Bulk Lube, Tumbling, and Case Mouth Lubrication

[treillw]

Loading a few thousand 9mm and 5.56 rounds - non precision loads.

Questions:
1. What lube should I use? Thinking either Hornady One Shot or the Dillon Lanolin based lube. Probably doesn't matter, but I think the Hornady might be easier to clean off by tumbling after resizing.

2. How should I remove lube after resizing? I have a FART. I can wet tumble with or without pins or dry tumble in it. What cleaner is needed in the water that dissolves the lube?

3. Does the brass to bullet interface need to be lubricated with something so the bullet doesn't fuse to the brass. My buddy had this happen and nearly blew up his RUM. He had this ammunition stored for a long time. They could tell something was wrong when firing - it didn't sound right, long slow hiss or something of that nature. When pulling the bullet in the reloading press to diagnose the problem, that bullet was fused in there so badly that it ripped the brass into two pieces below the shoulder. Some of this ammo probably wont get shot for a decade or two - so I'm a little worried about it.

Thanks!

 

[K22]

You should be using carbide dies for the 9mm, no lube is needed.

For the 5.56 and high-volume reloading which apparently is what you're doing, the One-Shot spray is quick and can cover a lot of cases in a short amount of time. Just make sure you cover the entire circumference of the cases. Standing the cases in a lube block will make the application easier and more complete. With One Shot, just wipe them off or dry tumbled them.

Personally, I prefer Imperial sizing wax as my case lube, but it may not be the most efficient lube for high volume loading in a single session.

I've been reloading and shooting for 50+ years and never heard of or seen the condition your described with your buddy's RUM so I cannot comment on it. However, placing lube inside the case neck before seating the bullet can contaminate the powder. I don't know anyone who does that sort of thing.

I've pre-loaded rounds and some have set for a year or 2 without any adverse effects, but that was a short amount of time compared to the time period you posted - decades? - really? Why preload ammo you know is going to sit for a decade or two????

 

[pilediver]

For straight wall cases in a carbide die, no lube needed.
For bulk rifle cases, I prefer the Dillon style lanolin and alcohol lube liberally applied and after sizing I wash the cases in hot water and dish soap before dry tumbling with auto wax added to the walnut shells.
I do this with all my rifle cases and the waxy dust left in the case necks helps prevent bullet stick
I'm just now experimenting with Neolube for my bolt action stuff as a final step before bullet seating

 

[Richard Jones]

9mm, no lube.

.223, I use the Dillon lube. Put a bunch of brass in a ziplok, spritz a few times, shake, leave bag open to off-gas.

ETA: I use the Dillon lube only on stuff I'm loading with my 550B. Single stage ammo gets Imperial.

 

[SeabeeKen]

Carbide for straight wall stuff. I use Royal case and die lube. I like it much better than hornady one stuck and lanolin. Wipes off cleanly and easily. Never a stuck case or dented shoulder. I had some bullets weld years ago from sitting. Dissimilar metals can do that. When you wet tumble and clean the brass to bare metal inside, it makes a more secure bond over time. I solved my issue by using a qtip to apply a tiny amount of Lee case lube inside the neck. This also help make bullet release more consistent giving me better ES/SD numbers. I suspect your buddie's load was at or near max before the bullet weld issue.

 

[rwj]

Dillon still offers a carbide .223 resizing die. I bought one years ago and used it without case lube. No doubt less effort to cycle press with lubed cases, but a lot less case prep time/effort without lube! Note… rounds were loaded for plinking use in an AR platform!

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

All my bulk small cartridges(17R,20p,204R,22-250) Hornady one shot. I spray and shake in a baggy,DRY in a clean cardboard flat. If you are running progressive, stand cases in the cb flat and follow Hornady instructions(always allow drying). I don't use the expander/decap rod assembly while sizing. Your bulk 9mm you need to set dies so every rd feeds and functions, this will take experimenting if running mixed brass. Don't want sp or jams in shtf situation. I have only had long term cold weld in the 17R, Rem brass,w760,Berger bullets. Had to reseat 0.004 deeper after noticing small neck crack after firing to pull bullets.

 

[markm87]

I absolutely HATE 1 shot. Horrible product. Dillon's DCL is really good. People make their own versions of Dillon, but I don't know why... not worth the hassle to me, but whatever.

