I have the same rig bat m action nxs scope as mentioned before feeler gauges underneath to keep scope square to the rifle, level on the scope to keep rifle square to the shot cheers ;D
installing scope/scope "cant"
- Thread starter 4xforfun
- Start date
Your method sounds decent to me. I calibrate my optical instruments (Brunson and Wild Heerbrugg) after looking through the test collimator I swing on to a plumb bob hanging in oil to verify. 3 arc sec. max.
I Bed the bases/rails lap the rings or just use Burris rings then twist the scope plumb to rifle referencing said plumb bob checking orientation during torqueing, they can draw.
I changed to rails primarily, I was a little surprised at how much bedding was required to ensure no bowing, even on my custom actions.
Not sure if you know the issue (canting) and just seeing what others are doing to mount scopes or asking if your poi is different for another reason or both.
Could it be different bullet for hunting changing barrel harmonics?
It's late I might just be talking gibberish, Jim
I Bed the bases/rails lap the rings or just use Burris rings then twist the scope plumb to rifle referencing said plumb bob checking orientation during torqueing, they can draw.
I changed to rails primarily, I was a little surprised at how much bedding was required to ensure no bowing, even on my custom actions.
Not sure if you know the issue (canting) and just seeing what others are doing to mount scopes or asking if your poi is different for another reason or both.
Could it be different bullet for hunting changing barrel harmonics?
It's late I might just be talking gibberish, Jim
ovenpaa
Are we shooting tomorrow?
This is the Scope Alignment System I use.
Slacken the screws on the rings until the 'scope rotates with light resistance, then slide these between the rail and the bottom of the 'scope and push them together with finger and thumb whilst rocking the 'scope gently, when the 'scope stops rocking it is level with the base, slide the alignment system out, tighten the screws and check once more, a visual check with a torch as a light source works for me.
I prefer to set my 'scope alignment sitting down with the rifle across my knees, it removes all chance of cant and I can set a 'scope up in under 90 seconds.
Obviously your reticule needs to parallel to the base of the turret block and you do need to have a one piece rail however that is about all and I have used this on flat bottomed scopes and two piece rails when the receiver top goes over centre so you have something to align against.
Slacken the screws on the rings until the 'scope rotates with light resistance, then slide these between the rail and the bottom of the 'scope and push them together with finger and thumb whilst rocking the 'scope gently, when the 'scope stops rocking it is level with the base, slide the alignment system out, tighten the screws and check once more, a visual check with a torch as a light source works for me.
I prefer to set my 'scope alignment sitting down with the rifle across my knees, it removes all chance of cant and I can set a 'scope up in under 90 seconds.
Obviously your reticule needs to parallel to the base of the turret block and you do need to have a one piece rail however that is about all and I have used this on flat bottomed scopes and two piece rails when the receiver top goes over centre so you have something to align against.
An important point I haven’t seen mentioned yet is starting with an Optically Centered (as opposed to mechanically centered ie: count clicks, divide by half etc.) scope. This ensures the reticle/field of view and scope body are “centered†in relation to each other. If this is not done, I have seen how shots on this side of your zero can be ever so slightly off to one side, bang on at zero, then start drifting to the other side as you get further away from your zero. To get to O/C, I use the rotating scope in a “V-notch†method. I’ve found the “mirror†method can be inaccurate due to irregularities in the way an A/O is mounted or the glass on the mirror itself. Rotate your scope in a v-notch and make adjustments so your verticle crosshair intersects a given target the same whether right side up or upside down. When this happens you’ll now have your “crosshairs†centered in relation to how they sit in the rings. Then I use the tool Boyd provided the link for
to ensure the verticle reticle sits perfectly on top of the bore axis.
Some short cuts I use are to start with the scope unmounted, O/C it then clamp it in a padded vice to level it using a plumb line. Then I temporarily attach a bubble level (like Mounting Solutions Plus) to the scope tube as a quick visual referrence throughout the rest of the mounting process. As mentioned, true plumb doesn’t always correspond to the elevation turret cap. Using a padded vice, I then set about leveling the rifle using a flat surface of the receiver, the bottom of the mag well etc. Then I use this Wheeler barrel clamp to mark level throughout the rest of the process:
I just find it so much easier to cinch up the ring screws looking at the 2 levels instead of constantly getting in behind the gun to check the reticle.
to ensure the verticle reticle sits perfectly on top of the bore axis.
Some short cuts I use are to start with the scope unmounted, O/C it then clamp it in a padded vice to level it using a plumb line. Then I temporarily attach a bubble level (like Mounting Solutions Plus) to the scope tube as a quick visual referrence throughout the rest of the mounting process. As mentioned, true plumb doesn’t always correspond to the elevation turret cap. Using a padded vice, I then set about leveling the rifle using a flat surface of the receiver, the bottom of the mag well etc. Then I use this Wheeler barrel clamp to mark level throughout the rest of the process:
I just find it so much easier to cinch up the ring screws looking at the 2 levels instead of constantly getting in behind the gun to check the reticle.
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