Chamber cleaning ?

[Charlie-NY]

For many years I just used a bore mop wrapped with some paper towel to remove any excess oil/solvent that may have gotten into the chamber during cleaning. I always use an o-ring bore-guide but things have a way of migrating where you don't want them.

Lately, I've been using lighter fluid which was recommended for such purpose and supposedly leaves no residue on the metal.

What are you guys using?

 

[jpx2rk]

I usually just use a bore mop with a clean patch wrapped around it to clean/dry the chamber. I've read that lighter fluid is good for cleaning trigger groups as it seems to lube them well, and doesn't attract dirt & grime. Never had any brass to "stick" in the chamber, but the hard bolt opening I get on occasion is from a hot load, not a dirty chamber.

 

[Fuj]

Dewey's shotgun mops and a 50/50 mix of acetone and alcohol.

 

[RegionRat]

Another "it depends" answer...

Normal cleaning with no problems, I will use a nylon chamber brush and using whatever I am using while cleaning the bore. Paper towel or patch wrapped to finish and repeat till clean on the paper or patch.

If that gives me any trouble, or if I scope it and see carbon build up starting, then I step up the game and go nuclear.

There is a big difference in the two situations. Dark polymerized build up will come loose with solvents, a hard carbon glaze will not and requires mechanical abrasion work.

The higher level for me is a bronze brush with stuff like Hoppes or whatever I have going for the bore. If that fails, then the Kroil, JB Paste, or the Iosso Paste comes out and is added to the job using two different bronze brushes, one new bore brush for the neck, and then the chamber brush. I am very careful not to over work the ramps on the lands or touch them at all.

If you are careful to prevent the hard carbon build up from starting in the first place, you will find that going nuclear isn't required very often if at all.

 

[K22]

In my opinion, cleaning the chamber is important and often neglected in the cleaning process. Here's what I do:

1. Every time I clean my bore, I also clean the chamber. I use a 9" brass pistol rod (Dewey*) with an eye loop style jag. I insert two oversized patches through the loop and form a butterfly configuration. I apply a small quantity of mineral spirits to the patches then run them into the chamber rotating the rod several revolutions. I also clean the race ways.

2. I run a second set of dry patches using the rod and same butterfly configuration to thoroughly dry the chamber. The mineral spirits leave no residue and do a good job of removing fouling. It's also less toxic and safer than lighter fluid.

3. Once a year I use the Dewey Lug cleaning tool which does a superior job of removing fouling and debris from the lug recesses. You won't believe the gunk you'll get out of there.

Note: Even though I use a rod guide with an O-ring, some residue always manages to find its way back to the chamber. Therefore, it's important to keep it clean.

* I use the one-piece Dewey pistol rod without the rotating handle so that you can rotate the patch arrangement in the chamber.

 

[Bill Norris]

I wet a nylon bore brush that is bigger than outside diameter of my brass like maybe a .40 cal. pistol brush with carbon remover on a short rod. I rotate it and move it in and out of the chamber neck area for a couple of mins or so. Keep repeating until there is no black on the brush when wrapped with a paper towel. I then dry the chamber area with a shotgun mop. I find if this is done from the first firing and at each cleaning of the barrel the carbon will not build up in the neck area.

 

[JEFFPPC]

Sometimes posts are informative, sometimes they are reassuring, sometimes they are scary, and often they leave me lmao. Better yet, sometimes I learn something.

 

[JMayo]

A 40 cal mop with a cleaning patch draped over it.

 

[Clancy]

A 40 cal mop with a cleaning patch draped over it.

Yep, and I think it’s a 270 mop for 223!

 

[6MMsteve]

91% alcohol on patch on brush, or a industrial Qtip with 91% with the bamboo stick don't breeak

 

[Ken]

bore snake

 

[bugman]

a cheap and effective method uses basic stuff you probably already have. A pistol cleaning rod with a non-rotating handle. Screw on a old bronze brush slightly smaller than your chamber...if you have a 6 mm chamber, use a .38 caliber brush. Use the 1.75 square patches that you still have for those large caliber bores. Wrap the first patch around the brush like you are rolling a cigarette, and the bronze bristles should hold it in place...if the bristles do not hold the first patch, then "scrape" the bristles so they are straight again. Wrap another patch (or two) around the first one. Spray it all with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Push the rolled patches all the way into the chamber, and rotate until it squeaks.
Replace the most outside patch every time you clean the chamber. No lint, no gunk, and the chamber will be dry before the next relay. Do this every time you clean your barrel because most bore guides won't prevent all the brushed bore cleaning solvents from getting into the chamber.
Keep it all handy for those days when your ammo is sweating, and you can't understand why bolt lift is "sticky".

