Bulletin article on cant

[JSH]

I am wondering if there is wrong or right way to level a rifle.
I have seen some mention that they mount their rifle canted, so that is the angle they level at.
I have read not to level off of a scope base or flats of rings. Then have see not to level off of turrets.

Right, wrong or indifferent, is it just a constant reference point?

 

[Walt Krafft]

Leveling the sighting system of a rifle has the advantage of a constant windage as the distance increases. For known distance shooting where the sights can be adjusted to known values for both elevation and windage, leveling doesn't mean squat as long as what ever cant the rifle has is consistent. Those games where distance is not known or constantly changing get simplified if elevation is the only variable. So decide what cant the rifle will be consistently held at and level the scope to that.

 

[Eagle Six]

I think most methods I have seen/read are close enough for most. With that said I have seen a lot of rifle systems that the base was not plumb with the reticle, as the turret caps were not plumb with the receiver, etc.

Regardless of the method used, as one develops and adjust their ballistics calculator from actual results on target the level may have to be adjusted to provide repeatable results. And, as Walt states, for those that like to cant the rifle, establishing a repeatable cant is the key to better results.

 

[Tesoro]

As said above, if you want to shoot at a comfortable cant then do it for fixed distance zero only. But if you want to be able to dial for varying distances then the rifle and the stadia need to be both level on the vertical and use of a scope or receiver mounted bubble level while shooting helps. A few degrees of cant at 1000 in 6mm is around 10 inches off!

I like to start by removing rings and level off the receiver and then mate it to a wheeler barrel clamp level. Then you can mount rings/scope and align stadia off a plumb bob. If all is good your stadia should be vertical to plumb while the barrel bubble is centered. Then you can add a scope/receiver level and adjust it level to the plumb bob.

 

[K22]

In my opinion, this is an important issue for both mounting a scope and when shooting the rifle. The longer the distance, the more pronounced the adverse effect of canting can be.

While I don't have a level mounted on the scope when shooting, I believe it is a good idea for long range shooting. Even without the level, I pay special attention to holding the rifle to avoid canting. This is one of my checklist items for precision shooting each shot.

As far as a "right" way to mount the scope, I can only offer what works for me. I mount my scopes, so the reticle is level with a leveled rifle. My process is I first determine the proper eye relief, mark the scope tube with reference pencil lines at the rings. Then I level the rifle in a padded vice. Next, I level the scope with the leveled rifle making sure the eye relief reference marks are observed. I then using a "X" tightening pattern, tighten the ring screw keeping the level on the scope to make sure the tightening process does not result in canting the scope.

 

[Texas Solo]

I level the rifle off the action in a vice. Then, after determining eye relief, I hang a weighted string on the wall and rotate scope so the verticle hair splits the string. Unless the Earth's rotational axis changes, it has to be correct.

 

[Infrequent Shooter]

I level the rifle off the action in a vice. Then, after determining eye relief, I hang a weighted string on the wall and rotate scope so the verticle hair splits the string. Unless the Earth's rotational axis changes, it has to be correct.

and what part of the rifle do level with? the bolt raceway? Hope that is the correct term.

 

[Tesoro]

Use the flat top on your receiver

 

[TaperPin]

After seeing 500 yard hunters with scope levels I’ve often wondered how consistent most people naturally hold a rifle - what are the diminishing returns.

 

[Tommie]

Use the flat top on your receiver

Huh?

 

[Brians356]

Regardless of the method used, as one develops and adjust their ballistics calculator

That would be my brain ... such as it is.
-

 

[Kittitas George]

I use a level bubble on the 'bolt raceway' or the 'flat' on the bases/ mounts. Someplace I can leave the level until the scope is screwed down. I may set the level on a length of 1/4" 'key stock'. Some scopes have a level bubble to keep me consistent, I don't shoot that much long range, I'm not looking for tiny groups, I just want to hit a gopher. The string on the wall is an excellent method, plumb for sure if the rifle is level. One thing to consider is the accuracy of the level bubble you are using, that will determine the amount of error at the target distance. Most of us probably have more 'error' in our ammunition variables than error in the plumb of our scope and barrel. But, eliminate all the variables possible.

 

[Tesoro]

Huh?

Most receivers have a flat area somewhere on the top which is perpendicular to bore center.

 

[Eagle Six]

I looked for that flat and squared area on my 700 actions and have never found it.

 

[cmysix]

I level the scope too the gun, then I use a fixit stix level attached too the same rail the scope is and level that for the shot.

 

[Tesoro]

I looked for that flat and squared area on my 700 actions and have never found it.

Oh yes thats true in 700..forgot! Here is a Mod7 I have so I just use the picatinny.

 

[Eagle Six]

Production 700's are infamous for the base screw holes being off center.

 

[Dave M.]

Leveling the sighting system of a rifle has the advantage of a constant windage as the distance increases. For known distance shooting where the sights can be adjusted to known values for both elevation and windage, leveling doesn't mean squat as long as what ever cant the rifle has is consistent. Those games where distance is not known or constantly changing get simplified if elevation is the only variable. So decide what cant the rifle will be consistently held at and level the scope to that.

Leveling the rifle scope also has the advantage that when you dial elevation it moves straight up. If the scope is canted, when you increase elevation you will also most certainly be moving either right or left on the target as well.
Dave

 

[bluealtered]

First, yes it works. While we all have our own way to do it, this is the way I do it.
I find or make a level spot on my desk which has a simple plastic large cutting board on it . I then use two small travel trailer/motorhome bubbles to make sure it is level, when level I mark the spots with a felt pen where the bubbles sit so I can use those spots again.

I then use a bubble mounted on the scope as well as bubbles on both the rifle scope mount and the rifle itself to see if they are plumb together. When they are I use a plumb bob to double check it, and most importantly I remember to look at the scope mounted bubble before firing.

After doing all this I found that I have always canted the rifle before I started using this method. This method has improved my long range shooting and it may help you as well.
There are many types of bubbles out there so you should be able to find something that works for your rifle.

 

[Old Navy]

As said above, if you want to shoot at a comfortable cant then do it for fixed distance zero only. But if you want to be able to dial for varying distances then the rifle and the stadia need to be both level on the vertical and use of a scope or receiver mounted bubble level while shooting helps. A few degrees of cant at 1000 in 6mm is around 10 inches off!

I like to start by removing rings and level off the receiver and then mate it to a wheeler barrel clamp level. Then you can mount rings/scope and align stadia off a plumb bob. If all is good your stadia should be vertical to plumb while the barrel bubble is centered. Then you can add a scope/receiver level and adjust it level to the plumb bob.

Help an old dude with the definition of stadia please?