I run 9mm brass in a non-carbide die with no lube. The die runs smoother with lube, but tumbling it off isn't worth the extra hour of brass processing.

I just use walnut lizard bedding media for 1 hour in my dry tumbler to remove lube. Sometimes I'll do a rough wipe down on an old Tshirt to keep my media from getting too caked with lanolin.

 

[big5ifty]

Loading a few thousand 9mm and 5.56 rounds - non precision loads.

Questions:
1. What lube should I use? Thinking either Hornady One Shot or the Dillon Lanolin based lube. .

For 9mm, you don't need lube. If you insist, Hornady One Shot will do.

For .223, use the Dillon lube. One Shot is not lube enough.

2. How should I remove lube after resizing?

For your ammo, you don't need to.

3. Does the brass to bullet interface need to be lubricated with something so the bullet doesn't fuse to the brass.

It doesn't need to be if you use the ammo shortly after.

Cold weld will happen after time under changing weather conditions. Exactly how much time it takes depends a lot on the climate.

You can eliminate the problem by moly coating. If you plan to store your ammo for 10 years, moly coat the bullets.

Cold weld happens in factory ammo as well. I pulled some 30-06 factory ammo once, my collet puller took strain.

 

[Chiquita]

>>> ONE SHOT case lube<<<

Make sure it is the case lube not the gun lube. They make two different types that look similar.

Put your cases in a bag or a box, spray the ONE SHOT and move the cases around. The spray covers a lot of area. Leave your cases in the bag for about 10 minutes. (there is no hard rule on this. I have left them for 10 min, one day and two days).

Clean the inside of your die with acetone or other agent to get rid of pre existing lube. Coat the inside with LUBE ONE and you are good to go.

The One Shot is faster.

This works really well for me and is much faster than the other lubes.

 

[10XSHOOTER]

I use Redding or RCBS water soluable lube. after sizing, put them on the pegs in my dishwasher, Run a full cycle with the hottest water possible. let them dry with heated drying cycle. Over night , they are clean and dry the next morning! my dishwasher holds 120 rounds,

 

[gdbleb]

For "non-precision" 5.56 brass (range pickup?) you're going to have a widely variable set of dimensions.
My experience:
One Shot is very good for brass that came from your 5.56 BUT you will stick a case from time to time so have the tools for that.
Dillon lanolin/alcohol spray is somewhat slicker IMHO BUT it separates over time.
I'm now using that Royal case spray and it seems slicker BUT lord it smells weird.
Any strong resistance felt on the resize stroke - STOP and go to Imperial Sizing Wax.

 

[atblis]

For what you describe

Hornady One Shot
or
Homebrew Lanolin

Both are easily removed after loading by walnut in a vibratory cleaner. In general, wet tumbling is overrated. For general purpose plinking ammo, a little carbon in the next is a good thing IMO.

Personally, I think OneShot works slightly better, but I am always out of it. I can whip up the Lanolin as needed. 1 lb of anyhydrous Lanolin is <$20 and will last you a long long time. I have the solvents around anyways as general shop stuff. Most people use 99% Isopropyl alcohol. Acetone works too.

I would not spray the inside of the cases. Lay them flat, and spray the sides. Make sure to do multiple coats, and move them around to get an even coat.

 

[jelenko]

I've used Hornady One Shot with over 20,000 223 cases - never a stuck case. It is very important to shake the can as directed and to let the cases dry before sizing.

 

[762plinker]

well i am the odd man out..i like midway bottle spritz lube
300 223 cases in a gallon ziploc tumble by hand dump out do the next
do not use right away..let the carrier( alchol ??) vape off.
remove the bin and let them fall in a 5 gal bucket.
tumble in fine corn cob to clean

 

[drop_point]

I've used Hornady One Shot with over 20,000 223 cases - never a stuck case. It is very important to shake the can as directed and to let the cases dry before sizing.

same here. Also start with clean dies.

 

[WVRJ]

I use one shot on my bulk ammo and Imperial wax for the precision stuff.I spray a light coat of One Shot on my 9MM brass even though I use carbide dies.

 

[drop_point]

I use one shot on my bulk ammo and Imperial wax for the precision stuff.I spray a light coat of One Shot on my 9MM brass even though I use carbide dies.

Sure makes the press run smoother.