• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Chargemaster battery power

I've heard of people using battery power for their Chargemaster before so that they can use it away from a power source, but what about as a way to supply clean power? The reason I ask is because a uninterruptible power supply like many use is around $120, but a 12 V battery with a charger/maintainer will run less than half that. Is that a viable option? I've got a 12V 20Ah battery sitting around that I'm willing to give it a try with if someone smarter than I can verify it won't get anything in my Chargemaster
 
I occasionally load out of the back of my SUV. I use an inexpensive 12v DC to 120v AC inverter for a cigarette lighter. I've not seen any drift issues.
 
I asked this question; search this site, the guys are were all over this and helped me out pronto on this very subject.
 
I've read a fair amount on this site regarding using a battery power, but didn't know if the Ah rating would be a problem in particular. Also, I didn't see anywhere where anyone specifically addressed whether the battery provided a cleaner power.
 
I've read a fair amount on this site regarding using a battery power, but didn't know if the Ah rating would be a problem in particular. Also, I didn't see anywhere where anyone specifically addressed whether the battery provided a cleaner power.
A battery provides pure DC power, you can't get any cleaner supply than that.

When I got my CM I'd already read a lot about them here but all I did was use a ferrite toroid core I had on hand and pass the supply cord through it a few time to help catch any spike in the power that mightn't be caught in/by the wallwart.
 
I've read a fair amount on this site regarding using a battery power, but didn't know if the Ah rating would be a problem in particular. Also, I didn't see anywhere where anyone specifically addressed whether the battery provided a cleaner power.
As mentioned, dc power is clean...way cleaner than a wall wart power supply. The cm1500 is designed to operate on 9-16 volts. A 12v sealed lead acid battery works great for a power supply. Ah ratings mean nothing to the function..just to how long it will run on a charge. I used 5Ah sla batteries for the units I made and sold. The run time could be measured in weeks or months better than hours, on a cm1500. As with anything, it depends on how much you use it and how long it runs at max amp draw.

Bottom line, they work great! I don't make them any longer but still have some cables and such that may be very useful if you decide to build one yourself. Nothing to it, really. The one caveat to that is DO NOT reverse polarity for any reason...It'll kill the unit before you can blink.

For that reason, I used quick connects and color coded everything. I would recommend the same. I made them where the battery terminals only had to be disconnected if replacing the battery. They had a connector that could not be reversed in normal use.

The benefits are a smoother and more consistent power supply, isolation from lightening or other power surges and obviously, portability.

Let me know if I can be of help. Like I said, I have several necessary cables, if that will help. You just need a battery and a charger to complete one. --Mike Ezell
 
As mentioned, dc power is clean...way cleaner than a wall wart power supply. The cm1500 is designed to operate on 9-16 volts. A 12v sealed lead acid battery works great for a power supply. Ah ratings mean nothing to the function..just to how long it will run on a charge. I used 5Ah sla batteries for the units I made and sold. The run time could be measured in weeks or months better than hours, on a cm1500. As with anything, it depends on how much you use it and how long it runs at max amp draw.

Bottom line, they work great! I don't make them any longer but still have some cables and such that may be very useful if you decide to build one yourself. Nothing to it, really. The one caveat to that is DO NOT reverse polarity for any reason...It'll kill the unit before you can blink.

For that reason, I used quick connects and color coded everything. I would recommend the same. I made them where the battery terminals only had to be disconnected if replacing the battery. They had a connector that could not be reversed in normal use.

The benefits are a smoother and more consistent power supply, isolation from lightening or other power surges and obviously, portability.

Let me know if I can be of help. Like I said, I have several necessary cables, if that will help. You just need a battery and a charger to complete one. --Mike Ezell

Would love to see your cable assembly or purchase one from you. I’m currently attempting to put two sets together for my father and myself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
I occasionally load out of the back of my SUV. I use an inexpensive 12v DC to 120v AC inverter for a cigarette lighter. I've not seen any drift issues.

I'd not do that. Modified sine wave inverters are terrible for electronics. Spend a few bones on a small pure sine wave inverter.
 
What types of inverters are typically put in cars that have 120v outlets?

The ones that are built in? Likely modified sine wave. The cheap way to find out is plug something like a laptop charger into it, and charge the laptop. The wart/brick of the charger will be noticeably warmer than when you use it in your house.

