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Chamber flush system build log.

The simplest modification extends the flute grooves out to the end of the reamer and either moves the snap ring groove, shortens the bushing, or grooves the retainer screw if used. Others use grooved bushings. The object is to allow the coolant past the pilot rather than have the pilot act as a plug. Not enough coolant will pass past a solid pilot just in the rifling grooves.
 
Not to go too far off topic... careful with the pilots... I had a JGS reamer that was always coming up short on freebore... The grooves in the pilot lined up perfect with the pilot, making the pilot irrelevant to the operation.
 
I like the idea of a valve for pressure adjustment/relief, thats what I was thinking, but is there any reason that a potentiometer wouldn't work on the motor? Probably do both?
 
A rheostat (ie dimmer) can work on some single phase AC motors. Most of the carbonator pumps have an internal relief valve. I set mine for 60 psig against a closed valve, that way I don't overpressure my filter. I have ball valves for air and oil and can throttle if needed but I've never really close the oil valve. I have a check valve in oil supply that closes when I turn off oil pump and open air valve. I have 1" return line into top of tanks and only see about 1" of oil in pan.
 
A rheostat (ie dimmer) can work on some single phase AC motors. Most of the carbonator pumps have an internal relief valve. I set mine for 60 psig against a closed valve, that way I don't overpressure my filter. I have ball valves for air and oil and can throttle if needed but I've never really close the oil valve. I have a check valve in oil supply that closes when I turn off oil pump and open air valve. I have 1" return line into top of tanks and only see about 1" of oil in pan.
A rheostat will only work on fractional horse power motors that have very small loads.
 
They might giggle at you a little if you wanted a 3 phase motor and VFD to make carbonated water. In fact you want the water pressure to exceed the CO2 pressure.
 
They might giggle at you a little if you wanted a 3 phase motor and VFD to make carbonated water. In fact you want the water pressure to exceed the CO2 pressure.
No ones talking about soda pop, This discussion is about reamer lubrication systems. Being able to dial down the rpms of the carbonator pump using a vfd or a dc motor and control to vary the flow of the oil would be very advantageous.
 
If there's a motor/frame/type that I can mate to the procon pump I'd be immediately interested
48Y appears to be the common frame size on carbonators. I could not find a 3-ph motor with a slotted shaft with a carbonator pump mounting nose at all. It might exist but I couldn’t find one. The belt driven carbonator someone posted might be the ticket if you want 3-ph. A gear pump rather than a vane type carbonator might be more likely to be found in 3-ph.
 
This is one of my favorite discussion threads; lots of good info being shared. It’s fun to see how we all implement these systems.

I know I mentioned this before, but want to say again how handy a foot switch is to start & stop the pump. I’ve been setting the relief valve at 40psi. That seems to flush chips well enough w/o streaming fluid too wildly when reamer is being withdrawn.

I cut the last two 22BRA chambers w/o a bushing and appreciated the increased oil flow. I’d read many times how a bushing wasn’t needed when taper-boring, etc. But I’d been hesitant to try that. This time around it was by necessity. My 22cal bushing set was centered around .219 and the smallest one was a bit too tight in these Krieger .218 bores. As best I can tell by looking with the Teslong, concentricity is great.

Edit to add:

If a person was to implement a variable speed pump, I think it’d be handiest to control it through a foot switch potentiometer or encoder, etc. Make it work like a TIG pedal where not depressing it turns it off.
 
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Revised my flush system. I added a ball valve to control flow to the return and the barrel. Then added a globe valve downstream of that to fine tune the flow out of the barrel. This setup works really good. The ball valve makes it easy to simply crank open to shut flow off to the barrel. It also makes it nice to control the flow when you initially start up the pump so the barrel doesn’t just “burp” out air and oil and make a mess. I chambered a barrel last night and found around 40-50PSI seems to work well for me.IMG_1008.jpegIMG_1010.png
 
Not to go too far off topic... careful with the pilots... I had a JGS reamer that was always coming up short on freebore... The grooves in the pilot lined up perfect with the pilot, making the pilot irrelevant to the operation.
I’m not following. Can you explain more? Thanks
 
The grooves in the pilot were cut in such a way, that they lined up with the lands in the barrel, so the pilot wasn't able to do it's job and the reamer was getting pushed around (5R barrel) so I ended up with a short freebore
Makes sense, I understand. Thank you!
 

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