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Bumping .223 shoulder on RL550

brokeasajoke

Silver $$ Contributor
Up until today I've run nothing but pistol on my 550 press. The jumping into the Dillon blue waters thread got me thinking I need to set up for .223 as well. Work was closed due to water issues today, so I thought I'd get a tool head set up for .223 Rem. Got my trusty Hornady headspace kit out and proceeded to set up the sizing die and that's as far as I made it. In order to push the shoulder back .003 I have to hit the shell plate then about an 1/8th to 1/4 turn more to get that .003. this was not shot out of my rifle and was range pick-ups. I don't have the rifle with me that these are for so I can not check function but these will be for night coyote hunting so reliability is a concern. I just feels like way to much flex and cam over on this press for me to be comfortable with. Is it just me being an idiot and continue, should I have some taken off the bottom of my sizing die or is there a better size for this application? I only have about 3/4 worth of threads on the lock ring but that should be a plenty one would think. Thanks all.
 
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So I use other folks' brass on my 550 without too much issue. I use a standard Redding S die, but deprime prior. I've also drilled and tapped some of the toolheads to take an 8-32 set screw. I don't need a lock ring. The die must be pretty tight SAAMI-spec wise, as I've not encountered too many that wouldn't gauge. Gotta have a gauge.... Absolutely no issues with this setup.
 
I'd cut the sizer die. I would not want to stress the stage like you are doing. I'd also just move my lock ring UNDER my tool head if I only had 3/4 of a thread inside my lock ring.
Looks like the lock ring will contact the press body first and not the tool head. Great thought on that one but my tool head and die body are not flush with each other on the bottom. It's 3/4 of the thickness of the lock nut not a single thread.
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So I use other folks' brass on my 550 without too much issue. I use a standard Redding S die, but deprime prior. I've also drilled and tapped some of the toolheads to take an 8-32 set screw. I don't need a lock ring. The die must be pretty tight SAAMI-spec wise, as I've not encountered too many that wouldn't gauge. Gotta have a gauge.... Absolutely no issues with this setup.
I've got two different FL sizers and Ive got to hit the shell plate plus some with both to get any movement on the shoulder. About a 1/4 turn more gives me .004.
 
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Spoke to my local machine shop contact and never heard back from him but he is a busy man. So as I was tired of waiting, I put a Roloc disk on my die grinder and began removing some on the bottom of die. A little at a time all the while twisting the die on the disk and stopping often to measure. I have 2 FL .223 dies so if I screwed it up I wouldn't be at a stand still. I finally got it to where I can bump without having to cam over then put it on some diamond polishing paper on a flat hard surface and buffed it by hand. As a side note, how I run the press greatly varies how I bump and how much dwell time I give each case. The longer I hold, the more bump I get which I assume is spring back memory. I know my dial caliper is only good for .001 but different stations can vary half a mark on the caliper. I "believe" I used all the same brand of brass which was PMC but some random something could have snuck in on me. Are there dedicated case gages or is it just a ammo checker that I can drop it in for checking the sized case?
 
I have some cam over on my 223 setup on my 550 and have not found it to be a problem.
 
I’ve not figured out how to get consistency bumping shoulders on a progressive. No matter the lube, annealing, dwelling, nothing.

On a single stage, every one is perfect, within 5/10s.

I’d love to know if/how people are!!
I like the single stage anyway because I still have to tumble the lube off. I run a 550b and load .223 brass that's already sized, trimmed and primed.

In fact, everything I load on my progressive starts with primed brass. It goes a lot smoother when you don't have to fight primer seating, primer tubes, etc.
 
I like the single stage anyway because I still have to tumble the lube off. I run a 550b and load .223 brass that's already sized, trimmed and primed.

In fact, everything I load on my progressive starts with primed brass. It goes a lot smoother when you don't have to fight primer seating, primer tubes, etc.
A two tool head process setup per caliber would be ideal. A tool head for prep with the Dillon electric trimmer and a separate tool head for loading would sure be nice especially for bulk .223.
 
I will be setting up my new RL550C for 223 soon, still running 9mm now. I plan to continue sizing on my single stage press as I prefer to fully prep my 223/5.56 cases, decap, size (shoulder bump is set on my Redding full length die with carbide button), trim on the Wilson trimmer, cut crimp out with RCBS cutter on my Lyman case prep machine and obviously chamfer in and out. It will still be miles ahead of loading powder, seating then crimping I have been doing for years on my Lyman TMag II turret press.
 
A two tool head process setup per caliber would be ideal. A tool head for prep with the Dillon electric trimmer and a separate tool head for loading would sure be nice especially for bulk .223.
I run the Giraud Trimmer. So I take the beating on single stage sizing, trimming, and hand prime with a Sinclair priming tool.

It's a beating, but after that I can burn it up on the progressive.
 
Got my trusty Hornady headspace kit out and proceeded to set up the sizing die and that's as far as I made it. In order to push the shoulder back .003 I have to hit the shell plate then about an 1/8th to 1/4 turn more to get that .003. this was not shot out of my rifle and was range pick-ups.

It'll get worse (well, maybe not worse, but different.)

When you are setting up, you typically are using only that station. Once you start running, you have the additional stresses of the sizing, seating, etc. on the press. That changes things as well. You may find you need a tad more "down" on your dies to compensate once the press is loaded up. And mixed brass (fired in different chambers to different pressures) will screw with that even more.
 
I’d sure like to see someone full length size, bump shoulders consistently (.0005 either way), on a progressive. Not saying it’s impossible. I hope it is possible. Because if I could I would. Anything that makes brass prep suck less is priceless.
 
It'll get worse (well, maybe not worse, but different.)

When you are setting up, you typically are using only that station. Once you start running, you have the additional stresses of the sizing, seating, etc. on the press. That changes things as well. You may find you need a tad more "down" on your dies to compensate once the press is loaded up. And mixed brass (fired in different chambers to different pressures) will screw with that even more.
I run all stations multiple times until I was happy Sunday afternoon.
 
broke,

Try the UniqueTek tool head locking system. Gets rid of the tool head float and allows floating or locking the dies into place. I ended up installing it on all my dies, and all the dies a buddy had.

I found I could not use the vacuum adapters with any other dies on the trim die. They interfered with the dies. I haven't tried the Giraud cutter, but sounds like a good idea. Adjustment for each cartridge might be a problem.

HTH,
DocBII
 
I’ve not figured out how to get consistency bumping shoulders on a progressive. No matter the lube, annealing, dwelling, nothing.

On a single stage, every one is perfect, within 5/10s.

I’d love to know if/how people are!!
I have made 1000s of 20 VTs from LC 5.56 on a 650 Dillon.

There is a significant difference in shoulder setback and retention relative to the degree of annealing. Shoulders are also inconsistent if annealing is insufficient.

Try annealing to a deeper ruby red if using propane.

Alcohol/lanolin mixture also improved shoulder consistency for me.
 
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