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Case scratches

I would clean the dies and inspect to make sure no visible damage (borescope is helpful if you have one). Make sure there is no tumbling media/dust on the cases prior to lubing.
Use a good lube and the proper amount

Something I think some may overlook ....I would also inspect and clean your shell holder ... I have noticed sometimes grime, corn cob media, etc can build up inside where the rim gets aligned in the shell holder. If the case can't align properly it might not go into die straight and cause some scratching.

Some reloaders are more cleanly than others, or sometimes we get in a hurry. As a general practice, I try to always start with a cleaning and inspection of Everything before I start the process to eliminate any issues and make sure things are set up correctly.
 
this long is just wasting time. is it really acorn or do you mean walnut?
my brass has never been dirty enough to need a hard media and i tumble for 90m tops, usually 60m. i prefer corn cob but that just personal pref with nu finish or iosso is my favorite.
my corn cob media doesn't do much of anything in 60 or 90 minutes. It will clean all the ick off of AR or semi auto brass in 90 minutes. But good match grade brass shot from a good bolt action chamber, there is little difference after 90 minutes of tumbling. Unless I add something to the media like Nu-Finish.

Now, if I am tumbling off the sizing lube from brass, 60 minutes is just fine.

However, I'd rather not put anything in my media, so tumbling for 4+ hours is common for me. Usually I tumble for 8-10 because I put it in before bed, and grab it after coffee in the morning. Although, earlier this week I found that I forgot I had brass in the tumbler. It had been going for 4 days.
 
When I started reading your post, I thought right away that you were using Redding dies. Long story short, the dies are out of spec. I'm surprised their customer service told you to polish the brass. I had the same problem with Redding. I called customer service. They blamed my rifle and everything I could have done to create the problem, but in the end the die was out of spec. To solve this problem, send the dies back and let them polish them and never buy Redding junk again.
I had the same issue with 2 Redding dies. The .308 die was scratching the new brass, and the 300 PRC wouldn’t even fit the case.

Both were Type S Bushing dies. I have since switched to Hornady Match Grade dies and I’m very pleased with the quality and loaded rounds.
 
I had the same issue with 2 Redding dies. The .308 die was scratching the new brass, and the 300 PRC wouldn’t even fit the case.

Both were Type S Bushing dies. I have since switched to Hornady Match Grade dies and I’m very pleased with the quality and loaded rounds.
Yup i just went back at it today. I actually borrowed a redding 270wsm die from my father In law to try also. Cleaned my die with the brush and bore solvent, used imperial and one shot plus what I had before. Same issue you can see vertical lines forming on the brass line fine stretch mark scratches and see the build up inside the die of veritical copper. So I switched to his die tried all 3 lubes let lube sit for 30 min and also tried within 5 min and wouldn't even go 1/4 way into the die without feeling like it was going to get stuck.
 
Sounds like the scratches are caused by brass that's stuck to the die from galling. No other possible cause. Galling can only be caused by a tight fit and poor lube. Some materials may resist galling more than others but we are stuck with brass and the dies we buy. Are the case necks o.d. chamfered? You may have a chamber that's on the large size of spec. causing a lot of friction forcing the case into the die? Two dies slightly different dimentions. I don't think that the lubes they sell are good if you are trying to push a slightly larger case into a die. They are fine for 95% of our sizing needs. I worked in petroleum research. 20 years ago I started using a light vis synthetic oil for case lube. Petroleum and synthetic oils have superior film strength to any other lube. That's the ability to keep two surfaces sliding against each other seperated under load. I buy a synthetic hydaulic oil at AutoZone about $8 a quart. I mentioned using this oil severals times on this website but apparently no-one believes me or are willing to try it.
 
Sounds like the scratches are caused by brass that's stuck to the die from galling. No other possible cause. Galling can only be caused by a tight fit and poor lube. Some materials may resist galling more than others but we are stuck with brass and the dies we buy. Are the case necks o.d. chamfered? You may have a chamber that's on the large size of spec. causing a lot of friction forcing the case into the die? Two dies slightly different dimentions. I don't think that the lubes they sell are good if you are trying to push a slightly larger case into a die. They are fine for 95% of our sizing needs. I worked in petroleum research. 20 years ago I started using a light vis synthetic oil for case lube. Petroleum and synthetic oils have superior film strength to any other lube. That's the ability to keep two surfaces sliding against each other seperated under load. I buy a synthetic hydaulic oil at AutoZone about $8 a quart. I mentioned using this oil severals times on this website but apparently no-one believes me or are willing to try it.
Yes my necks are chamfered. You know I was thinking that this morning. There is no scratches on the necks. So I was also thinking the winchester had a generous chamber. Because it's not just a single scratch, it's fine hair scratches 360° around the case. So I figured it's probably just a very tight fit and it's just the honing on the inside of the die making it scratch it. My press is very smooth tho with all lubes doesn't feel any diffrent then my other brass but I may try a different die company.
 
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