bullet doesn't like barrel

[6MMsteve]

I tried the rdfs in a couple brux 6 dasher barrels I had..they both have shot some groups in the .0's at 100yds...the rdf's wrecked best I could them was at .750...I forgot about that...but I will never buy anymore but there r people prolly shooting them good, just not me

 

[searcher]

Contrary to what I see a lot of folks here saying - my own experience shows that most "crappy" shooting bullets can be made to shoot better - if not excellent by simply changing powders until the right combustion dynamic is found to suit the vibration or whatever one wants to call it. I also found seating depth and tension to be far less of a concern than getting that proper combustion dynamic. Seating depth and tension make a good load better - they don't make the load by themselves. If I relied only on seating depth as my 'tuning" criteria, for example, I'd have thrown out or sold 98% of my bullets.

 

[Webster]

Contrary to what I see a lot of folks here saying - my own experience shows that most "crappy" shooting bullets can be made to shoot better - if not excellent by simply changing powders until the right combustion dynamic is found to suit the vibration or whatever one wants to call it. I also found seating depth and tension to be far less of a concern than getting that proper combustion dynamic. Seating depth and tension make a good load better - they don't make the load by themselves. If I relied only on seating depth as my 'tuning" criteria, for example, I'd have thrown out or sold 98% of my bullets.

The problem is how many cans of powder am I going to buy and how many rounds am I willing to shoot down range looking for something that works with one particular bullet. A particular bullet isn't going to shoot well just because you like it. You can spend a huge amount of money getting nowhere. It gets expensive at $30+ per pound of powder. Plus expensive primers. That's why I stick to calibers that are known for extreme accuracy.

 

[jackieschmidt]

I think it depends on the level of accuracy you are trying to achieve.

As a Short Range Benchrest Shooter, we run into this quite often. But then, we might have a particular bullet that simply will not Agg much better than about .280. But another bullet might get in to that magic sub .200 level.

Back in the mid 2000’s, a certain bullet maker came out with a68 grn boat tail that were phenomenal. I bought 5000 of them and shot very well for a couple of years. If I did not have at least one “teen” agg in a two Gun event, I would be disappointed.

When that 5000 ran out, the next 5000 were no where near as good. In fact, they were so bad that I switched to another brand completely.

What was the difference? Components. Any bullet maker is at the mercy of the components on hand at the moment.

One thing you want to avoid is wasting good components. At this time, 30 caliber Benchrest bullets are close to 50 cents a piece. If you have a mediocre barrel, you have to decide how many good bullets you are going to waste on it. The same can be said for bullets, throwing mediocre bullets down a good barrel seems rather counterproductive.

Other shooting activities might not require that level of precision as both Short Range and Long Range Benchrest.

By the way, most bullet jackets run around .0002 to 0004 in wall thicknes consistency. You can drive yourself crazy trying to ascertain these very small numbers, or concentrate your efforts do the best you can with the things that you do have control over.

 

[INTJ]

I think it depends on the level of accuracy you are trying to achieve.

As a Short Range Benchrest Shooter, we run into this quite often. But then, we might have a particular bullet that simply will not Agg much better than about .280. But another bullet might get in to that magic sub .200 level.

Back in the mid 2000’s, a certain bullet maker came out with a68 grn boat tail that were phenomenal. I bought 5000 of them and shot very well for a couple of years. If I did not have at least one “teen” agg in a two Gun event, I would be disappointed.

When that 5000 ran out, the next 5000 were no where near as good. In fact, they were so bad that I switched to another brand completely.

What was the difference? Components. Any bullet maker is at the mercy of the components on hand at the moment.

One thing you want to avoid is wasting good components. At this time, 30 caliber Benchrest bullets are close to 50 cents a piece. If you have a mediocre barrel, you have to decide how many good bullets you are going to waste on it. The same can be said for bullets, throwing mediocre bullets down a good barrel seems rather counterproductive.

Other shooting activities might not require that level of precision as both Short Range and Long Range Benchrest.

By the way, most bullet jackets run around .0002 to 0004 in wall thicknes consistency. You can drive yourself crazy trying to ascertain these very small numbers, or concentrate your efforts do the best you can with the things that you do have control over.

Agree. I was about to describe how a common go to load for a 300 WSM LRBR rifle: 215 Berger, 64-65 grains RL-23, jammed .005 to .010, shot great in one barrel and crappy in another. Both barrels were chambers by me using the same reamer.

In the happy barrel it shot .6" 5-shot groups at 200 yds, in the unhappy barrel it was shooting about .9" at 300. Then I realized that is about the same MOA for both barrels, neither of which is good enough. I switched powder in the newer barrel and it tightened up to .6" at 300 yds.

So in this case I would be inclined to say the new barrel hates RL-23 but loves IMR 4451. Now if I was shooting anything other than BR, or maybe F-Class, going from .3 to .2 MOA at close range isn't evidence of hate/love with a powder. However, in a 30, 1000 yd MOA is easily double 300 yd MOA and in a 6mm it is triple.

So perspective is very important when describing which barrel likes what.....

 

[searcher]

The problem is how many cans of powder am I going to buy and how many rounds am I willing to shoot down range looking for something that works with one particular bullet. A particular bullet isn't going to shoot well just because you like it. You can spend a huge amount of money getting nowhere. It gets expensive at $30+ per pound of powder. Plus expensive primers. That's why I stick to calibers that are known for extreme accuracy.

You are right in respect to everyone drawing the line as to when to stop testing, either because of time limitations, cost of components, fear of putting wear on barrel, etc. I will put a barrel through a pretty good jaunt to see what it will do, as I enjoy the process. I have gotten just as bad groups out of my 6PPC's, 6BR's and Dasher as I have other calibers "less known" for their accuracy. Nonetheless - they all ended up shooting in the end after what was usually several powder swaps. My point was that a lot of folks replace a "bad" bullet without even trying several powders. Then they find the replacement bullet shoots no better (or worse). Then what? Just settle as being good? Buy another bullet?