Chamber flush system build log.

[FireMedic]

No problem at all. Just a plumbing job. Does your lathe have a big chip pan under the bed? If it does it might be advantageous to put a smaller pan under the bed with a hose to the drain outlet. That would eliminate excess oil in the pan mixing with STUFF. Also you could raise the outlet and it would act as a first stage settling pond. An aluminum roasting pan comes to mind. A plastic storage container would also work. You're only limited by your imagination.

Yes, my lathe has a large pull out chip pan. It has a 1/8hp pump. It would be nice to just use that if it will give enough oil flow.

I ordered some Astro Swiss hd mv oil from MSC…I’ll see how it works out with the factory pump. If it doesn’t work, I’ll upgrade it to a 1/4hp

 

[Ksracer]

Yes, my lathe has a large pull out chip pan. It has a 1/8hp pump. It would be nice to just use that if it will give enough oil flow.

I ordered some Astro Swiss hd mv oil from MSC…I’ll see how it works out with the factory pump. If it doesn’t work, I’ll upgrade it to a 1/4hp

I think I would add a 100 micron strainer to the discharge side of the system also if it doesn't have one already. Chip trays aren't usually the cleanest places and it's not hard to imagine debris getting stuck between the screw on the reamer and the lands.

 

[INTJ]

On that note I might get clever and run my external pump through the factory coolant nozzle / chip tray. That way I can stick to only 1 type of oil/coolant and have a nice flow when I'm parting, threading, etc.

That is how Greg Tannel suggests doing it with his system

 

[INTJ]

Would there be any disadvantage to using the onboard coolant system? Just use the tank and pump (or upgraded pump) that is located in the lathe stand. It would be nice to not have to manage a pan and return line

I ran into an issue using the onboard coolant pump that comes with the PM1440GT. It would only pump a neat cutting oil for about 20 minutes before tripping the thermal breaker. So it depends on what kind of coolant pump they put on your lathe. Many are only intended for water based coolants.

 

[DaveTooley]

Yes, my lathe has a large pull out chip pan. It has a 1/8hp pump. It would be nice to just use that if it will give enough oil flow.

I ordered some Astro Swiss hd mv oil from MSC…I’ll see how it works out with the factory pump. If it doesn’t work, I’ll upgrade it to a 1/4hp

I use a 1/8 HP pump on my Haas. It's enough.

 

[LVLAaron]

I ran into an issue using the onboard coolant pump that comes with the PM1440GT. It would only pump a near cutting oil for about 20 minutes before tripping the thermal breaker. So it depends on what kind of coolant pump they put on your lathe. Many are only intended for water based coolants.

Can confirm. I have a new pump coming.

 

[DaveTooley]

I think I would add a 100 micron strainer to the discharge side of the system also if it doesn't have one already. Chip trays aren't usually the cleanest places and it's not hard to imagine debris getting stuck between the screw on the reamer and the lands.

If you have a tank of any size all the fine particles will settle out. My first pan catches probably 98% of everything. Attached is a pic of the pan at the end of my lathe bed right before the oil returns to the tank. I haven't cleaned it out in at least 6 months. The upper right corner is the high side That's a 100+ barrels chambered. Notice how clear the oil appears after an over night rest.

 

[tobnpr]

This is why a coolant tank designed for this is better than a "bucket" or other tank that isn't partitioned.
Slow flow volume ensures the vast majority of the small stuff that goes into the tank settles out in the partitioned area before it flows over into the pump section.

 

[Machinist John]

I ran into an issue using the onboard coolant pump that comes with the PM1440GT. It would only pump a neat cutting oil for about 20 minutes before tripping the thermal breaker. So it depends on what kind of coolant pump they put on your lathe. Many are only intended for water based coolants.

Whoa! Check pump amperage on the ID tag. Best would be to use a "Amp Clamp" on the wiring when the pump is running under load. AmpClamp is an attachment to a DVM that measures running amps. Then check wiring size and breaker size (if there is a circuit breaker in the line) and modify accordingly.

If the thermal overload is one of those silly things mounted on the motor, you may have to do some re wiring, bypassing the thermal overload, and install an appropriate sized circuit breaker. Dedicated separate wiring, not from the lathe motor circuit.

This should be a centrifugal pump. Does it have a flow control valve on the pump discharge or a valve in the line somewhere? Valve could be closed down.

You may be right on the edge of pump motor capacity. Those pumps that come with the lathes and mills are sized for a water soluble oil that is less viscosity than a good cutting oil. Your oil might be too thick a viscosity for the pump. In this case a higher HP pump is needed.

Read the pump label and see what the HP is.

 

[Machinist John]

This is why a coolant tank designed for this is better than a "bucket" or other tank that isn't partitioned.
Slow flow volume ensures the vast majority of the small stuff that goes into the tank settles out in the partitioned area before it flows over into the pump section.

