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Bushing / Neck Tension issue.


Check this out I did a search on line and this came up online for use on brass. Looks pretty good.


found it again on you tube. about $1200 less than the popular one
 
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Check this out I did a search on line and this came up online for use on brass. Looks pretty good.


found it again on you tube. about $1200 less than the popular one
Yes, that has been featured here on the forum in the past and is a step up from say gas annealing but still featuring guess work and is NOT faster than “the popular one”…
My AMP will accurately anneal about 10-14 cases a minute, at the same rate as the device in the video, depending on the size of the case and it will be “Spot On” as far as being consistently annealed. The “accessory” shell holders are a one off buy and the system keeps the case exactly in the correct zone for annealing, ie. not too low/high and in the center of the coil, that has to be just guessed at while you are holding that coil setup and guessing how much annealing has happened to the brass.
Colour is not a clear indication of the amount of annealing that has taken place and different pieces even in the same batch of brass will vary just slightly.
There is a reason that the AMP costs what it does and what the $200 one does…
 
I use the FL Bushing and Mandrel technique for all competition calibres. With the Alpha Dasher, brass I had to use the mandrel from new (243) to open the brass enough to size with a 269 bushing. I now use a 267 bushing and a 2425 mandrel to give me a consistent .0015 tension. I anneal with an AMP every time. I'm using the same tension for Alpha 6BR too. Both shoot well with Sierra 107's 14 thou off and Varget.
 
I’m with you, it takes me a few cycles to get my brass all evened out and shooting consistently so the last thing I’m going to do is take a blow torch to a perfectly good case and ruin my bullet hold.
Jim I Anneal ever firing both Lapua and alpha.
Here’s sundays test tune session. 6BRA, N140, 105 Berger federal GM primer, alpha 5 firings, flame annealed.
 

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Here's a pic of my nephews 7 mag hunting rifle with non annealed ADG brass sized with bushing only shooting V568 powder 180 Bergers at 665 yards doing a seating depth test.
The circled one is -.010 from touch, the 3 above is - .007 from touch.
Shot 1- 3013fps, shot 2- 3016 fps and shot 3- 3010 fps.
For reference that white circle is 1.5", the 3 shots measure just over a 1"
 

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I started playing with neck tension recently for my 6BRA. I started with a Wilson 266 bushing and it gives me ~0.003" interference from loaded, and the sized neck comes in at 0.2660-0.2665" with calipers, loaded round is 0.2690-0.2695" (yes, I know I should be using a micrometer and Christmas is coming, so that will solve that issue...). Then I ordered a Wilson 267 and found a good deal on a Redding TiN 265. The 267 gives me 0.2670-0.2675", but the TiN 265 is giving me 0.2630-2635". I had heard that the Redding TiN bushing sized a bit large, but I found the exact opposite. I ran gauge pins in all of them and they're right where they should be, within 0.0002". So I ordered a Wilson 265 bushing and got the exact same result; 0.2630-0.2635". And it feels like that much more interference when seating a bullet. This seems like the opposite of spring back. This is with both Alpha and Lapua brass, flame annealed. What am I seeing/missing here?
Tension isn't a diameter measurement. I guess it's the best we can do. Make them all the same.
 

Check this out I did a search on line and this came up online for use on brass. Looks pretty good.


found it again on you tube. about $1200 less than the popular one
I wonder if thats an aluminium loading block? if its plastic it wont last long.
 
so my testing has shown that in fact more hold is better for my set up and I have the targets that prove it
That 7 mag is shooting .0045 nk tension ( interference) as is most of the 8 LR hunting rigs i load for. One is .003 rest are. 004- .005
 
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Tension isn't a diameter measurement. I guess it's the best we can do. Make them all the same.
Agreed. Annealing, or degree thereof, is probably more influential. I was more curious as to why I was getting more or less matching bushing diameter for the 267 and 266, to 2 thou under bushing diameter for the 265s. Not fully annealed?
 
I am another who does not anneal. I use Lapua and Peterson brass. Lifetime with them has been around 30 reloads before I retire them.

The 6BR has shown SD's in the 4-8 range since I got it. If the SD is over 10 I know something is wrong with the load. ES is normally below 20 and frequently under 15. I've had more than a few 5 shot groups with 3 of the vel being the same. This is all with a Forester FL size die, no mandrel just the factory button. I've never measured them.

I wish my shooting was as consistent :) And I wish the .223 was just as 'easy'. :)
 
I’m with you, it takes me a few cycles to get my brass all evened out and shooting consistently so the last thing I’m going to do is take a blow torch to a perfectly good case and ruin my bullet hold.

What do you mean it takes a few cycles to get your brass evened out, can you explain ? I’d like to get off the anneal every firing train
 
There is a curve to brass hardness as it is worked. It changes most in the first workings of the brass. The more it is 'stressed' the quicker this happens. This is the same as bending a piece of brass back and forth until it breaks. Bend it 90deg and it doesn't take long. If you bend it 10deg it takes many more cycles to break.

3 to 5 firings seems to be the 'knee of the curve' for hardness. After that it changes much less over time, ie, it becomes somewhat consistent in hardness. The real answer is, it depends on the pressures in the chamber, the size of the chamber relative to your dies (ie, how much you size down), how much you expand, and the thickness of the brass.

That's why some say you only have to anneal every 3 or 4 shots, others want to anneal after every shot and the rest don't anneal at all.

The debate mainly centers around neck tension and how to maintain tension consistently. Brass hardness affects neck tension so it is something that needs to be considered for precision reloading.

Secondary to that is brass life. Working the brass over time will cause it to crack. If you anneal each time you avoid that issue. But, some of us get many reloads out of brass that is never annealed.
 
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