Something like this is your best bet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IXOWPQM/?tag=accuratescom-20

Or just run the chargemaster on 12v DC and skip all of the inverters.

Samlex and GoPower are both inverter brands I trust based on how their internals are built and their output waveform
 
The ones that are built in? Likely modified sine wave. The cheap way to find out is plug something like a laptop charger into it, and charge the laptop. The wart/brick of the charger will be noticeably warmer than when you use it in your house.

Something like this is your best bet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IXOWPQM/?tag=accuratescom-20

Or just run the chargemaster on 12v DC and skip all of the inverters.

Samlex and GoPower are both inverter brands I trust based on how their internals are built and their output waveform
I agree and don't see the point of using an inverter, when a cigarette lighter plug or alligator clips and some chord is all you need to run it off of the car battery. Yes, it works fine to do this too.

Most inverters are a poor choice as a power supply for electronics.
 
I've heard of people using battery power for their Chargemaster before so that they can use it away from a power source, but what about as a way to supply clean power? The reason I ask is because a uninterruptible power supply like many use is around $120, but a 12 V battery with a charger/maintainer will run less than half that. Is that a viable option? I've got a 12V 20Ah battery sitting around that I'm willing to give it a try with if someone smarter than I can verify it won't get anything in my Chargemaster
Look at Amazon.com for
Stealth Cam 12V Bat box
Battery, carry case and charger are included
Correct plug for direct attachment to Chargemaster
This will last for a week of operation before recharging
Its self contained--a very good way to go in my opinion
Cost for entire unit is $43.57 +S/H
CLP
 
Look at Amazon.com for
Stealth Cam 12V Bat box
Battery, carry case and charger are included
Correct plug for direct attachment to Chargemaster
This will last for a week of operation before recharging
Its self contained--a very good way to go in my opinion
Cost for entire unit is $43.57 +S/H
CLP
Yes, there are other options as well. A carry around jumper box works and there are even some that can fit in a shirt pocket.
 
I've heard of people using battery power for their Chargemaster before so that they can use it away from a power source, but what about as a way to supply clean power? The reason I ask is because a uninterruptible power supply like many use is around $120, but a 12 V battery with a charger/maintainer will run less than half that. Is that a viable option? I've got a 12V 20Ah battery sitting around that I'm willing to give it a try with if someone smarter than I can verify it won't get anything in my Chargemaster

Running on 12 VDC the RCBS Chargemaster draws about 40 mA when just measuring and when dispensing that increases to 200 mA. So we get 0.040 Amp and 0.200 Amp the actual numbers at 12 volts were slightly lower but these numbers will suffice. The Chargemaster uses what is called a Size K DC Power Plug (Barrel Size 5.0mm OD x 2.1mm ID, They can be bought with already attached leads on Amazon. The linked connectors, with 18 AWG wire are considerable over kill for this application. Less expensive connectors can also be had on Amazon. Next a 12 volt SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) battery rated 12 Volts 8.0 Amp Hour can also be had relatively inexpensive on Amazon for under $20.00. Finally a battery maintainer / charger can also be had on Amazon, MOTOPOWER MP00205A 12V 800mA Fully Automatic Battery Charger / Maintainer for Cars, Motorcycles, ATVs, RVs, Powersports, Boat and More. Smart, Compact and Eco Friendly. Finally 0.250" battery terminal spade lugs also available on Amazon for a few bucks or any automotive supply store.

Looking at battery dimensions and the charger / maintainer everything could easily be fit into a 7.62 mm 200 round ammo can very nicely. Looking at the Chargemaster power consumption a very rough guess based on the earlier numbers is that the Chargemaster would run in excess of 32 hours in the dispense mode continuously which I never see happening. A homebrew version would be easy to build and could be made as simple or complex as anyone wants it to be. I would likely include an inline fuse holder and fuse things for about 0.5 Amp.

DO NOT reverse polarity for any reason...It'll kill the unit before you can blink.

With that in mind I would think about placing some polarity protection across the power input of the Chargemaster. I have not looked inside mine yet. I would have thought RCBS would have considered that but I guess not. :(

I would go with a battery straight before I would use a UPS as I can see no reason for using a UPS or any inverter since the Chargemaster can be run directly off 12 Volt vehicle power or a simple SLA battery. I might have my wife add the linked parts on her next Amazon order just to build a battery box. :)

Ron
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,331
Messages
2,216,546
Members
79,554
Latest member
GerSteve
Back
Top