case lube
- Thread starter jraney
- Start date
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
jraney,
If things like sizing are manotonous...(monotonous) LOL
I can't spell either. Then maybe reloading is not for you.
I mean wait till you are throwing powder to the kernel, Oh you need a pair of tweezers for that ??? As far as resizing cases for your savage from your encore, you are going to HAVE to move the shoulder. The encore will strech the case @ least .005-.010 longer than your savage chamber. You can n/k size until your blue in the face and your bolt isn't going to close or it will close hard. Measure a fired case from your encore and a fired case from your savage and you will see what I mean, the shoulder will be several tho longer on the encore.
As far as case lubes any case lube on the market will work satisfactory, I don't like messy,dirty lube pads so that's out for me. Hornady one shot has been my every day lube for the last 10 or 15 years with no issues. I prefer Imperial lube now, if there are any issues with my cases I know because I handle each case. If you ask what was the best case lube on ten different precision shooting sites the majority would be Imperial, if it is the top shooters choice for lube in the BR community than its good enough for me, although ANY lube will work if properly applied. Too much and you will dent cases, to little and you will stick cases,no matter what kind of lube you use!
Wayne.
If things like sizing are manotonous...(monotonous) LOL
I can't spell either. Then maybe reloading is not for you.
I mean wait till you are throwing powder to the kernel, Oh you need a pair of tweezers for that ??? As far as resizing cases for your savage from your encore, you are going to HAVE to move the shoulder. The encore will strech the case @ least .005-.010 longer than your savage chamber. You can n/k size until your blue in the face and your bolt isn't going to close or it will close hard. Measure a fired case from your encore and a fired case from your savage and you will see what I mean, the shoulder will be several tho longer on the encore.
As far as case lubes any case lube on the market will work satisfactory, I don't like messy,dirty lube pads so that's out for me. Hornady one shot has been my every day lube for the last 10 or 15 years with no issues. I prefer Imperial lube now, if there are any issues with my cases I know because I handle each case. If you ask what was the best case lube on ten different precision shooting sites the majority would be Imperial, if it is the top shooters choice for lube in the BR community than its good enough for me, although ANY lube will work if properly applied. Too much and you will dent cases, to little and you will stick cases,no matter what kind of lube you use!
Wayne.
Wayne (bozo699) makes several good points. I don't like spray lube myself, but some do. I nearly destroyed my die and did ruin the decapping stem as well as tore the rim off the case I got it stuck so bad with one shot spray lube, and I had tried another pump spray bottle lube (maybe RCBS?) and I though that sucked as well.
Lee works well for general sizing, but I like the Royal Case Wax a lot more. It works just as well as Imperial, at half the cost. I just throw on some latex gloves, coat the tips of a few fingers on one hand, grab cases with the other and rub it on the neck and down the body. I am careful to only apply a very small amount to the shoulder so as not to get dents. You get to examine your brass much better this way than just spraying them, and since you need to handle them to inspect them anyway, why not get the lubing out of the way?
There are other lubes that work, and most any will get you by. But when you start case forming or bumping shoulders back, you will start to appreciate the better lubes, like Royal or Imperial or the Hornady wax. Even sizing 30-06 brass goes much easier with Royal than it did with Lee, and my .500S&W and 45/70 go much smoother as well. But the stuff really shines when forming .222 from 5.56 Lake City brass. Moving the shoulder that far with anything but Royal (or other waxes) took some effort and often ended up with dents and collapsed shoulders as you need so much of it. Even forming .35 Whelen from 30-06 goes super smooth with Royal.
So while any will get you by and do the job, some just do the job much better than others. However, I would go to a lube pad 100 times over before I EVER spray another lube that comes in a can or bottle on my cases. If you must go to a faster method, go to the pad and leave the sprays alone. Aerosol cans belong in the bathroom to make it stink less when you do your business, not to lube your brass.
Kenny
Lee works well for general sizing, but I like the Royal Case Wax a lot more. It works just as well as Imperial, at half the cost. I just throw on some latex gloves, coat the tips of a few fingers on one hand, grab cases with the other and rub it on the neck and down the body. I am careful to only apply a very small amount to the shoulder so as not to get dents. You get to examine your brass much better this way than just spraying them, and since you need to handle them to inspect them anyway, why not get the lubing out of the way?
