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Cargo Trailer Setup

I bought a steel 16 footer. Set the side door back another 2 ' when I ordered it, so I could put shelves in front. I insulated it with 1" foam and then put up 3/4" plywood. It's got super bright LED lights along with ac/dc wiring and a Honda generator + 100' hd cord for park power. I then added a bunk that folds up against one wall. I made the front shelve very sturdy to hold presses and powder dispenser, but never used it for reloading.

I used it a couple of times in Colorado and Montana for a hunting base camp. It worked so well, my son built one with a complete kitchen. Beats the heck outa tent camping. It's been idle the last two years, as I can't seem to draw a tag.
 
About 6-7 years ago I purchased an 8x20 ( 23 including the V nose) to use as a hunting camp. Had the walls and ceiling insulated at the factory, wired for generator, 12v/110 flourescent over head lights added, had two 15x30 side windows installed, an exterior entry door light added and an RV style door to replace the standard bar lock door. Had than leave the beaver tail rear off and keep the entire floor flat and had the rear ramp door left in it rather than double swinging doors( to load quads in it). Once I picked it up, i added upper and lower cabinets in the V nose with a sink in the middle. I just used up that V nose space that is hard to use anyway. I put in lexan storm windows inside over the 15x30 single pane sliders keeping condensation out while heating it. Installed two fold up double bunks ( one set per side) near the rear of the trailer. Carpeted under the bunks with insulation under the carpet. Linoleum flooring from the carpet to the cabinets in the rest of the trailer. Built a fold down kitchen table off the wall near the cabinets to seat 4. Installed one 4 gun wall rack/ one 4 bow wall rack. Hung a 10,000 btu Mr heater propane heater on the rear wall( ramp door) with hose running thru the floor to a propane tank. Had another 4000/9000 Mr heater in front mounted on the lower cabinets door near the side entry door with the hose running thru the cabinet door and thru the trailer floor under the cabinet to another propane tank. Wheel wells were covered in 1" foam and 1/2 plywood to keep the cold off them. The wheel wells were then used as shelves next to the lower bunks. Made curtains for the windows and added 5" foam on the bunks wrapped in covers that were permanently stapled under each bunk so they were not removable. Once complete, the trailer was incredibly comfortable. In temps near 0°, the inside was in the 70s with only the rear heater going ( thermostat controlled) on about 7 (7,000 btu). I mounted the front heater to use only at night while sleeping or when not at camp just to keep it around 50-60 depending on outside temps. The biggest problem I had with it was in extreme cold, the rear corners that had the hardware for the rear ramp couldn't be insulated. The steel trailer corners we're exposed allowing Frost and ice to form on them. Once heated enough, it melted and caused water on the flooring. That trailer was perfect for anything above say 28° just due to that Frost/icing issue. I sold it due to that issue because I mostly used it in November when temps did mostly get in the teens or colder at night. I'll add pics if I can find any.
 
Last year I had a hybrid trailer built. It's considered a 14x7 V nose. They don't count the V nose in the length. It's actually a 17x7. The bed is open and is 8'Lx 7'W. The enclosed portion is 9'Lx7'W (3' being V nose). Called a hybrid because part is open and part is enclose. I had it built in aluminum to prevent rust. I had it insulated on the sides and bubble wrap in ceiling. One RV door installed in the V nose and double swinging doors in the rear of the enclosed cab swinging into the bed. Bed has 24" solid side walls. Tailgate of the open bed are ramps and doubles for use to load quads. Each ramp sides in a track on each bed side vertically on top of each other and is flush with the sides once in place. They are 12" wide each. I installed E track vertically on the rear of the enclosed cab double rails on each side for E track 2x4 brackets. I then made 2 - 36x82 shelves to double as bunks for overnight use. It's intention is mostly for hunting/camping gear. Occasionally using them for bunks if needed for an unexpected overnight stay is Handy. The interior flooring is rubber diamond plate. The exterior bed and side walls are aluminum diamond plate. The interior of the cab walls and ceiling is white vinyl with aluminum trim. They did a great job building it. I had it wrapped in emerald green aluminum with diamond plate aluminum trim and diamond plate fenders. It's a tandem axle model. This one I'll keep as it's not used for sleeping in during extreme cold temps. I now have a pickup truck camper I use and haul the hybrid trailer behind. This trailer also doubles as a prairie dog setup. I can put my BR Pivot in the bed. Drop down my corner stabilizers to prevent any movement during walking in the bed and set up to shoot a dog town. Use the interior for shade while I installed screens in the entry door and rear double opening to keep out the flying biting bugs. Quite a nice rig actually.
 
Here are some examples to use for generating ideas:

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/342132902917077408/

Easy-DIY-Enclosed-Trailer-Storage-Ideas-21.jpg


https://www.vanchitecture.com/2017/11/10/29-easy-diy-enclosed-trailer-storage-ideas/

Enjoy!
 
Many trailer companies offer complete set ups as in the pics you posted. I priced different companies offerings but the price was very difficult for me to justify. The DIY plan fit my needs best. I had surplus lumber and tongue and groove to use for my first hunt camp project so cost was low. Bunk foam and lexan were all I really had to purchase besides curtain and bunk material. In the second trailer(current) I did have to purchase lumber and E track materials which cost was low. In the end, DIY was best for me. Using them only a few times each year makes it tough to spend 10,000.00 +/- on a fully equipped rig when with a little less than half that, I can create one that's perfect for my exact needs.
 
Sounds like you need a motor home to pull the toy hauler
 
Terry said:
Current thoughts are holding gear for 4 men, and loading.
Click to expand...
No problem in mild weather hunting early fall where much gear can be stored in the trucks in tote containers( clothing, hunt gear, weapons etc) but yes in winter temps where those items need to be warm prior to use, we only had 2 hunters typically using that setup. On Sept bear hunts we hunted 3-4 in that camp. No problems. Rainy days even worked out with chairs and bunks to hang out on. To be honest tho, 4 guys was the very most but two hunters using the other two bunks for gear bags etc worked best. Ideal two man camp. Could only fit two quads in the trailer when bunks we're folded up against the walls.
 
For shooting matches. Tandem axle, no less than 18'. Definitely no vent in roof, plenty of lighting. Cupboard's, counters at right height, ect.
 
Willie said:
I bought a steel 16 footer. Set the side door back another 2 ' when I ordered it, so I could put shelves in front. I insulated it with 1" foam and then put up 3/4" plywood. It's got super bright LED lights along with ac/dc wiring and a Honda generator + 100' hd cord for park power. I then added a bunk that folds up against one wall. I made the front shelve very sturdy to hold presses and powder dispenser, but never used it for reloading.

I used it a couple of times in Colorado and Montana for a hunting base camp. It worked so well, my son built one with a complete kitchen. Beats the heck outa tent camping. It's been idle the last two years, as I can't seem to draw a tag.
Click to expand...

Got any pics?
 
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