 

[Kurz]

In my opinion, cleaning the chamber is important and often neglected in the cleaning process. Here's what I do:

1. Every time I clean my bore, I also clean the chamber. I use a 9" brass pistol rod (Dewey*) with an eye loop style jag. I insert two oversized patches through the loop and form a butterfly configuration. I apply a small quantity of mineral spirits to the patches then run them into the chamber rotating the rod several revolutions. I also clean the race ways.

2. I run a second set of dry patches using the rod and same butterfly configuration to thoroughly dry the chamber. The mineral spirits leave no residue and do a good job of removing fouling. It's also less toxic and safer than lighter fluid.

3. Once a year I use the Dewey Lug cleaning tool which does a superior job of removing fouling and debris from the lug recesses. You won't believe the gunk you'll get out of there.

Note: Even though I use a rod guide with an O-ring, some residue always manages to find its way back to the chamber. Therefore, it's important to keep it clean.

* I use the one-piece Dewey pistol rod without the rotating handle so that you can rotate the patch arrangement in the chamber.

This is a step most of us never thought about let alone used when cleaning rifles.

Some powders are just plain dirty even when they burn completely in the barrel. Ball Powders are the worst, in my opinion. The coatings used on the Ball Powders leaves a fouling which is unbelievable. But even fast burning flake or the newer short tube shapes leave a fouling and some residual burned powder in the lug way and lug seat, sometimes reaching as far back as the bolt raceway.

You're already there with the barreled action or rifle in the cleaning vise, spend a couple more minutes on your chambers and the lug areas. You'll be amazed at what comes out on the swabs!

As an aside, those swabs sold as lug cleaning aids are simply the same cotton mouth packing aids used by dentists when they try to keep your cheeks away from the teeth they're working on. Much cheaper when you order separately online or do as I do, barter with my dentist who is also a hunter/shooter.

Enjoy!

 

[K22]

This is a step most of us never thought about let alone used when cleaning rifles.

Some powders are just plain dirty even when they burn completely in the barrel. Ball Powders are the worst, in my opinion. The coatings used on the Ball Powders leaves a fouling which is unbelievable. But even fast burning flake or the newer short tube shapes leave a fouling and some residual burned powder in the lug way and lug seat, sometimes reaching as far back as the bolt raceway.

You're already there with the barreled action or rifle in the cleaning vise, spend a couple more minutes on your chambers and the lug areas. You'll be amazed at what comes out on the swabs!

As an aside, those swabs sold as lug cleaning aids are simply the same cotton mouth packing aids used by dentists when they try to keep your cheeks away from the teeth they're working on. Much cheaper when you order separately online or do as I do, barter with my dentist who is also a hunter/shooter.

Enjoy!

Thanks for the info on those "swabs". They do a great job in the lug area.

I haven't used ball powders in a long time. However, even "stick" powders leave fouling in the chamber. While not as severe, cleaning the chamber every time you clean the bore prevents build up. It only takes a few minutes and worth the effort.

 

[D-4297]

I've posted this several times ; but have no problem doing it again . I am fanatical about cleaning my Chamber and neck area , as I shoot so many rounds on a given day . The process begins with cleaning the barrel in my normal manner . Then the real work begins .

Since I'm cleaning a .308 , I got a Blue nylon brush in .338 cal. , and put it on a piece of cleaning rod , and insert into a variable speed drill . Wet the brush with C-4 and insert till I feel contact with the neck area of the chamber . Start drill slowly , and insert in he neck area , moving in and out slowly for a minute or so . Remove . Re-wet brush and do it again . After the third or fourth "Brushing" of the neck area , I clean the brush, and wrap the brush with half a patch and run it in to clean the gunk out of the neck . Repeat .

Next step is to change brushes to a Nylon chamber brush , wet with C-4 and do the Chamber area , and re-wet the brush at least twice . Wrap the brush with a patch and clean out the gunk . Repeat the Dry patch .

Then it's the Sinclair Lug Tool ; to get the Lug area . I wet the cotton tube with C-4 and insert , rotate in both directions , and then put a Dry patch over the already deformed and dirty tube , and insert . Again rotating in both directions . I do repeat the Dry Patch .

Next is to use a Dry Mop with a Patch wrapped around it to clean the Bolt Guide Areas , and then One more final step . And maybe the most important one . To protect your Barrel . Carefully insert your barrel cleaning rod , with jag , clean patch , and rod the barrel carefully letting the jag / patch guide it's self into your Bore . Repeat this one more time . You'll be surprised what those last two patches look like .