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CFL Light Bulbs and Digital Scale Proximity - Problem or Not?

dixieppc

In search of one small hole...
My loading room is lit with four lights. One boom light at the bench, one ceiling light and two desk lamps all with 100 watt incandescent bulbs. My overhead bulb blew out so I went down to the local dollar store to get another pack of 100 watt incandescent bulbs. First, I had to go to five different stores before I was able to find 100 watt bulbs. Seems most stores are only carrying a maximum of 60 watt incandescent bulbs now and very few incandescent bulbs at all. When I finally found the 100 watt bulbs, my gosh, what used to cost around a buck for an off brand pack of four now is running around $6-$8 for the same pack of four.

So I decided to look into changing over to CFL bulbs. They are not only more cost efficient but put a lot less heat off into the room. I can get Sylvania micro mini CFL bulbs that are rated equivalent to a 100 watt replacement for 5 bucks a piece. And they don't burn out every other month and have to be replaced like incandescent bulbs do anymore.

Then I remembered a forum conversation somewhere about these things causing interference with electronic scales. Or was it neon lights with a ballast? Anyway is four of these CFL things burning in the same room as a set of electronic scales going to be a problem?

Regards....
 
My little reloading room is lit by multiple fluorescent and CFL bulbs, and my scale (A&D FX-120i) doesn't seem to care.
 
CFL's ought to be OK but don't believe the hype about extended life unless you leave 'em on 24/7/365. Too, they contain mercury & ought not to be tossed into the trash when they eventually fail.

Incandescents are being "phased out" because they're inefficient: far more heat than lumens for the power they use.

Expensive (but getting less so and better now than before) LED's are what I'm using now. Reloading room uses conventional fluorescents but with electronic ballasts (old tech used magnetics which WILL give scales the heebies) & so far no issues.
 
I run a CFL really close to my GD503 and never have noticed a problem with that one or my old RCBS 90 digital scale...
 
I have a ferrite filter clamped around the power cord to my digital scale. I am under the impression that this is why the two fluorescent fixtures near the scale are not affecting its operation. At any rate, I don't have an interference problem.
 
I don't suspect you'll have any issues. I use a GemPro 250 scale (which many others have had interference issues with) and I have not had any issues at all, maybe I'm lucky (not). Anyway, I have used fluorescent tubes at 6' above, halogen track at 6' above, cfl at 3' above and now just purchased 2-4' LED double tube lights using 3' above and none have caused issues, knock on wood.
 
Uthink Uknow said:
I have a ferrite filter clamped around the power cord to my digital scale. I am under the impression that this is why the two fluorescent fixtures near the scale are not affecting its operation. At any rate, I don't have an interference problem.
No one replying to this post seems to be having any interference problems but your ferrite filter sounds like a good idea just in case. I'll check our local Radio Shack and see if they have any.

Thanks to everyone that replied. It appears that this is a non issue.

Regards......
 
broncman said:
I have noticed my cell phone makes my RCBS electronic scale drift.
Imagine what that's doing to your brain when you're talking on it (Grin).

Regards....
 
dixieppc said:
Imagine what that's doing to your brain when you're talking on it (Grin).

Or your internal organs when it's clipped to your belt... or in a pocket down there.

This is all pretty new technology when compared to how our bodies react to stuff that they've evolved alongside of... RF energy affects water & fat molecules, otherwise microwave ovens wouldn't work.

What are our bodies mostly made of? Water... fat... a few other substances to hold the rest together.
 
I have had no problems with electronic scales and CFL's or T-8's and some older T-12's.
Strictly for savings I will eventually make the switch to LED's.
Choosing the correct (or what you find proper) color temperature of bulbs is important (at least to me).
The only accurate way to determine what you are buying is to search for the KELVIN temp on the package.
Cool white, day light, soft white are basically meaningless as there is no clear definition as to what these words actually mean. The higher the Kelvin temp number the 'whiter' the light. The sun is 5600K. I like 6500K as it provides me with a stark white light that for my eyes is ideal. When you get down to the 2700K it is a yellow light as some may prefer in a living room. I have never heard anyone say "There is TOO much light" on a reloading bench. I drifted from the OP's question after the 1st sentence but maybe it helps someone in choosing the right color. The numbers I stated are fact. What I use and need is solely my opinion.
 
M-61 said:
I have had no problems with electronic scales and CFL's or T-8's and some older T-12's.
Strictly for savings I will eventually make the switch to LED's.
Choosing the correct (or what you find proper) color temperature of bulbs is important (at least to me).
The only accurate way to determine what you are buying is to search for the KELVIN temp on the package.
Cool white, day light, soft white are basically meaningless as there is no clear definition as to what these words actually mean. The higher the Kelvin temp number the 'whiter' the light. The sun is 5600K. I like 6500K as it provides me with a stark white light that for my eyes is ideal. When you get down to the 2700K it is a yellow light as some may prefer in a living room. I have never heard anyone say "There is TOO much light" on a reloading bench. I drifted from the OP's question after the 1st sentence but maybe it helps someone in choosing the right color. The numbers I stated are fact. What I use and need is solely my opinion.
The Sylvanian 100 watt replacement CFLs that I bought were rated at 2700 K / 1600 Lumens and that gave me a really nice warm light. Today I bought another Sylvania 100 watt replacement CFL but the difference was that it was rated at 3500 K / 1600 Lumens. I misinterpreted the scale on the back of the box by thinking that the higher the K number the warmer the light. Wrong! The Sylvania 3500 K bulb is much more Colder 'Whiter' than the 2700 k bulb. I don't like that kind of light. But on a positive side, I did notice that the 3500 K light makes reading analog calipers/micrometers and my 10-10 Beam Scales a lot easier.

Regards....
 

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