.
 

Farley Rest Help Request

I will use it with my new rifle in .284 Tony at the F-class italian open 2024 at 800 yds. I’m coming from .308w at 600yds using bipod. It is another kind of shooting…completely different at the moment. Enclosed last saturday group at 300m (5shots) with my old 308w using my new Farley rest.
forum.accurateshooter.com


Do a search- there’s photos-
Of what & not too. Do
 
Gabe22BR said:

Farley Rest Help Request

I will use it with my new rifle in .284 Tony at the F-class italian open 2024 at 800 yds. I’m coming from .308w at 600yds using bipod. It is another kind of shooting…completely different at the moment. Enclosed last saturday group at 300m (5shots) with my old 308w using my new Farley rest.
forum.accurateshooter.com


Do a search- there’s photos-
Of what & not too. Do
Click to expand...
You sir are one horrible person, how dare you suggest he do his own research, Your supposed to look up exactly what he needs give him links to it all, and then drive to his house and show him how to do it. At least that's what several members told me about plastic powder bottles. you know who you are.
 
There’s how to on tearing it apart w/pic on this thread…..
I used super lube-

It doesn’t dry out like graphite grease.. over time..(Seb) recommends it…
 
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majohnson- a member here rebuilt mine. He found the bottom plate was warped which caused the problem. I never would have found that if I had just tried to service it myself. I only had to send the coaxial top itself which was not a big problem for shipping. Mark was very fair in the repair costs as he had to machine a new plate himself.
 
Last edited:
LHSmith said:
majohnson- a member here rebuilt mine. He found the bottom plate was warped which caused the problem. I never would have found that if I had just tried to service it myself.
Click to expand...
The rear sliding plate slides in the bottom plate to allow the top to raise evenly. In the olden days I had the bottom plates hard anodized. I have mentioned before that I put either UHMW or Teflon tape on the front sliding plate where it rubs on the front housing.
Also you can bore 2 vertical holes in the front sliding plate and make a delrin pin to slide in the hole, put a spring on top of the pin and then it is captured by the bag top. This provides lift without using very much tension on the ball plunger tension screws. Of course the Shadetree Engineering tension screws makes a huge difference over the Farley ball plungers.
 
Gabe22BR said:

Farley Rest Help Request

I will use it with my new rifle in .284 Tony at the F-class italian open 2024 at 800 yds. I’m coming from .308w at 600yds using bipod. It is another kind of shooting…completely different at the moment. Enclosed last saturday group at 300m (5shots) with my old 308w using my new Farley rest.
forum.accurateshooter.com


Do a search- there’s photos-
Of what & not too. Do
Click to expand...
I found that thread through some earlier research but did not see where it showed any cleaning steps or caution. Perhaps I missed them, could you enlighten me?
 
21PHX said:
I found that thread through some earlier research but did not see where it showed any cleaning steps or caution. Perhaps I missed them, could you enlighten me?
Click to expand...
Take bags out
Take the whole top off the post
Take top bag/ rest top off
Take tension screws out ( order new ones from Butchlambert)
Drive shaft w/ bearing out
Clean out old dirt/ dry grease
Polish rails
Apply uhmw tape to fron plate where tension screws push against
Apply grease here also
Drive shift-bearing back in
Install top
Install bags

If you have not attempted to try any of this this - send it to Mark Johnson he’s here on fourm-

There is pictures,videos that show ya how to do all of this, ya gotta search for it- Google, YT, even on here…


Gabe
 
Why not remove the bottom plate? I find that a lot of issue caused by the lower plate. They are poorly made by Farley. The plate can cause stiffness, or jerky feeling as you go L and R. Even though you purchase precision ground stock doesn’t mean it going to be perfectly flat.

I ordered a 36” piece of precision ground rectangle bar from a well know mfg. Even after grinding .002” it still has a low spot in the middle. It why I regrind all my lower steel plates on both sides, it eliminates any high spots that drag on the bottom side of the groove.

Farley grinds the top face to a spec and how it fits into the tension plate or horizontal plate is how is how it fits. Rest have come in tight enough it difficult to move the joystick in a specific direction. Yet Farley push it out the door.
 

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majohnson said:
Why not remove the bottom plate? I find that a lot of issue caused by the lower plate. They are poorly made by Farley. The plate can cause stiffness, or jerky feeling as you go L and R. Even though you purchase precision ground stock doesn’t mean it going to be perfectly flat.

I ordered a 36” piece of precision ground rectangle bar from a well know mfg. Even after grinding .002” it still has a low spot in the middle. It why I regrind all my lower steel plates on both sides, it eliminates any high spots that drag on the bottom side of the groove.

Farley grinds the top face to a spec and how it fits into the tension plate or horizontal plate is how is how it fits. Rest have come in tight enough it difficult to move the joystick in a specific direction. Yet Farley push it out the door.
Click to expand...
Because hes just cleaning and relubing. No need to remove the plate.
 
When I tested different greases the moly graph was slickest in the Farley. It beat out much more expensive stuff. I played with uhmv tape and teflon stock tape on the main plate and housing. I ended up taking it off. The rest was best without it. The way I tested was to degrease and re assemble with different greases with and without tape. I only cared about small movements without the rest having any stickyness. Thats why I settled on the moly graph. It allowed very small adjustments smoothly. Theres probably better grease yet, I just didnt test it. I do remember a few of the others I tried. Mobil one, tw25b, brownells moly paste, neco moly paste, super lube, and some of the bolt lug greases I had at the time.
 
These rests do not need a hammer to come apart. Someone beat this shaft trying to get it apart.
 

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