There are other lubes that work, and most any will get you by. But when you start case forming or bumping shoulders back, you will start to appreciate the better lubes, like Royal or Imperial or the Hornady wax. Even sizing 30-06 brass goes much easier with Royal than it did with Lee, and my .500S&W and 45/70 go much smoother as well. But the stuff really shines when forming .222 from 5.56 Lake City brass. Moving the shoulder that far with anything but Royal (or other waxes) took some effort and often ended up with dents and collapsed shoulders as you need so much of it. Even forming .35 Whelen from 30-06 goes super smooth with Royal.
So while any will get you by and do the job, some just do the job much better than others. However, I would go to a lube pad 100 times over before I EVER spray another lube that comes in a can or bottle on my cases. If you must go to a faster method, go to the pad and leave the sprays alone. Aerosol cans belong in the bathroom to make it stink less when you do your business, not to lube your brass.
Kenny
Moderator
Administrator
Get Ballistol here: http://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-All-purpose-Lubricant-oz-Aerosol/dp/B001HJXUEQ/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_img_b
Or for bulk packs, get Ballistol here: http://www.ballistol.com/ordernow.html
I prefer the aerosol version, but there is also a liquid (cheaper but thicker).
I am somewhat surprised at the suggestions for one-shot, and some of the other stuff. Trust me I have tried just about everything. For normal case, try Ballistol.
It is not sticky or gummy like the RCBS stuff
It is far more economical (in use) than One Shot, and is easy to remove with just a paper towel.
It is non-toxic (though the propellant is not so great) -- If you can't tolerate sprays, you can use the liquid version, diluted.
It is CLEAR -- doesn't leave any chalky residue.
It will remove the powder residue on your necks so you can CLEAN and LUBE your cases in one operation.
I honestly rate the Ballistol a 9 for the task of normal FL sizing, and the other products a 2 or 3. Imperial Die Wax has its place for forming shoulders and other heavy work. Lee lube drys chalky and is hard to apply evenly. One shot is sticky and goes on pretty thick. RCBS lube is gooey and tacky and hard to remove. Anyway, end of speech.
Or for bulk packs, get Ballistol here: http://www.ballistol.com/ordernow.html
I prefer the aerosol version, but there is also a liquid (cheaper but thicker).
I am somewhat surprised at the suggestions for one-shot, and some of the other stuff. Trust me I have tried just about everything. For normal case, try Ballistol.
It is not sticky or gummy like the RCBS stuff
It is far more economical (in use) than One Shot, and is easy to remove with just a paper towel.
It is non-toxic (though the propellant is not so great) -- If you can't tolerate sprays, you can use the liquid version, diluted.
It is CLEAR -- doesn't leave any chalky residue.
It will remove the powder residue on your necks so you can CLEAN and LUBE your cases in one operation.
I honestly rate the Ballistol a 9 for the task of normal FL sizing, and the other products a 2 or 3. Imperial Die Wax has its place for forming shoulders and other heavy work. Lee lube drys chalky and is hard to apply evenly. One shot is sticky and goes on pretty thick. RCBS lube is gooey and tacky and hard to remove. Anyway, end of speech.
I just started using 1 part lanolin to 8 parts 99% isopropanol and am very impressed. I put it in a Sureshot refillable aerosol sprayer. I've been processing Mil .308 range pickup which has been fired through machine guns and is a little large. I'd say that effort to re-size this was reduced 30 - 40% compared to RCBS case lube. .223 is truly effortless, even Wolf steel cases! Rumor has it that Dillon is the same stuff. Must let the alcohol flash off after applying for a few minutes prior to sizing. I haven't done any case forming so can't comment on it's suitability for that. Found the recipe here http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=305174.
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
I have some thick quasi Imperial stuff that should last me through several incarnations. I got it from Dave Dohrman. It lubes well and wipes off easily. I also use RCBS Case Lube II. It is a clear liquid that comes off with a damp cloth, lubes well, and has no issues. Based on what I read somewhere, I bought a can of liquid Ballistol, and after smelling it, gave it away.
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