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Chargemaster scale wandering

My 5 yr old Chargemaster scale isn't holding a consistent zero for some reason. It sits on an anti-static mat and I wipe it with Staticguard and am using an aftermarket power supply.

Been fine until now, always within 0.1 grain.

Any ideas on a fix - or should it be replaced?
 
I have been having the same issue with mine. I am going to replace it. Can't rely on it to hold zero and that means I can't rely on it to produce an accurate measurement.
 
I have been using one for about 10 years. I notice the first 3-5 throws show correct but are higher than the remaining. I have always attributed it to heat, even though I leave it on 24/7.

After a year or two of using it, I started double checking weights. I just dump the chargemaster throw onto a 10-10 and adjust the 1-5 kernels it needs. I like to recalibrate for each box of rounds, or if I am switching powder, etc. So, if I load 200 rounds of 6BR, it gets calibrated at least twice. More of Ibstart to see a trend to drop loads high or low. Seems to work well enough for highpower.

Now, if I could just figure out consistant neck tension.......
 
I have been having the same issue with mine. I am going to replace it. Can't rely on it to hold zero and that means I can't rely on it to produce an accurate measurement.
Was thinking the same thing. However, since the CM re-zeroes itself between each charge, I decided to check some throw weights with a balance beam scale. All were within 0.1 of a grain of what they were supposed to be. So, going forward, I will simply check random throws with the balance beam scale.

If more precision and speed are needed, there's always the Auto-Trickler: https://www.autotrickler.com/auto-trickler.html
 
I have been using my ChargeMaster 1500 unit for over 15 years , called RCBS two years back with the same problem , when the said it was out of any warranty I felt what did I have to lose by removing the void labels open up the bottom and take a look . With the bottom open there were some powder grains on a circuit board they came off with a shake , didn't think it would have materedm but it has been working perfect ever since . Was ready to try the Hornady unit . My ChargeMaster is still going strong . Hoping now that I did this post it doesn't crap out on me . Anyway , Hope I helped in some way .
PS I did buy the GemPro 250 to double check for benchrest 308 . Very accurate little scale , can load to .00 of a grain

Chris
 
Chris[/QUOTE]
I have been using my ChargeMaster 1500 unit for over 15 years , called RCBS two years back with the same problem , when the said it was out of any warranty I felt what did I have to lose by removing the void labels open up the bottom and take a look . With the bottom open there were some powder grains on a circuit board they came off with a shake , didn't think it would have materedm but it has been working perfect ever since . Was ready to try the Hornady unit . My ChargeMaster is still going strong . Hoping now that I did this post it doesn't crap out on me . Anyway , Hope I helped in some way .
PS I did buy the GemPro 250 to double check for benchrest 308 . Very accurate little scale , can load to .00 of a grain

Chris
Very helpful. I followed your example and opened up the case of the scale. Found some grains of powder sitting on a portion of the load cell. Removed them with a piece of paper and reassembled the unit.

We'll see what happens....
 
Reply from RCBS a couple of years ago. I adhere exactly to their instructions:


Chuck,
We don't recommend leaving your ChargeMaster left plugged in and turned on as it leaves it susceptible to power surges. We don't specifically advise against it in our instruction manual, but better safe than sorry. Also, along the lines of keeping your ChargeMaster ready to use, do not leave powder stored in the hopper as it will adhere and etch the plastic. It sounds as though you are following the instructions correctly. Hope this helps and thanks for contacting RCBS!

RCBS Tech/AD
Please allow 2-3 weeks for processing and delivery.
Thanks for being an RCBS customer
Happy Reloading!
605 Oro Dam Blvd. E.
Oroville, CA 95965
1-800-379-1732
 
OP: Is there anything new in your reloading room that is transmitting . . . cell phone, modem, wireless phone, AV equipment, etc? Not holding a single weight is sometimes due to "noise" detected by the load cell.
 
I always follow the rules also but when the company can't help you after not having a problem after 13+ years because it's out of Warranty and it's time for a new unit . At that point I had nothing to lose , wanted to see the inside and when I did the grains that were on the board somehow caused the problem , it's working great ever since . If I can help by sharing this information , that's what we are here for .If the company said to send it in I would have . I was ready to buy the Hornady unit , doesn't have all the bells and whistles as the 1500 which I haven't used anyway .. Lucky for me those grains of IMR 4064 cleaned off the board worked .
I also now have a GemPro 250 next to the 1500 with no interferanin . I take the load from the 1500 an dump it into the pan on the 250 to fine tune my 308 benchrest rounds . Pistol is only with the 1500.
 
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OP: Is there anything new in your reloading room that is transmitting . . . cell phone, modem, wireless phone, AV equipment, etc? Not holding a single weight is sometimes due to "noise" detected by the load cell.

Florecent lights? Are they capable to run on batteries. The tiny amount of static on your hands affects settling time. They make anti static wrist straps for handling computer CPU and memory chips. It's just a wire with an alligator clamp that goes to ground on one end and the other end goes to a strap on your wrist. Should be cheap. Easy to make. It's well known that just picking up computer memory chips with your hands can ruin them from the small charge on your body.


Added later:
SOURCE: https://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-Damaging-RAM-During-Installation

Minimize the risk of electrostatic discharge. Whenever 2 things touch, there is always an exchange of electrons at the atomic level. Most of the time, this exchange is so negligible that you don't notice it, but even tiny bolts of static electricity can fry your RAM modules. In fact, any electrical component in your computer has a chance to be damaged by static electricity.

