• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Can't keep action screws tight on Savage 111

I am having difficulty with action screws remaining tight. The rifle is a Savage 111 in 30-06 caliber, with composite stock that has imbeded pillers. I can shoot 3-4 rounds without it loosening noticably, but about the 5th round the front action screw backs out about 5 inch pounds. If I shoot 20 rounds, it will back out 10-15 inch pounds.

If you have experienced loosening action screws, what did you do to keep this from happening?

Thank you in advance.

Gene Pool
 
Not to be flippant, but a lot of times lubrication can prevent machine screws from staying torqued. I would try to clean them with some type of degreaser, and then try again. I have had screws in other applications have this problem.
 
Delubing them is a good idea as suggested.
If that fails a little Lock tight might help. In a pinch I've heard the little ladies fingernail polish can be substituted.
How tight are you torqing them originally? Have you tried gorilla tight?

Bottom Line. If your screws are loosening constantly I'll bet theres a poor fit between action/recoil lug and stock.
Gorilla tight might keep them tight but accuracy will still suffer.
The problem with those cheap plastic stocks is finding a bedding agent that will adhere to them with long term reliability.
Lots of recoil in a 30-06. Things gotta be right.
 
I also concur with jo191145,he is right. I would consider going to stockys and look at what is available.The tupperware stocks are way spongier nowadays as the compaanys are looking at cost savings.I own at least 6 savages and have restocked all but one. Incidently the bolts should be torqued to 35 inch pounds and that will still squeeze the stock and collapse it some.Use #242 loctite. Clean the holes with brakleen and let dry and add 1 drop of 242 to each blot.Allow about 2 hours to cure.Hope this helps. One other note is I have seen those factory pillars actually loosen there bond to the cheap plastic.
 
Torque stetting on any fasteners is not quite as simple as it appears. A quality torque wrench that is graduated in the mid-range of the required setting is a must. (even the best should be checked for accuracy periodically). Click type wrenches are readily available graduated in inch pounds (pounds inch is the correct but seldom used nomenclature). Beam wrenches are far more rugged but I know of no 'beam' types in inch pounds.
Any lubrication on a clean fastener changes the value needed. There is much data on what % to reduce torque values in relation to the type of lube. It is quite startling to read these changes in regards to how much they can alter the torque. Most values are given for a CLEAN unlubed fastener. http://www.arp-bolts.com/ is a great site to read about this and ARP is a highly respected source for quality fasteners and their free brochure is loaded with information along with charts for proper torquing. They don't go into the size used in firearms but the basics are the same.
A quality thread locker such as Loctite ( I like the red--which can be easily removed with heat application). Loctite (as well as ARP) makes thread cleaners which shows the importance of having a spotless starting point.
None of these make up for poor quality fasteners but with the fine threads used in firearms the actual contact surface is quite large and the purpose of thread lockers (Loctite) is to fill the voids between the threads in the complete fastener making for a quite secure clamping between the screw and nut.
Years ago I could not keep a scope mount on a .44Mag pistol tight until I followed the complete procedure from cleaning to torquing. A small drop of paint on the screw head allowed me at a glance to see what if anything moved without having to recheck torque. If it moved the drop of paint was cracked.
Torque wrenches should not be used for loosening. (Certain beam types excepted).
 
Pull the bolts out, clean them and then visually inspect them under perhaps some low magnification ( 5-10X) to evaluate the surface finish of the bolt threads. A rough surface finish will give inaccurate ( higher) results than a smooth surface finish. If they appear rough replace them. Similar evaluation should be done for the internal threads of the pillars.
 
M-61 put forth a good idea.
You might want to put a small hash mark on the offending screw head.
See if the screw is actually backing out or the stock is compressing/deforming under recoil.
Chances might not be high but it costs nothing to check.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,153
Messages
2,190,783
Members
78,728
Latest member
Zackeryrifleman
Back
Top