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Can I Fix This ????

Okay, I bought an unfired custom 6.5 Creedmoor for my grandson's birthday. The original owner sold it to me unfired, with no scope mounted. Build was on a 700 SA (supposedly blueprinted), nicely bedded in McM stock. 2B Bart, chamber, lands to muzzle all look great.

On to the problem, I'm lucky to get it to beat 3-4 moa @ 100 yds. I gone thru all the normal checks on screws, bases, scopes, adjusted action screw torque, 120-140 pills with H-4350, Varget, rl-16. No change to groups. No brake, so no deflection. A stripped bolt will not fall without thumb pressure. With a new case, it takes more pressure, dragging all the way.IMG_20190612_143657.jpg IMG_20190612_125054.jpg

I think I've finally found the problem. "The bolt cone is hitting the barrel" and "the recoil lug is contacting the rear of lug recess equally, as it should, but is also contacting on front of bolt lugs".

My question is can I stone the face and rim of the cone to clear it and the front of both front lug faces enough to halt contact? Or do I have a larger problem with action/ barrel concentricity?

I was planning on marking up the bolt and going slow with honing it, until I have clearance with a chambered case. But, before I start, I want to hear opinions from the "brain trust".
 
From the picture it indicates the bolt is rubbing on the .705 counterbore and you say also it rubs on the front of the lugs. Since a stripped bolt does not fall without help is a clear indication that you have clearance issues. Since this rifle was purchased for your grandson I would not feel comfortable letting him (or anyone for that matter) shoot this rifle until you are sure everything is correct. The obvious answer is take it to a gunsmith to have all the dimensions checked out and corrected. It is worth the piece of mind and assuming the chamber is put in correctly and the barrel is good quality have a rifle that performs the way it should.

I know this is not what you wanted to hear and stoning may get enough clearance to free up the bolt but it makes one wonder what else could be wrong if these basic barrel clearances were not correct. Hopefully it is a quick fix and you have a nice rifle to hand your grandson!

Kris
 
I read your post again and noticed the barrel is a Bartlein....you should have no problem with the barrel. Get the clearances fixed and enjoy! My 6.5 Creed with a Bartlein loves any good bullet (Hornady, Sierra, Berger, etc...) from 130g-140g with somewhere around 42g of H4350 and a small jump (.010"-.020"). As always start low and work up. Good luck.

Kris
 
From the picture it indicates the bolt is rubbing on the .705 counterbore and you say also it rubs on the front of the lugs. Since a stripped bolt does not fall without help is a clear indication that you have clearance issues. Since this rifle was purchased for your grandson I would not feel comfortable letting him (or anyone for that matter) shoot this rifle until you are sure everything is correct. The obvious answer is take it to a gunsmith to have all the dimensions checked out and corrected. It is worth the piece of mind and assuming the chamber is put in correctly and the barrel is good quality have a rifle that performs the way it should.

I know this is not what you wanted to hear and stoning may get enough clearance to free up the bolt but it makes one wonder what else could be wrong if these basic barrel clearances were not correct. Hopefully it is a quick fix and you have a nice rifle to hand your grandson!

Kris
Thank you, what you said is definitely in my mind. I want it to be safe and I won't peddle it to another, or allow my grandson to shoot it, until it's perfect.

The bolt was going to Carlsbad for an overall upgrade, when I had load work-up finished, but ran into this.
 
Thank you, what you said is definitely in my mind. I want it to be safe and I won't peddle it to another, or allow my grandson to shoot it, until it's perfect.

The bolt was going to Carlsbad for an overall upgrade, when I had load work-up finished, but ran into this.

Its a great idea to send the bolt to carlsbad but get all the other issues fixed first.
 
The clearances are not spec on that barrel fitting, not good at all. Barrel needs to be re-qualified. I wouldn't even worry about the "blueprint" job. When this barrel is fitted properly it should be a dang fine shooter. I would for sure have the barrel fixer check those bolt lugs for even contact.
 
The clearances are not spec on that barrel fitting, not good at all. Barrel needs to be re-qualified. I wouldn't even worry about the "blueprint" job. When this barrel is fitted properly it should be a dang fine shooter. I would for sure have the barrel fixer check those bolt lugs for even contact.
Good advice, Thanks
 
Besides the bolt issue, it sounds like headspace is a bit tight since resistance increases when closing the bolt on a new case.
 
Before we get our torches lit we need to know what the actual problem is. It does appear by the pictures to not be trued and rubbing the counterbore. Maybe in reality the guy didnt pay for blueprinting and its really not hitting THIS barrel- maybe thats rub marks from the factory barrel- who knows. Maybe it was some misunderstanding with the previous owner and buyer and work done.
 
"Before we get our torches lit we need to know what the actual problem is."

Sensible approach, perhaps a Texas forum member with the appropriate experience could take a look and recommend the appropriate solution.
 
Accuracy at the MOA level is all in the barrel. You're looking at the 1/4 MOA issues.
 
Okay guys, let's not get carried away. I got some helpful posts here and some some input from two smith's I trust. The consensus is to relieve the offending surfaces and shoot it for groups. If it still won't group, have my smith pull the barrel and correct the problem. Makes sense to me.

The action was pulled off a new donor rifle and blueprinted by the smith and a barrel chambered and threaded. I wasn't there, nor was the seller, so we can't speak to what really happened.

The seller never fired the rifle. He's more upset than I am and said he would cover all costs to make it right.

For all I know, this rifle is the only bad one the smith ever built and I won't be responsible for harming his business, based on one rifle. Everyone of us has made mistakes, so he'll remain unnamed.

I will update this thread when the rifle is 100%. Thanks to all.
 
Okay guys, let's not get carried away. I got some helpful posts here and some some input from two smith's I trust. The consensus is to relieve the offending surfaces and shoot it for groups. If it still won't group, have my smith pull the barrel and correct the problem. Makes sense to me.

The action was pulled off a new donor rifle and blueprinted by the smith and a barrel chambered and threaded. I wasn't there, nor was the seller, so we can't speak to what really happened.

The seller never fired the rifle. He's more upset than I am and said he would cover all costs to make it right.

For all I know, this rifle is the only bad one the smith ever built and I won't be responsible for harming his business, based on one rifle. Everyone of us has made mistakes, so he'll remain unnamed.

I will update this thread when the rifle is 100%. Thanks to all.

Well said. You are a good and wise man.
 

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