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Carbon Ring and Powders

So I read a lot about the “carbon ring” and I understand that some powders are worse than others. I understand Varget makes a very hard ring to remove and the other ADI powders are somewhat the same. Unfortunately I don’t have a borescope so I have to rely on other indications of the ring. Only had issues once with Varget.

The primary powders I use are IMR 8208XBR (223 & 308) and IMR 4064 (308). I’m curious as to what others have experienced with these powders?

I’m also curious about IMR 4166, Alliant Varmint, AR-Comp and 2000MR.
 
How much carbon is built up is dependant upon many factors, and what you use, how you use it, and your cleaning regiment all have a hand.

I'd suggest that if you don't have, or cannot afford a borescope, that you get one of these inexpensive endoscope cameras.http://forum.accurateshooter.com/th...eslong-endoscope.3989042/page-3#post-37606050

The image quality is superb and will allow you to see when carbon is building, how your cleaning procedures are coping with it, and everything else you might want to know about how your barrel is holding up.
 
Some powders are worse than others, but carbon ring is avoidable regardless of powder, at least in my experience.

Do one of these two things:

1.) Clean the fouling out at the range, when your barrel is still warm.

2.) If the barrel has cooled down, remove excess powder fouling. Then, use bronze brushes, a carbon cleaner of your choice, until you've got patches coming out pretty clean. Follow it with an 'abrasive' such as JB Bore Paste or Iosso. It'll be free of carbon at this point.

Also, try not to let it get out of control. Part of avoiding carbon buildup is constant management.

That said, using these techniques, I've never seen a carbon ring even form in any of my barrels.
 
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The carbon ring is not in the throat it is at the end of the chamber before the leade, right in the 90 degree step which marks the end of the chamber.
Bore tech C4 dispatches it quickly, as discussed on other recent threads.
 
4892713D-46EA-492D-84E1-22936CEB982C.jpeg
The carbon ring is not in the throat it is at the end of the chamber before the leade, right in the 90 degree step which marks the end of the chamber.
Bore tech C4 dispatches it quickly, as discussed on other recent threads.
I have wondered about this. In the photo if there was a ring would it be where the case mouth ends?
 
Yep. Because it is right at that dimensional change it’s a little tougher to remove, used to use a 6.5 nylon brush and Iosso, now a patch wet with C4, leave it in there 10-15 min.....done.
 
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Some powders are worse than others, but carbon ring is avoidable regardless of powder, at least in my experience.

Do one of these two things:

1.) Clean the fouling out at the range, when your barrel is still warm.

2.) If the barrel has cooled down, remove excess powder fouling. Then, use bronze brushes, a carbon cleaner of your choice, until you've got patches coming out pretty clean. Follow it with an 'abrasive' such as JB Bore Paste or Iosso. It'll be free of carbon at this point.

Also, try not to let it get out of control. Part of avoiding carbon buildup is constant management.

That said, using these techniques, I've never seen a carbon ring even form in any of my barrels.

Do I understand your statement(#1) correctly that "if" I clean the bore out while still warm with wet patches and bronze brush, this should/could/maybe reduce the possibility of the dreaded carbon ring? Not trying to be a smart azz, wanting to clarify is all.
 
Do I understand your statement(#1) correctly that "if" I clean the bore out while still warm with wet patches and bronze brush, this should/could/maybe reduce the possibility of the dreaded carbon ring? Not trying to be a smart azz, wanting to clarify is all.

It's been my experience that it's easier to take care of carbon while the barrel is still warm (hotter the better). I don't do it that often, but when I do and scope afterwards it's much cleaner than doing it hours after the range. I think about it like cooking...real easy to remove burnt on crap from a skillet while it's still hot. Doing it after it's cool is going to take a lot more effort.

If you're cleaning while cold, I don't personally think that any chemical alone 'disolves' hard carbon very well (and yes, I use BT C4); residual powder fouling is a different story. Hard carbon though, I've thrown everything at muzzle brakes/suppressor mounts with some nasty stuff on them, and it still takes some scrubbing action to really get them clean; actual carbon requires brushing (in my opinion, and via my borescope's)

You don't have to go crazy, but patches and chemical alone don't do it for me if the gun has cooled.
 
If you have the original reamer , gently , gently turn that in and check again . I know I'll get reamed , hammered , what ever the term for unorthodox cleaning but when everything else fails , this works . And so far no reamer harm . I usually soften the carbon first , then just mark the reamer as to not go too far and a couple of turns with finger pressure and it's like new .
 
It's been my experience that it's easier to take care of carbon while the barrel is still warm (hotter the better). I don't do it that often, but when I do and scope afterwards it's much cleaner than doing it hours after the range. I think about it like cooking...real easy to remove burnt on crap from a skillet while it's still hot. Doing it after it's cool is going to take a lot more effort.

If you're cleaning while cold, I don't personally think that any chemical alone 'disolves' hard carbon very well (and yes, I use BT C4); residual powder fouling is a different story. Hard carbon though, I've thrown everything at muzzle brakes/suppressor mounts with some nasty stuff on them, and it still takes some scrubbing action to really get them clean; actual carbon requires brushing (in my opinion, and via my borescope's)

You don't have to go crazy, but patches and chemical alone don't do it for me if the gun has cooled.

I usually clean my rifles at the range since I already have the gun out and in a stable position, etc., just as soon as I finish with that particular firearm, so while the barrel is warm but never to hot to hold my hand on.
 
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I usually run wet patches down the bore at the range while heated up before I put it back in the case. The only time I don't do it is when I forget my cleaning rod, like yesterday....
 
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On the 'hot barrel before cleaning' point, every couple hundred rounds I pour boiling water into the bore before a thorough clean.

I use an empty case with the head cut off, this lets me stick a length of plastic tube into the case and at the other end I have the funnel. The case with the tube attached just goes into the chamber and I pour in the water via the funnel. A few patches to dry then the cleaning starts.

Seems to help.
 

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