Before handling any electrical components, including RAM, always ground yourself to nullify any static charges that may have built up on you.

Avoid installing RAM or any other computer component on carpet. Carpets generate tons of static electricity very quickly and you could fry your RAM module without even knowing. If possible, work on a flat, wooden table on hardwood flooring.

Keep your body's electrical potential at the same level as your computer's while your work. You can do this by always being in contact with the computer's casing if the casing is metal.

Avoid working with RAM and internal computer components when the humidity in the room is low because static charges build up more quickly in low humidity environments. When working with the electrical components of a computer, the ideal humidity falls somewhere between 35 and 50 percent.
 
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With this scale, I assume zero should not be relied on at an extreme edge of travel (raw zero). long ago I added a weight to the tray so that zeroing occurs at a range I can picture(in my mind) as more linear.
Have never had a zeroing issue with this. I have still seen a tiny bit of wandering after taking a break/delay. But this takes way longer than normal use rate for my charging. Of course a slightest bump snaps it right back to zero.
CMmodsSM.jpg
 
My 1500 doesn't have a trickle speed adijustment , only adjustment has to be by key pads , old style I guess .
 
Reply from RCBS a couple of years ago. I adhere exactly to their instructions:


Chuck,
We don't recommend leaving your ChargeMaster left plugged in and turned on as it leaves it susceptible to power surges. We don't specifically advise against it in our instruction manual, but better safe than sorry. Also, along the lines of keeping your ChargeMaster ready to use, do not leave powder stored in the hopper as it will adhere and etch the plastic. It sounds as though you are following the instructions correctly. Hope this helps and thanks for contacting RCBS!

RCBS Tech/AD
Please allow 2-3 weeks for processing and delivery.
Thanks for being an RCBS customer
Happy Reloading!
605 Oro Dam Blvd. E.
Oroville, CA 95965
1-800-379-1732

After reading this I'm almost afraid to type this so hopefully I'm not jinxing myself but my CM has been left continually turned on for more years than I can remember and so far so good. For the first year or so I had my CM I turned it off after every use but when I'd turn it on to use it would always take at least 10 minutes to warm up, or whatever it needed to do, before it settled down and would start to weigh/work properly. The keypad would have certain keys that acted dead and wouldn't work until it had been on for a good 10 minutes.

I also have a Dillon D-Terminator dig. scale that I've had for a good ten years, it's been left turned on for years as well and never had a problem with it.

Watch, now that I've said this they'll both take a sh1t and stop working.
 
My 5 yr old Chargemaster scale isn't holding a consistent zero for some reason. It sits on an anti-static mat and I wipe it with Staticguard and am using an aftermarket power supply.

Been fine until now, always within 0.1 grain.

Any ideas on a fix - or should it be replaced?

uncle buck,
Just a suggestion/thought. I know you have your scale on an "Anti-Static Pad" but have you recently added anything within say 5 ft around your scale that emits an electronic signal of any sort. And that includes any "cycling" electric plug in device or any electrical device that you plugged into the same circuit as your RCBS unit. And that includes overhead lighting that emits a signal (ballast). My scale is on a dedicated circuit and is plugged into a good anti surge device like computers use. I found that even a "cycling" refrigerator or overheard lighting that was within 5 ft of my scale made it go wacky and wouldn't hold zero. SO I made sure everything was more than 5 ft away (up, down and around) away from the scale and she settled down and I haven't had any problems since. That was 8 yrs ago. And BTW, make sure there are no vents pumping air or ceilings fans running nearby that create a "draft" or air movement that also disturbs these sensitive units.

Just a few thing to check out. Good luck and hope the problem goes away. I know how irritating that can be and I've even sold off new electronic scales after giving them try but wouldn't hold zero no matter what I tried. Yes my RCBS was solid with the above precautions. And I do UNPLUG my scale after each use and re-zero each time after warm up procedures.

Alex
 
uncle buck,
Just a suggestion/thought. I know you have your scale on an "Anti-Static Pad" but have you recently added anything within say 5 ft around your scale that emits an electronic signal of any sort. And that includes any "cycling" electric plug in device or any electrical device that you plugged into the same circuit as your RCBS unit. And that includes overhead lighting that emits a signal (ballast). My scale is on a dedicated circuit and is plugged into a good anti surge device like computers use. I found that even a "cycling" refrigerator or overheard lighting that was within 5 ft of my scale made it go wacky and wouldn't hold zero. SO I made sure everything was more than 5 ft away (up, down and around) away from the scale and she settled down and I haven't had any problems since. That was 8 yrs ago. And BTW, make sure there are no vents pumping air or ceilings fans running nearby that create a "draft" or air movement that also disturbs these sensitive units.

Just a few thing to check out. Good luck and hope the problem goes away. I know how irritating that can be and I've even sold off new electronic scales after giving them try but wouldn't hold zero no matter what I tried. Yes my RCBS was solid with the above precautions. And I do UNPLUG my scale after each use and re-zero each time after warm up procedures.

Alex
This may help anyone having problems. I think they are called teroidal coils which you can buy from the old scale company. They are made of a ferrite metal shaped like a flattened out U , they can also be made round like a key ring. What you do is wrap the power line around the metal in a couple loops and snap the pieces together. Using two, one on each end of the power supply line going to your scale removes the effects of the interference from other electronic devices. The power line acts as an antenna and receives that noise quite well and these coils will filter it out.

Correction: Oldwillknottscales.com They are called Fair-rite RCT-2 Ferrite Bead, 6.90 each with free shipping. I used the wrong name, it's "choke", not "coil"
 
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