Carbon ring ?
- Thread starter Gman
- Start date
I also believe in the abrasive, scrapping action of JB ( or IOSSO), but with a bronze brush. You need the stiff bristles to get into the corners where the lands meet the grooves. It is the most difficult to remove from there.
Turning the brush clockwise on a non-rotating pistol cleaning rod will rip it out of the chamber mouth area in a very short time.
All this verified with my Hawkeye borescope.
Turning the brush clockwise on a non-rotating pistol cleaning rod will rip it out of the chamber mouth area in a very short time.
All this verified with my Hawkeye borescope.
fdshuster said:
Is there a possibility that a bronze brush being rotated in the chamber area can lose some bristles which may get caught in your lug recess area? Or would a stiff Nylon (MT Extreme) brush work just as good??
The reason i ask, Is i had a serious carbon problem over the weekend at a match. I didnt discover the problem until after shooting our Saturday targets. I used Franks approach to the carbon with bronze and Iosso paste. It definitely gets the carbon out....Took about an hour of scrubbing and patching it out. Much better results on Sundays targets.
Thanks
pmarauder: I've never seen a trace ( not even one) of a bronze brush bristle anywhere in the receiver lug area, chamber or bore. This is one of the areas I regularly inspect with the borescope.
What I did find years ago when I was push/pulling the brush thru the bore, like sawing a piece of wood, was bristles breaking off, from the back and forth strokes, and laying in the corners of the rifling, where the lands meet the grooves. The cleaning patch (tight fitting & wet with solvent) would pass over the top of them & they remained. 'Til a bullet passed over them?
Since then, I push only, from chamber to muzzle & the brushes wear & start to feel lose, before any bristles break-off. I'm following the advice of Bartlein barrels ( shown on their webpage, FAQ) & remove the brush after each pass down the barrel. Time consuming, I know, but to me, worth it.
Push/pulling also gave me very short brush life, since the bristles are constantly being bent back & forth, no different than bending a piece of sheet metal a few times until it breaks.
Most of my rifles are switch-barrels, & everytime a barrel is removed/replaced, the receiver lug area is closely inspected, cleaned & re-lubed.
With my match chambers, I keep my brass over-all length's at .005" to .010" shorter than chamber length's, so never have a carbon ring in that area now.
What I did find years ago when I was push/pulling the brush thru the bore, like sawing a piece of wood, was bristles breaking off, from the back and forth strokes, and laying in the corners of the rifling, where the lands meet the grooves. The cleaning patch (tight fitting & wet with solvent) would pass over the top of them & they remained. 'Til a bullet passed over them?
Since then, I push only, from chamber to muzzle & the brushes wear & start to feel lose, before any bristles break-off. I'm following the advice of Bartlein barrels ( shown on their webpage, FAQ) & remove the brush after each pass down the barrel. Time consuming, I know, but to me, worth it.
Push/pulling also gave me very short brush life, since the bristles are constantly being bent back & forth, no different than bending a piece of sheet metal a few times until it breaks.
Most of my rifles are switch-barrels, & everytime a barrel is removed/replaced, the receiver lug area is closely inspected, cleaned & re-lubed.
With my match chambers, I keep my brass over-all length's at .005" to .010" shorter than chamber length's, so never have a carbon ring in that area now.
Gman: I've tried several different liquid solvents that claim to be effective on carbon removal, unfortunately Bore-Tech C4 was not one of them. But, never left them sit for any length of time to give them a good test, so give it a try.
None of the one's I tried worked, so I continue to use the bronze brush/ JB method. Running low on my supply of JB, have a near full tube of IOSSO, so will try it next, but from what little I know, it also has been reported to be very effective.
None of the one's I tried worked, so I continue to use the bronze brush/ JB method. Running low on my supply of JB, have a near full tube of IOSSO, so will try it next, but from what little I know, it also has been reported to be very effective.
Gman said:
JB Bore Paste + Dewey patches are the best stuff for cleaning and polishing.
Hammer47
I suffer fools poorly.
Gman... use the Parker Hale type jag and roll the patch on instead of piercing it, then short stroke the leade area several times and proceed as usual. Only takes me 2 or 3 patches used in this manner and the cleaning job is done. In many cases no copper remover is even needed. Krieger bbls of course.
Hammer47
I suffer fools poorly.
Actually I just sold a really nice stock to the guy and will help him in any way I can. Know what you mean though. You think a carbon ring is tough to get rid of, try getting rid of this thing the kids call CHIRPIES.... guess it is a real bugger. Must get it from shooting crows or summat.....you rekkon?
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I'm in agreement here with a couple of small differences. I use a bore brush one size larger (example, for .224 use a .243 bore brush) and wrap a patch around it, coat it with JB and a touch of Kroil and twist away. Makes short work of the problem as verified by my Hawkeye borescope.
Hammer47
I suffer fools poorly.
I too have used that method however the results with just the wrapped patch are so good I do not have the need of the abrasive. Used to clean in this manner then went to a pierce type jag and patch, dunno why I ever changed. You also can control the diameter of the patch by the way you wrap it on the jag either straight across or diagonally for more or less friction in the bore. Btw, clean while the bbl is warm and it cleans much easier.
I use this process, but with a size larger bore brush.
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