Yep. My 10 gallon tank has a stainer for the incoming oil and a baffle in the center of the tank so anything that gets past the strainer will settle out. The bigger the tank the better, as the oil has more dwell time in the tank to allow anything to settle out. LIke in the above post, gravity works!

Tank has been sitting behind the lathe since 2000, a little dirty but works fine. Pipe on the far side returns coolant to the tank and is positioned about an inch above the strainer.

Tank top is screwed down and may be removed for cleaning out the tank. Sometimes I get ambitious, pull the tank out, dump the coolant, clean out, and put back and fill with fresh coolant.

Pump

Switch for the pump mounted on the shelf behind the lathe

That is a M70 458 Lott in the lathe, grinding the muzzle for a snug fit for the barrel band front sight.

 

[Machinist John]

Notch the reamer retaining screw, notches aligned with the flutes. Remove the bushing, tighten the screw, and notch with a small triangle file.

Greatly increases the coolant/oil flow.

So your reamers have the circle clip instead of a screw to retain the bushing? Hmmm. I will light a few candles.

 

[INTJ]

Whoa! Check pump amperage on the ID tag. Best would be to use a "Amp Clamp" on the wiring when the pump is running under load. AmpClamp is an attachment to a DVM that measures running amps. Then check wiring size and breaker size (if there is a circuit breaker in the line) and modify accordingly.

If the thermal overload is one of those silly things mounted on the motor, you may have to do some re wiring, bypassing the thermal overload, and install an appropriate sized circuit breaker. Dedicated separate wiring, not from the lathe motor circuit.

This should be a centrifugal pump. Does it have a flow control valve on the pump discharge or a valve in the line somewhere? Valve could be closed down.

You may be right on the edge of pump motor capacity. Those pumps that come with the lathes and mills are sized for a water soluble oil that is less viscosity than a good cutting oil. Your oil might be too thick a viscosity for the pump. In this case a higher HP pump is needed.

Read the pump label and see what the HP is.

While the PM 1440 GT is a nice Taiwan built lathe, the coolant pump is on the low end and Precision Matthews even says it's only for water based coolant. It's a 1/8 HP .3 amp pump.

The unit is available as a stand alone to:

Coolant System, PM-1236T & PM-1340GT

Flood Type Coolant System for PM-1236T/PM-1340GT Lathe Flex Tube Bolt On Nozzle for easy placement on PM-1236T/PM-1340GT Lathe 220 Volts, wires directly in to machine Powerful 1/8HP Motor Includes Tank, Pump, Nozzle, Hose, On/Off Switch 5 Year Warranty

www.precisionmatthews.com

The ones you and Dave are using are much better pumps. I think the tag on yours says .7 amps.

 

[Machinist John]

Way back in the stone age folks chambered this way. P O Ackley shown. Note his reamer holder.

And also in the stone age, I chambered my first barrel using this tiny South Bend. Back when I was 15 years old. 1962. I still have the lathe, it was my dad's, he used it in his truck shop to turn commutators on starters and generators.

A mock up (not actually doing any chambering) of how I did it:

Dial indicator? What is that??? We had one in the shop for setting up ring gear and pinions, but I was pretty ignorant back then and did not know how to use an indicator for setting up barrels.

 

[Machinist John]

While the PM 1440 GT is a nice Taiwan built lathe, the coolant pump is on the low end and Precision Matthews even says it's only for water based coolant. It's a 1/8 HP .3 amp pump.

The unit is available as a stand alone to:

Coolant System, PM-1236T & PM-1340GT

Flood Type Coolant System for PM-1236T/PM-1340GT Lathe Flex Tube Bolt On Nozzle for easy placement on PM-1236T/PM-1340GT Lathe 220 Volts, wires directly in to machine Powerful 1/8HP Motor Includes Tank, Pump, Nozzle, Hose, On/Off Switch 5 Year Warranty

www.precisionmatthews.com

The ones you and Dave are using are much better pumps. I think the tag on yours says .7 amps.

I think you solved the problem.

 

[INTJ]

Got mine done. This setup is perfect.

 

[INTJ]

 

[LVLAaron]

What's the flow like once there's a reamer and pilot in the barrel?

 

[INTJ]

What's the flow like once there's a reamer and pilot in the barrel?

I haven't chambered a barrel with it yet. Based on how it flows now I think it will be similar to the pics I posted earlier in this thread of my system at work. I'll post pics here when I do cut a chamber.

 

[LVLAaron]

I'm a little envious of how you can run the drain tube out the back like that.

 

[INTJ]

On the 1440, you can use the chip pan as your drain pan. I think you'd need 10 gallons of fluid, because it drains slow