Carbon ring and bolt lift??

[Texas Solo]

I just put a swab soaked in Kroil into the throat. Leaving it sit overnight to help soften it.
May repeat the process with JB or Losso

 

[Littlecooner]

I vote for the use of oil on the locking lugs instead of grease, after that string of 15 and warm action, the oil is gone. I thought everyone used grease on the locking lugs.

 

[FNSafari]

It's not the brass. Alpha has been fine for the first 300 rds.

Regarding you comment about "something about the .200 point at the base" my last reamer, on the advice of Randy Robinett, I made that .200 point in front of the base about .001" larger.

 

[K22]

Free standing oil can create hydraulic pressure and should be removed from the chamber and bolt.

I found that wiping the bolt with a cotton flannel cloth which had been lightly treated with Hoppe's (mineral) oil provides sufficient protection against corrosion.

As far as bolt grease, I know this is standard practice and I did it for years myself. However, I found that it accelerated the accumulation of "carbon mud" in the recess areas of the lugs. So, I stop using it and have had no galling of the lugs. Basically, a chamber and bolt devoid of oil and grease works best for me.

I agree with the other posters, this is not a "carbon ring" issue. All my rifles have "carbon rings" but they shoot just fine. Just asked the 2,014 groundhogs that went to groundhog Valhalla, and they will attest to that fact. The functionally of my rifles and results of paper show no affects even with thousands of rounds through several different varmint rifles.

I had a Weatherby Vanguard that performed the same way as yours, hard bolt lift that was traced to tool marks on the chamber. Once the smith polished the chamber, the problem disappeared.

 

[boltfluter]

I vote for the use of oil on the locking lugs instead of grease, after that string of 15 and warm action, the oil is gone. I thought everyone used grease on the locking lugs.

This is the first place to check. As the oil breaks down friction on lug surfaces will increase, and so will the required force needed on your bolt handle. High pressure grease is what you need. In my opinion.
Paul

 

[drover]

An easy and simple troubleshoot would be to grease the bolt lugs and see it the issue still exists after 15 - 20 shots. If it isn't you know what is causing the problem, if the problem is still there you know it isn't a lack of grease issue.

drover

 

[BoydAllen]

Virtually all of the manufacturers that I am aware of recommend grease for bolt lubrication. There are three places on a bolt that I keep greased, the backs of the lugs (thin film, no excess), the shroud threads or bayonet area, and the cocking cam. The latter two areas can be applied more generously than the lugs. I have never had a problem caused by greasing these areas. The shroud grease stays pretty well. I apply fresh grease to the lugs and cocking cam every time I clean a rifle.

 

[D-4297]

^^^^^^ WHAT HE SAID !
When I first got my Kelby .308 ; I was having similar problems with increasingly heavier Bolt lift as I progressed through my "strings" . Another wise , experienced shooter explained greasing the areas of the bolt mentioned , so when I cleaned the Bolt that evening , the only grease I could find was some White Lithium in a tube . I greased all the areas Boyd suggested , and from then on , the only time I have bolt lift issues , is if I get a case that didn't "Bump" down , correctly .

 

[Bill Norris]

A good grade of grease will remain on the bolt lugs while most oils will soon wipe off.

 

[Hohn]

Folks, grease isn’t grease. The variations and different compositions of grease will blow your mind. There a greases that separate, greases that don’t. Greases with moly, greases without. Lithium base, aluminum base, etc etc.


Based on the research I’ve done, I’ve arrived at a simple rule of thumb. If it’s sliding contact, it gets moly-containing grease. If it’s mostly rolling contact (i.e. wheel bearings) it gets Lucas Xtra polyurea based grease. If I’m not sure, it gets the lucas polyuyrea. There’s more harm in using moly where you shouldn’t than in going without it where you should.

If you are greasing lugs (and you should be), the grease you want to use frankly is brake grease. It is designed for high temperatures and specifically has anti-galling properties. Most brake grease has moly in it which is why it’s so dark and smells terrible. Apply a super thin layer— brake greases don’t separate. Don’t use any grease that separates in a firearm.

 

[Murray Brook]

Would Rig gun grease be of any value for the lugs.

 

[Hohn]

Honda HN 08798-9010 MOLY PASTE (M77) https://a.co/d/0czfMwo

GOODSON Synthetic Hi-Temp Brake Lube https://a.co/d/2rYBG7h

 

[762willdo]

What does the bullet look like on round 15 if you chamber it lock bolt into battery or then remove round from chamber sounds like your Seating into the lands and when your barrel heats up it grips the bullet a little harder…..

 

[jpjulian]

Grease the back of the bolt lugs. Seems to be the overwhelming consensus. You might back the load off slightly also. Pressure may be building as heat builds up.

 

[Texas Solo]

What does the bullet look like on round 15 if you chamber it lock bolt into battery or then remove round from chamber sounds like your Seating into the lands and when your barrel heats up it grips the bullet a little harder…..

No, I'm-.015 off the lands. Even so, that wouldn't make a heavier bolt lift POST firing the round.

 

[Hohn]

What does the bullet look like on round 15 if you chamber it lock bolt into battery or then remove round from chamber sounds like your Seating into the lands and when your barrel heats up it grips the bullet a little harder…..

Steel expands when heated. The grip would loosen with heat

 

[6.5 forever]

I vote for the use of oil on the locking lugs instead of grease, after that string of 15 and warm action, the oil is gone. I thought everyone used grease on the locking lugs.

Grease in warm weather. I shoot thru winter extremes and then use a light oil.

 

[quest450]