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Can the legendary Dillon 550B be improved or modified?

Been sorting through lots of online ideas lately. Seems the 550 has tons of potential modifications to improve it's function. Heard of folks polishing certain parts to reduce friction. Read where someone polished the primer charging bar with frog lube. A guy on YouTube made a customized longer primer bearing plate to reduce/prevent torquing. Some other guy bumped up the fixed pin that the spring attaches to under primer bar to improve functioning. Polishing powder funnels or even using 1050 funnels in 550's to reduce sticking on the upstroke.

There are roller handles and LED light kits. Then there is the near famous safety pin or paper clip substitute for the cotter pin on the spent primer shute. I have seen the Hit Factor sprocket with ball bearing kit, and heard of folks just using ball bearing washers alone. Some folks say to remove the spring clip on station one all together. It is finicky at times. So many ideas out there. I just got mine running the other week, but I am already eager to improve certain aspects of the machine.

I am loading 223 and 10 mm. Setting up 9 mm and 40 S&W in coming weeks. Never thought reloading would be as much fun as shooting. What have you done to improve your Dillon? Please be specific so other greenhorns like me can employ your ideas. I know my cart is in front of my horse. Just seemed like a fun thread to start and I am certain you more experienced guys can help the guys out there like me wade through the BS.


Pics are always appreciated ;)




Dan
 
there is a BIG difference in the two words...improve and modify.

go online and there is a big series on modifing FOR IMPROVED ACCURACY of rifle ammo...but it has its cost as the press becomes less quick to change out of a caliber.

the powder bolt adjuster can be replaced with a micrometer or just a plastic knob fitted over the bolt head.

nothing wrong with deburring parts.....my last 550 had an issue with the thru bolt and the star for rotating the shell holder binding, a little work with a file and all was well.

i see ZERO need for a light.......it is a machine with fixed linkage, if you stroke it , it drops a powder charge.
i do not do large stick powders, so i have no issues there.
i am on my 5th 550......i like them( i had 2 rebuilt by dillon after 12 years of heavy use, sold them and bought 2 new ones...because i could.)
 
My 550B has given me almost 20 years of great service, and still going strong. If I have a problem with a part I call Dillon and they ship me a new one...no charge!! Now that's a great company!!
 
I bought my '550' when they came with a serial number and you had to buy from a dealer. The original machine was the RL-450 since there was nothing else when purchased in '83. I can't begin to imagine how much ammo mine has loaded. Its been steadily upgraded and improved thru the years (first to the RL-450B, then auto primer and auto powder measure - several variations of auto powder measure, redesigned, stronger crank, changeable tool head frame, and finally, my last improvement being the case feeder. My production rate has increased about 20% with the case feeder. Thing thats not obvious about the case feeder - it only does pistol and its the type of add on you don't want to be taking on and off. If I had fully appreciated that, I probably wouldn't have bought it. It did speed up my production rate about 20% .

Most of what you refer to as improvements come from problems due to the machine just being new - tight and some casting flash here and there. After it really gets well broken in, most issues go away. The sticking primer bar - have to keep it clean - spent primer residue is gritty and will eventually affect powder bar. I just clean it routinely, usually every time I stop to add more primers. I load over a 5gal plastic bucket and keep a long haired brush handy - a few quick flicks with the brush keeps primer area clean and functioning. See no need for increased spring tension, would be concerned about speeding up the bar return to the point it would cause primes to jar out of the cup or flip over in the cup when it stops. I'm unimpressed with the roller bearing I bought - proper adjustment of the shell plate bolt and a touch of grease under the flange duplicates most of what the bearing does. I found the alum roller handle well worth the price, especially for long reloading sessions. Wouldn't be without mine.

My 550 is bench mounted and I have a 3-way fluorescent desk lamp mounted on that side of the bench. When loading, I can pull the light over and light up the interior area of the press. Nothing wrong with plenty of light. Those LEDs are another way of doing the same thing. You have to learn to focus on what you're doing and make sure there are NO interruptions - those tend to cause empty rounds. My 550 is situated and the chair I use is adjusted so I can look into pistol cases easily and make sure every round is powdered. When I used th 550 for rifle loading, I'd slow down enough to verify powder in the cases. If the press has a criticism is that its almost too easy to produced empty rounds. I've helped set up over a dozen of these presses at others houses and they've all had probs with making rounds without powder.
 
Thank you for your insights. As I first used mine two weeks ago, hearing from experienced folks like you is fantastic.



One of the slickest primer bar fixes I have seen....

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zI7HpdHvlco
 
One quick question guys, what is the secret to getting that clip in place on station one? I end up fumbling 2-3 cases out of 10 just trying to put it in station one. The clip of wire just seems to be in the way. Is there a sweet spot? Do folks just throw it out? Seems like a PIA at any rate.



Dan
 
2 items that I would recommend are

1. The floating tool head from John Whidden who is a site sponsor. Cost is about $55. Helps with much more concentric rounds for my 223 rounds. Reduced handle pressure during resizing and more consistent bullet seating.

2. Got a $10 LED light from IKEA. Helps to check if case has powder
 
If you watch the vid you liked about the primer plate, you can see a properly adjusted clip. This is how I adjust mine - place a piece of brass in station on with the clip holding screw loose enough so the clip can be adjusted in and out. Run the ram up until the brass is engaged with the station one die - this centers the brass in the station, now move the clip in or out to barely touch the brass and back off a smidge. The clip shouldn't touch the brass, but should be almost touching.

I have a dremel tool and can remember taking my primer housing an polishing off anything where it was not smooth to the touch on any sliding surface. The bars I have are coated with a black , slick coating (teflon?) that reduces friction further. I have never had problems with the primer assembly. There is some tolerance with the fit of the primer assembly when you mount it - I just barely tighten the two screws and then give the handle a stroke or two to let the primer assembly center itself within that tolerance and then tighten it down. You might also try tightening the assembly when the handle is down - bottom line, you will learn what works for you and your 550.
 
I have owned and used Dillon reloaders since 1981. I started with a RL-450, and Dillon upgraded it to a RL-450B at no charge. I later bought a frame upgrade from a RL-450 to a RL-550. I have since bought a second RL-550 leaving one set up for large primers and the other for small primers. I have since purchased two RL-1050s again one set up for large primers and the other small. I have a MA Systems collator feeding one equipped with Fowler bullet feeder for loading 45 acps and the other set up with a Howell collator for feeding a Fowler bullet feeder with .223 bullets. Both RL-1050s are capable of loading 3000 rounds per hour. Dillon has replaced the primer assemblies and powder measures on both the R-550 at no charge. I love the Dillon lifetime no BS warranty. I would not own any other progressive.
Nat Lambeth
 
I have had a 550B since the early 90's and loaded tens of thousands of pistol and rifle cases. Dillon has replaced many worn parts for no charge.
 

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