Chambering from tool post holder

[Danny1788]

If you buy a MT3 tool holder for your quick change tool post and use a floating reamer holder to chamber a barrel?

Indicate the barrel in with a range rod then use a collet to line up the center of the bore with the tool post. ( using a MT3 collet holder on the tool post)

Then switch out the MT3 collet holder with a MT3 floating reamer holder and start chambering using the cross slide and DRO seems easier to me then using the tailstock.

just an idea any pros or cons doing it this way?

Im thinking with it on a quick change tool post you can adjust it vertical on the quick change tool holder to line it up. This way you have control of vertical and horizontal alignment of the floating reamer holder. Then all you have to do is use the carriage to reamer.

Another question is the tool post sturdy enough? or will it get alot of tool deflection with the big QC MT3 holder and floating reamer holder all hanging on the tool post?

 

[Gun Smith]

Seems like a feasible idea. If your toolpost is locked down tight, and you can snug up, or lock your crosslide and compound in place, it should work. Try it on a scrap piece and see how it does. A DRO would be great me thinks. Combined with a flush system would be really cool.

 

[Rustystud]

I personally use the tail stock to hold my tooling. I use the carriage locked down as a constant stop so when I remove the reamer I have a constant starting point.

If you were to chamber CNC with a HAAS Lathe you would be using the Carriage to hold your tooling.

Nat Lambeth

 

[shortgrass]

It is quite feasible, just takes a lot of set-up time. I'd have to use an indicator to set-up 'straight'. The collet idea just would leave me wondering. I've used the carriage previously, on 20" swing, manual lathes to spade drill (2" - 2 1/2" dia.) through forgings ( a rough cut, big enough to get a boring bar started on a CNC). I've got power feed, that way (and 1/4hp coolant pump with "through the bar" coolant). I think I'll stick to the tail stock for chambering, though. I've got indicators so I don't 'need' DRO.

 

[jkohler]

Dave tooley chambers using his carriage. His set up is a small tail stock milled down to fit is tool post holder. I've seen him post pictures of it.

 

[ridgeway]

Here is Dave's setup...

 

[Jay Christopherson]

I tried it, but found it difficult to manage. I found that the carriage feed was too coarse, for the most part. I tried it once or twice and went back to the tailstock because it was easier, faster, and more accurate in the end.

 

[shortgrass]

I'd think the easiest way to make that set-up would be to do away with the QC tool post and mount a block of steel in its place and center drill, drill, ream for the tool holder with the tools held in the spindle. I've built many tool holders over the past 40yrs for many different machines using this old 'stand-by'. At times I used a boring head instead of a reamer as the hole for the tool was 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" or larger. How do you think tool holders are made (for end slides/turrets) in the plants where they're made? The trouble would follow when it was set-up the second time on a manual lathe. The compound swivels and the cross slide is on a screw, but it'd eliminate a variable or two. Many "production" engine lathes have "T" slots on the far end of the cross slide. That's where I made the 'tool holder' for those spade drills. It fits tight and all I have to deal with at set-up is the cross slide. The tail still works better for me when chamber reaming. If you can't do a good job with the tail stock I doubt changing to the carriage will.

 

[ridgeway]

I still don't get the logic in mounting a reamer holder/block on the carriage? I understand using the DRO part, but a DRO or dial on the tailstock is just as accurate. When getting down the the nitty gritty, I prefer measuring with a depth micrometer anyhow. Sounds like complicating the mousetrap, lol.

 

[boltfluter]

I can see how this may help if you have alignment issues with the tail stock.

Paul

www.boltfluting.com

 

[shortgrass]

I can see how this may help if you have alignment issues with the tail stock.

Paul

www.boltfluting.com

Then fix those alignment issues. It's as simple (or complicated) as basic mechanics.

 

[rain164845]

I am going to be using this method. I have a MT2 holder that fits my QC toolpost. I have taken a MT2 stud and machined it for a floating reamer pusher that I made. vertical and horizontal adjustment of the pusher will not matter too much because of my design, but I will be making sure it is parallel with the chuck by mounting a fine indicator on the chuck and indicating the MT2 stud base. It can float, but it will be best if it is biased to be parallel.
Hope this helps.

 

[gme]

I've used this method on my TL-1 for years, if you have an accurate Z and X axis DRO it works great, I dont bother with indicating in a reamer holder, just put a scrap block of aluminum in the tool post and a drill in the chuck that matched the reamer base diameter (usually 7/16") and drill the block about .500 deep, instant perfectly aligned tool holder you still have room to attach a T handle, I have an attachment I designed that dosent require me to hold the reamer but still allows me to "feel" how the tool is working.

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

I can see how this may help if you have alignment issues with the tail stock.

Paul

www.boltfluting.com

Then fix those alignment issues. It's as simple (or complicated) as basic mechanics.

Amen

 

[missed]

I have thought about doing it using a collet holder in the tool post. Then use the crawl in with the feed, and have the lube hooked up with it. I need to fix my tail stock, and just have not gotten around to that massive project. I do have a glass scale on my tailstock which makes things nice. I just have too much vertical drop on my quill in the amount of travel needed to chamber. I just need to bore and hone the tailstock and make a new quill. Just a project I cant seem to get the time for.

 

[shortgrass]

I have thought about doing it using a collet holder in the tool post. Then use the crawl in with the feed, and have the lube hooked up with it. I need to fix my tail stock, and just have not gotten around to that massive project. I do have a glass scale on my tailstock which makes things nice. I just have too much vertical drop on my quill in the amount of travel needed to chamber. I just need to bore and hone the tailstock and make a new quill. Just a project I cant seem to get the time for.

Think about it! There are other methods to use besides the tailstock modifications you metioned in the above post. Those methods are alot simplier than altering a tailstock, too. You're over complicating an easily fixed problem. Manage to 'screw-up' those tailstock mods, and you could end up looking for another [tailstock].

 

[missed]

The tailstock quill is shimmed right now, it probably stays true enough to chamber a barrel. My anal retentiveness makes me still think its not accurate enough to do it, im worried about the quill dropping down a little pushing the tail of the reamer down. I have a machinist buddy that is going to help me rework the tail stock but we cant get lined up on when to do it, its like $500 in material to do it too.