• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Case sizing

I believe I'm at a similar point to the OP, getting started with body sizing. Has anyone used shims to achieve the same adjustment effect as the redding competition shellholders? (Shims might be tedious, but they are much cheaper)

Shim set: https://www.mcmaster.com/#shims/=1bwvdmy

David


the stickers shown above would be your cheapest way . PMA makes a die tool that resembles these stickers , not cheap though .
I think a lot of guys use die shims . this would accomplish the same as using the sticker mentioned above . what you are doing is using a shim to raise the die away from the shell holder .this creates a gap between the die and shell holder .if you need less shoulder bump , add more shim . when using the competition shell holder sets the die makes firm contact with the shell holder . this firm contact takes all the play out of the press . when you have a gap brass hardness can vary the amount of shoulder bump . I get more consistent shoulder bump using the competition shell holder sets .
 
My input to "headspace":

There is "chamber headspace" and there is "case headspace"
  • Chamber headspace is the distance from the bolt-face to the chamber datum.
  • Case headspace is the distance from the base to the datum of the case.
Subtracting the chamber headspace from the case headspace, equates the interference fit of the case to the chamber. Which is often and commonly referred to as just "headspace".

Several manufactures, such as LE Wilson, RCBS, Redding, etc., refer to "case headspace" in there descriptions and instructions to some of there products, and use it in vocabulary to reloading also.
Donovan
 
Last edited:
Regarding those labels for die lock rings.... many years ago, I asked Redding and RCBS to stamp one side of their die lock rings with 36 even spaced lines so die vertical position in the press could be precisely changed to ~.002" increments. Both thought it was a good idea. Especially with the case headspace measuring tools on the market. Neither has done it as far as I know.

Subtracting the chamber headspace from the case headspace, equates the interference fit of the case to the chamber. Which is often and commonly referred to as just "headspace".
In the beginning, when all rifle cases were rimmed, "headspace" was the difference between rim thickness and the space between breech face and chamber shoulder the rimmed case and gauge rim heads' stopped against. It all made sense as it was the space from breech to head of case when rounds fired.

When rimless bottleneck cases came out, things changed for their chambers and their gauges. Chamber "headspace" was breech/bolt face to a reference diameter on its angled shoulder. Gauge "headspace" was relatively the same; gauge head to the same reference diameter on its angled shoulder. The industry then termed the space between gauge or case head to breech (or bolt) face "head clearance" to differentiate between rimmed and rimless cases. It now applies to all cases; rimmed, rimless and belted.

The introduction of belted bottleneck cases compounded the issues. Their case, chamber and gauge headspace references virtually parallel that of rimmed ones. No formal industry standard term for the length from bolt (or breech) face to an angled case shoulder was established in spite of that dimension being part of case and chamber specs shown in drawings.

Most folks who reload and the industry making tools and components have fair thee well established their own glossary of names, terms and conventions. Use the common language to effectively communicate. SAAMI has a glossary to help. So does some forums on the 'net.
 
Last edited:
My input to "headspace":

There is "chamber headspace" and there is "case headspace"
  • Chamber headspace is the distance from the bolt-face to the chamber datum.
  • Case headspace is the distance from the base to the datum of the case.
Subtracting the chamber headspace from the case headspace, equates the interference fit of the case to the chamber. Which is often and commonly referred to as just "headspace".

Several manufactures, such as LE Wilson, RCBS, Redding, etc., refer to "case headspace" in there descriptions and instructions to some of there products, and use it in vocabulary to reloading also.
Donovan
I agree with this explanation. Although there are some Members on this forum that disagree. LOL. Matt
 
Buy the tool to measure brass length it is a must.
And I want a decoder ring too.

@dmoran has drank so much kool-aid and ovaltine he has all those fun toys. he's finally to the point he can part with one. with the decoder ring I now know some cases have headspace and theres those that dont. again, I know that now I form cases then I fire them and I do know how to measure that.
 
I have made some rings for my dies in the past with a laser cutter and some ~3mm wood. They have a 22.4mm inside diameter and 31.7mm outside diameter. 10° markings.



If anyone interested...probably not, $2 for the first one, $1 for each additional?
 
paluke, Try this for s&g's. Measure the neck o.d. of a fired case, remove the expander ball or whole shaft assembly, size the case, measure the neck o.d. and compare the two numbers. Sometimes you can get lucky and have very little difference. You may not be working the necks as much as you think, but at least this way you will know. Barlow
 
One can use their calipers and a metal or nylon spacer (or bushing) to measure case headspace. Spacer inside diameter can be any that touches on case shoulder; 3/8ths inch is good for 26 caliber cases. The difference between fired and resized case headspace is the issue, not the actual measurements.

View attachment 1040315

This label on the lock ring has marks showing how far to twist it for a .002" change in die height in the press. 36 marks equals almost .072" that's about the spacing of 14 threads per inch.

View attachment 1040317

Labels are shown in this link, print them on sticky back label paper, cut out then stick on lock rings. Mark the die threads with a reference line.

http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/jepp2/DieAdjustment-1.jpg

Bumping fired case shoulders back .001 to .002 inch is good for accuracy and case life
Someone will have to explain to me how that decal helps get accurate adjustments. For accurate adjustments ( to 0.001") you can't beat die shims. When I get to the point where threading dies on and off a press is a problem then I'll invest in a PMA die micro-adjuster.
 
Someone will have to explain to me how that decal helps get accurate adjustments.
With an index line on the die threads, those lines are 1/36th of a full turn of the lock ring's turn that would change its position on the die 0.0714285714 inch. 1/36th of 0.0714285714" equals 0.001984127" which rounds out 3 decimal places to .002".
 
Last edited:
With an index line on the die threads, those lines are 1/36th of a full turn of the lock ring's turn that would change its position on the die 0.0714285714 inch. 1/36th of
0.0714285714" equals 0.001984127" which rounds out 3 decimal places to .002".

And then there are reloaders with micrometers and the skill necessary to use them. If the die is turned to make an adjustment the die will raise and or lower in the press. A reloader with micrometers and the skill necessary to use then it should not take them long to discover the height above the press can be measured in thousandths.

And if the reloaders is using degree wheels they can verify the adjustment and in 10 years of that nonsense they can verify the adjustment with a height gage and in another few years they can ask themselves why: Why make the adjustment and then verify? It makes more sense to go straight to verifying the adjustment with a height gage.

F. Guffey
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
167,531
Messages
2,235,241
Members
80,559
Latest member
Shoenanvil
Back
Top