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Case turning speed

I just finished turning 100 pieces of 30BR brass for a customer. I turn them on one of my lathes using a homemade case holder and a Hart turning tool. I usually turn a a very low speed (70-80 RPM). The necks are very consistant and show no cutter marks. During this last session I decided to try taking the lathe out of backgear and leaving the speed dial set where it was. I cut one case and measured with the Sinclair case mic and it was .0005" thinner than I was getting on the slow speed. I went back to backgear and finished the rest. I think as with almost all case prep techniques, consistancy is the secret.
 
FWIW

the unit sinclair sells is 200 rpm. I am getting ready to build my own using gear motor rated @ 177.7rpm & I believe 45 ft lbs. torque.

Keith in NC
 
I just use cheap old Black and Decker rechargable screw drivers from Wally World that are 180 RPM. Works perfect for me.

Danny
 
I just got back from Home depo and was maybe looking at the same thing you have and it was 180 rpm ;D
dreever said:
I just use cheap old Black and Decker rechargable screw drivers from Wally World that are 180 RPM. Works perfect for me.

Danny
 
dtucker said:
What is about the going rate for the rpm in turning case necks. Would 180 be to fast to use?

Ken Markle, the original owner of K&M services, maker of the popular K&M Turner, told me, not too long ago, that 180 RPMs was a perfect speed for neck turning. I use the RYOBI HP41L portable screwdriver that turns at that speed.
 
I just bought a case turner from pbike and it is really nice. I used to turn necks about 10 years or more ago when i did a little bench shooting. I am going to start to turn necks again because i am sick and miss it ;D So i have been doing some searching for awhile before i started to invest in the equiptment again and got the case turner i just mentioned. I also am going to get the kit that Century 21 looks to be offering to turn necks that has the brackets and all. I really like their stuff to and they have a few other things i want to try out. That is why i was wondering what RPM would be best. I will need something hand held for the power source. Had a Sinclair neck turner when i did turn necks but am going to go with the Century 21 and thinking of getting a PMA if my memory is thinking correct. I wonder how many of you fellows make 2 passes for a finished neck? I was thinking 2 neck turners, 1 for a 1st cut and the other set for a finish cut.
 
dtucker said:
I wonder how many of you fellows make 2 passes for a finished neck? I was thinking 2 neck turners, 1 for a 1st cut and the other set for a finish cut.

Depends on how much you take off.

I use one Turner and one pass with my 30BR necks, making sure I run the neck on and off the Pilot TWICE.

With my 6PPC, I use Two Turners, one for about 2/3rds of the total I want to remove, and a second one for the final 1/3rd, again making sure I run the neck on and off the Pilot TWICE.

With my 6mm Beggs light turn neck, I also need only one Turner and one pass, and again making sure I run the neck on and off the Pilot TWICE.

The second, on and off, really cleans it up. Watch how it removes just a tiny bit. Also keep the blade clean, by using a tooth brush, to remove any residue brass that may adhere to it, after the cut.
 
Outdoorsman said:
dtucker said:
I wonder how many of you fellows make 2 passes for a finished neck? I was thinking 2 neck turners, 1 for a 1st cut and the other set for a finish cut.

Depends on how much you take off.

I use one Turner and one pass with my 30BR necks, making sure I run the neck on and off the Pilot TWICE.

With my 6PPC, I use Two Turners, one for about 2/3rds of the total I want to remove, and a second one for the final 1/3rd, again making sure I run the neck on and off the Pilot TWICE.

With my 6mm Beggs light turn neck, I also need only one Turner and one pass, and again making sure I run the neck on and off the Pilot TWICE.

The second, on and off, really cleans it up. Watch how it removes just a tiny bit. Also keep the blade clean, by using a tooth brush, to remove any residue brass that may adhere to it, after the cut.
I used to do the exact same thing. I would run it back on for a second pass and it seems you would get the same thing you are talking about.
 
Hi, The new 21st Century Shooting NECK TURNING LATHE Likes 220-240 revs.
The CARBIDE cutting tool geometry in the neck turner requires very little tork, Very little heat build-up, I see no reason to take two (2) cuts or two(2) passes. Will easily turn .003 per side and hold +-.0001 wall thickness Get into the 21st century!
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2011/04/new-neck-turning-lathe-from-21st-century-shooting/

Thanks, John
 
dreever said:
I just use cheap old Black and Decker rechargable screw drivers from Wally World that are 180 RPM. Works perfect for me.

Danny
Me too. I never have done more than 25 at a time, with a Sinclair tool but it does a great job for me. I mount the screw driver in a well paded vice and only touch the speed control. I move the cutting tool with my right , dominant hand. I first use an old Forster tool to take the high spots down and then the Sinclair for final pass. I don't have trouble with inadequate torque from the screw driver that way.
 

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