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Chargemaster 1500 Repair Service - Lone Mountain Comm AZ

TheCZKid

Silver $$ Contributor
My Chargemaster 1500 just began to have an issue - the top half of the key-pad on the top unit no longer works. The two top rows, but the bottom rows still respond. I found a couple possible fixes I'm going to try first, here's 2 YouTube videos I watched, and I'll try the dielectric grease first, then if that doesn't work, I'll resolder the connections they mention in the videos:



Since I looked through this site, and online I figured I'd share a link to the place that will repair the unit. It's a flat rate of $155 plus return shipping, they will completely refurbish the unit, will fix every issue they find, and if they can't fix it they send you a new unit. Figured it's worth sharing here:

 
Did you call RCBS to see if they'll fix it ???

They might not wanna fix electrical problems, but it's worth a try.
 
Did you call RCBS to see if they'll fix it ???

They might not wanna fix electrical problems, but it's worth a try.
I tried, but they were already closed, and I've read enough threads saying, if it's out of warranty they won't work on it, but will give you a list of people who do...

I went to the Auto Zone and got a little pack of dielectric grease to use on the pins on the ribbon wire connections, see if that works. If not, then I'll touch up the solder spots on the board, see if that solves it.
 
Did you call RCBS to see if they'll fix it ???

They might not wanna fix electrical problems, but it's worth a try.

Units are imported (China, I think.)

If I'm remembering correctly, RCBS has been replacing units that failed under warranty, and then are hands-off once out of warranty. I've never had to verify this, so it's kind of second-hand info.
 
Units are imported (China, I think.)

If I'm remembering correctly, RCBS has been replacing units that failed under warranty, and then are hands-off once out of warranty. I've never had to verify this, so it's kind of second-hand info.
That's exactly what I heard too. Under warranty, they will help. Out of warranty they refer you to someplace else.

Okay, for everyone who was wondering what it looks like INSIDE the Chargemaster 1500, but was afraid to ask :oops: Here's some Pics!

CM1500 Front Keypad.jpg
This board is the underside of the front or lower Keypad...

CM1055 Main Unit.jpg
As you can guess, this is the underside of the hopper area, with the motor that runs the tube.

CM1500 Board.jpg
And this little beast is the bottom of the board inside the bottom of the hopper. It's got the connecter on the bottom that attaches the rear and forward units together. The rows of solder points across the bottom there are the ones that, if you resolder them to make sure the joint is soldered well, might fix many problems. The board is only about 2 5/8" wide, so those little solder spots are pretty tiny, not sure I'll be able to fix it... I'll have to use a magnifying glass and a small soldering gun tip. Hmmm
 
My Chargemaster 1500 just began to have an issue - the top half of the key-pad on the top unit no longer works. The two top rows, but the bottom rows still respond. I found a couple possible fixes I'm going to try first, here's 2 YouTube videos I watched, and I'll try the dielectric grease first, then if that doesn't work, I'll resolder the connections they mention in the videos:



Since I looked through this site, and online I figured I'd share a link to the place that will repair the unit. It's a flat rate of $155 plus return shipping, they will completely refurbish the unit, will fix every issue they find, and if they can't fix it they send you a new unit. Figured it's worth sharing here:

My Chargemaster gave up after many years and much use. First it was a few number buttons, the on/off button failed and that was it. Sent it to that place in Arizona for rebuild and a couple weeks later got an essentially new machine. Works beautifully. Well worth the cost.
 
My Chargemaster gave up after many years and much use. First it was a few number buttons, the on/off button failed and that was it. Sent it to that place in Arizona for rebuild and a couple weeks later got an essentially new machine. Works beautifully. Well worth the cost.
That's the place I was talking about, they're in Arizona. Thanks for the feedback about your experience!
 
not sure I'll be able to fix it... I'll have to use a magnifying glass and a small soldering gun tip. Hmmm

If you expect to find cracked in soldered joints, to see which ones need to be re-flowed, you'll need a magnifying glass. They're easy to miss.
 
Update: I tried dielectric grease I got from the auto parts store, on the connector pins that connect the front and back units, didn't seem to make any difference. So, I took my Weller soldering iron, with good lighting, a magnifier I got for tying flies, and went to work touching up the solder spots on the bottom of the board. My soldering work was not pretty, I figured it might not fire up at all now.

But, after hitting the top row of pins, I put the board back in the rear case and wired it up, put everything back together, and fired it up... And it works! The Chargemaster 1500 Lives Again, halleluiah and listen to the choir ;)

I'll test it more fully, doing my initial test loads for the new 20 VT, and if it has other issues, I'll report back. I think I just saved myself about $180
I redid the areas I circled in red, as they seemed to have the least solder on them. That's the before picture...

CM1500 Board2.jpg
 
if you saw how ugly my solder blobs looked compared to the original ones, you might hesitate. I did! :cool:
I was pleasantly surprised it fired up after I was done reinstalling it. The pins are tiny, and pretty close to one another. My solder tip is pretty small, but it sure looked huge compared to the pins. The board is about 2.5" wide, just for scale.

If it acts up again, I'll hit them all, see if I can fix it again!
 
FYI, I had a guy from Lone Mountain called me with the $155 + shipping, but got a reply to their form I replied to, and it appears they are charging $199 now, INFLATION?
 

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