Case forming and case turning problems

[gene so]

I have had a Stolle Panda action and barrel chambered for 6.5 IHMSA to benchrest specs for many years. This was made before the 6.5 x 47 Lapua appeared on the scene.

I am attempting to create some cases for this rifle. I note in using case forming dies I used .308 Lapua cases and necked them down and cut them to length. Using a Nielsen "Pumpkin" unit for case neck turning I find that the expander mandrel will not expand the case neck large enough to be used on the pumpkin cutting mandrel. Apparently the brass case, when shortened, is thicker and more resistant to expansion. I talked with Don Nielsen the maker and he had no suggestions for me as to how to accomplish this challenge successfully. I use Imperial die wax as the lubricant but know that the mandrel will end up being galled by any attempt to force these cases on the cutting mandrel.
Hopefully someone out there has had this problem in the past and has a successful remedy for making cases from larger cases and then neck turning them.

Thank You,

 

[wapiti25]

Have you tried to anneal the brass before forming?

 

[forest45]

It would be best to start with new Lapua 6.5x47 brass. It will save most all the headaches you are currently having. Plenty of lube is a must.
Regards,

 

[jonbearman]

I agree you should anneal because what is happening is the case has spring back caused by the thickness.So anneal like Wapiti suggested and try again and let us know how you made out.

 

[amlevin]

I would definitely anneal before expanding. Also, if you're afraid of galling on the mandrel use 80-90EP gear lube. Stuff smells to high heaven but it's specifically compounded to prevent galling between metal parts. If you have a bottle of gear oil lying around from the last time you topped off your differential a small amount in an old pill bottle and a q-tip will solve the problem.

Outboard/outdrive lower unit oil will work fine too if you have that and not the other.

Imperial sizing wax is great stuff but it doesn't have the extreme pressure (anti-welding) agents in it that the stinkier stuff does. I've even used Loctite Anti-Seize (the silver stuff) for a real tight combination of brass, mandrel. Just make sure to clean the case neck with some lacquer thinner/alcohol/etc.

 

[searcher]

Perhaps this is a case where inside neck reaming might work - if you have the tool to do the job.