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Case prep, virgin

Rather than answer your question with more questions.... you can already tell that you would need to know something about the chamber and specifically the neck diameter to answer that question.

I will assume that since you asked your chamber is probably not a tight neck that would require the neck to be turned, but that it is probably a standard chamber. If this is the case, then you always have the option to turn necks if you find that you benefit from it in some way, but it isn't a requirement as it would be in the example of a tight neck custom chamber.

Virgin Lapua 6 BR brass is not so thick as to require being tuned for a standard chamber. As you gain experience with your loading process, and buying custom rigs, you will start learning that your loading process and your chamber work together as a system. You will learn what you like in terms of your brass prep and also what you like in terms of neck diameters and your seating depth preferences and bullet weights, etc.

Once you fire a few rounds, check the OD of the fired cases. You will see how that, plus neck turning, alters your views on sizing and work hardening effects of those choices. There are trade-offs between thinning down the neck thickness of your brass, the neck prep processing, and the diameter of the chamber. Some folks turn down just enough to reduce the runout, others turn to a specific thickness to eliminate batch to batch variables. There are lots of considerations to think about when deciding on turn or no-turn.
 
Here is how I do it..
1. Run the case into an expander mandrel, turning the case a little in the shellholder and run it back up into the mandrel, do this till you feel the mandrel going in and out easily>>>usually about 3 times up.
2. If you have a tight neck chamber, turn your brass to the proper neck wall thickness. If you have a NO-TURN chamber, at least skim turn most of the high points off the neck wall.
3. Chamfer the inside and outside of the case mouths.
4. Anneal the brass>>>yes >> anneal virgin brass.
5. Run the cases back up into the expander mandrel>>>heat can move your case necks a bit.
6. Prime the cases
7. Take a Q-Tip and wipe a little Imperial Dry Neck Lube on the inside of the case neck.
8. Charge with powder and;
9. Seat the bullet to the proper depth.
10. This will allow your cases to shoot 99pct. of a "fireformed" case..
 
I have 2 barrels for my 6BR: 13.5" twist no turn neck (don't know what the neck measures) for short range, and a 7.5" .272" neck for heavy bullets. I turn the long range stuff because I have to (followed by neck sizing and deburring/chamfering.) The short range stuff gets expanded and deburred, and loaded up.

Just noticed your last post. 272 is close, but probably should be turned a bit. Lapua brass runs in the 14 - 15 thousandths range out of the box (at least, mine did.) Twice the neck wall at 14, plus bullet diameter is 243 +14+14 = 271. That doesn't leave a lot of room for bullet release. If your brass measures 15 thou at the neck, it's not going to chamber (243+15+15 = 273; too fat to fit.)
 

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