Checkering a laminate stock??

[Daddycaddie67]

I recently started to fall down the checkering rabbit hole and am wondering because of the laminate layers would it hold up to being checkered? Should I look for laminates stock to practice on or just stay w walnut? E

 

[Kurz]

From Sherry Abraham, notes Master Checker:



(The layers of wood an glue can really tear up the tools quickly)

This combination is rough on sharp tooling so they do get dull more quickly, lessening the quality of you work. Practice and observe,

 

[clowdis]

^^^^^^^^^^ Not sure you would be happy with the finished product.

 

[shortgrass]

I would suspect that those lower cost laminates would be a real PIA! Crappy wood and crappy glue.....

 

[Bc'z]

Maybe try stippling

 

[JMA]

I would suspect that those lower cost laminates would be a real PIA! Crappy wood and crappy glue.....

quality of the wood would be a real issue some of the oem [ruger and savage in particular] laminates I've seen are made from really soft wood

 

[CubCouper]

Checkered laminates from the factories are usually laser engraved. I know a local laser guy who was doing that work for Thompson Center. When *properly* cleaned up, it can look pretty good, but most laser checkering leaves that old 70's stamped checkering vibe in mu gullet.

 

[Will Henry]

I have checkered a few and find the biggest problem to be the softness of some of the wood layers and the variability of same. I agree with Sherry Abrams that 20lpi is as fine as one should even try on this. Not that my agreement means much; she has probably checkered more stocks than I have seen.
By the way, the laminated birch stocks, which are so common nowadays, are not the same as the old maple/walnut stocks as sold by Fajen. On those stock the wood was much better, but the glue joints still created problems. WH

 

[SMITTY33]

From Sherry Abraham, notes Master Checker:

View attachment 1652065

(The layers of wood an glue can really tear up the tools quickly)

This combination is rough on sharp tooling so they do get dull more quickly, lessening the quality of you work. Practice and observe,

I have laminate stocks on 10+ custom rifles and love them. Sherry has done several thunbhold hunting stocks for me over the last 20 years and they all still look fantastic with no problems. She does amazing work !!

 

[Daddycaddie67]

I have not heard of Sherry Abraham, I’ll have to do some research on her. I found some 3”x3” X12” square pieces of walnut to practice on.
Also I buy cheap fore ends and stocks off of eBay. Occasionally I’ve seen some cheap laminated stocks but did t know if it was worth it.
Thanks for the info fellas, please feel free to keep the suggestion’s coming. E

 

[SMITTY33]

I have not heard of Sherry Abraham, I’ll have to do some research on her. I found some 3”x3” X12” square pieces of walnut to practice on.
Also I buy cheap fore ends and stocks off of eBay. Occasionally I’ve seen some cheap laminated stocks but did t know if it was worth it.
Thanks for the info fellas, please feel free to keep the suggestion’s coming. E

Sherry has a whole section on her site and recomends tools and books to train on Checkering.
https://www.checkering.com/checkering-as-a-hobby.html

 

[Twdmar]

The problem with some laminates is typically in how the wood is cut from the tree. The wood is peeled off the logs in a circular direction in thin layers. This often leaves the wood fibers torn, look at un-veneered plywood and see the wood fibers.
Those torn fibers are neither consistent or very strong, even when infused with glue and don't take checkering very well. Stippling gives so-so results as well but when a spot is hit, it's easier to hide it.
If I was dying to have a checkered laminate, I would inlay some hardwood in the shape of the checkering outline. Then I would checker it and put black dye over it (it could be done, but way too much work).

 

[Wild Bill IV]

The only true way to get nice checkering without diamond point breakage is Press Checkering!!! And, I would use heating elements, not enough to leave burn marks, but enough to heat form the glue/fiber composite!!! A high heat release oil would be required to eventually coat the press mold to avoid pulling the heat form impression!!!

 

[Kurz]

An example, not my work:




https://weatherbynation.com/index.php?topic=17385.0