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Case sizing

Good morning, hopefully I explain this correctly to what I’m asking. I use RCBS standard dies for a 6.5 Creedmoor. I want to remove my decaping pin from the die and resize the case. Then use a Lee collet die to decap the primer and size the neck. I have the RCBS die set that the fired case closes with a little pressure when trying it in the rifle. I don’t have a comparator kit to measure how far I’m bumping the shoulder back so essentially I’m going by feel. Is this an ok practice for preparing a case for loading. Thank you for your replies and help.
 
No. Only going by "feel" can be a false indicator. Actual measuring with the proper tool and then verifying by checking bolt resistance with a stripped bolt and ideally without ejector is the best procedure- safety wise, and accuracy wise.
 
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No. Only going by "feel" can be a false indicator. Actual measuring with the proper tool and then verifying by checking bolt resistance with a stripped bolt and ideally without ejector is the best procedure- safety wise, and accuracy wise.
No. Only going by "feel" can be a false indicator. Actual measuring with the proper tool and then verifying by checking bolt resistance with a stripped bolt and ideally without ejector is the best procedure- safety wise, and accuracy wise.
Thanks for the reply. I’ll take your advice and go on from there. Thanks again.
 
One can use their calipers and a metal or nylon spacer (or bushing) to measure case headspace. Spacer inside diameter can be any that touches on case shoulder; 3/8ths inch is good for 26 caliber cases. The difference between fired and resized case headspace is the issue, not the actual measurements.

IMG_0262.JPG

This label on the lock ring has marks showing how far to twist it for a .002" change in die height in the press. 36 marks equals almost .072" that's about the spacing of 14 threads per inch.

image (1).jpeg

Labels are shown in this link, print them on sticky back label paper, cut out then stick on lock rings. Mark the die threads with a reference line.

http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/jepp2/DieAdjustment-1.jpg

Bumping fired case shoulders back .001 to .002 inch is good for accuracy and case life
 
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if you use a full length , or neck sizing die it will size the neck smaller than needed . the expander ball then opens the neck back up to size . if you want to bump shoulders and then use a Lee collet die , you need to use a body sizing die . this die only sizes the body , and does nothing to the neck .

neck size only a few times to get your brass fully expanded , before you set up to bump the shoulder . the brass will start to get tight to chamber when your brass is fully expanded . setting up on brass that is not fully expanded will have you chasing your tail .

Alex Wheeler has a few good videos on his wheeler accuracy website . one is on sizing brass .

I like to use redding competition shellholder sets to size brass , they make bumping shoulders easy .
 
Is this an ok practice for preparing a case for loading.
No.
if you use a full length , or neck sizing die it will size the neck smaller than needed . the expander ball then opens the neck back up to size . if you want to bump shoulders and then use a Lee collet die , you need to use a body sizing die . this die only sizes the body , and does nothing to the neck .
This.
 
...or if you have a bushing type full length sizing die, you can use it as a body die for shoulder bump only. Just don't use a bushing and remove the decapping/expander ball assembly.
 
Bart B got it right. You don't need fancy to get started. You just need some way of measuring the difference in the shoulder dimension between fired and sized cases.
 
Thanks to everyone. I now understand the steps I need to take. I’m reloading a few years now and always full length sized my brass. I received a new rifle and I want it to be as accurate as I can with reloading. Thanks again.
 
Paluke
First of all before you go crazy with all this what do you want to do? Hunting, plinking, Benchrest, LR competition, prs? It makes a difference. Take a breath and let us know. Things aren't as hard to do as you might think.
 
So what's so smoking hot about Lee collet dies for neck sizing? What am I missing?? I've never used one but I do use bushing dies for neck tension. Recently I've started using K&M expanders in .0005 increments to get exactly (precisely) what I want. If I could just get brass that keeps exactly the same hardness.
 
So what's so smoking hot about Lee collet dies for neck sizing? What am I missing?? I've never used one but I do use bushing dies for neck tension. Recently I've started using K&M expanders in .0005 increments to get exactly (precisely) what I want. If I could just get brass that keeps exactly the same hardness.
Over the years, for unturned brass, I have suggested that shooters try first neck sizing with a Lee Collet die and then sizing the body including whatever shoulder bumping is needed with either a body die or a bushing FL die with the bushing removed. All of the feedback that I have gotten on this has been very positive. I have bushing dies, one piece FL dies that over size necks, and FL dies that do not, as well as body dies. I have tried them all and measured the results on concentricity gauges, as well as noting the uniformity of seating force. Collet dies have a learning curve, and they are not for every situation, but for the specific one that I mentioned as part of a two step sizing process they work very well. Collet dies have a built in four way split collet that squeezes the neck against a mandrel. The mandrel's decapping pin is in the flash hole before the sizing begins so the case is pretty well aligned at the start of the sizing process. This is not a I think thing, it is a we have tried it thing.
 
Paluke
First of all before you go crazy with all this what do you want to do? Hunting, plinking, Benchrest, LR competition, prs? It makes a difference. Take a breath and let us know. Things aren't as hard to do as you might think.
I’m hoping just to end up with a accurate rifle. It’s a Browning Hell’s Canyon long range. I’m loading 130 gr ELDM’s with reloader 16. It’s honestly a 1/2 to 5/8” rifle now. Just trying to get it better and I guess I’m trying to make sure I’m doing everything I can. It will be used for hunting and long range groundhogs. Thanks again.
 
One can use their calipers and a metal or nylon spacer (or bushing) to measure case headspace

If the case had head space but it doesn't. And then there is case length, I measure case length from the datum to the case head and from the datum to the end of the case mouth. Other reloaders talk of case stretch in lofty terms because they have no clue.

F. Guffey
 
If the case had head space but it doesn't. And then there is case length, I measure case length from the datum to the case head and from the datum to the end of the case mouth. Other reloaders talk of case stretch in lofty terms because they have no clue.

F. Guffey

Now this is sound advice.
 
Once upon a time, long long ago, someone had an idea........ He thought:

Do the 1.4636 and 1.4666 numbers on these things indicate the distance in inches from the flat end to some place on their pointy end?

p_184000037_2.jpg

Does anyone think measuring rifle cases the same way might be useful to compare them to those things? What should we call that space from its head to the other spot on its tapered end? Should the terminology be easily understood and have relavent meanings for all?
 
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When referring to a case I tend to put headspace in quotes like this "headspace". Generally there is only one poster that I can think of that says that this usage is a problem and because he tells us that he is sufficiently experienced so that he does not need any information, I don't worry about that one case.
 

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