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Building a Wireless Target Camera System

Jay Christopherson

Not An Admin
Enough people have PM'd me based on a reply I made to another thread that I thought I would create this thread for people to reference. If anyone has ways to improve it, just build on the thread here.

The system, as I built it, has worked out to 1500 yards for me. Technically, it should be good longer than that, but the signal strength is pretty low. You could *easily* get farther than that by simply replacing the omni-directional antennas on the route with a Hi-Gain directional and point it back to your firing position. With a directional hi-gain on both ends, you should be able to really get some distance.

One additional note regarding the batteries- these are just cheap chinese deals, but they work well. You kind of have to dig around the Internet to find them for sale singly- they are mostly offered in bulk lots, but you should be able to find them. Here's one place that seems to be offering them. When I bought them, they shipped from Hong Kong.

http://securityworldnet.com/products.asp?id=77


...

Here is the parts list:


1 x Linksys WRT54G Wireless Router
1 x Canon VB-C300 2X Optical Zoom security camera
1 x Hawking Hi-Gain 14dBi Directional Antenna
1 x Hawking HWUN3 Hi-gain USB Wireless Adaptor
1 x laptop running Windows XP***
2 x 12V 4800mah rechargeable Li-ON CCTV batteries ()
2 x 6" lengths of CAT5E network cable

*** I am assuming you already have a laptop available to you and am not counting it as part of the cost since they are nearly ubiquitous now.


NOTES:
The WRT54G router is old, but you'll find that prices are surprisingly high on Ebay ($50+). The reason is that this router is extremely popular with the router modding crowd for being easily upgradable with DD-WRT, which adds all kinds of cool features. It also features external antennas- this is a *must* for this system. If you have trouble finding this router, any wireless router will do but it MUST HAVE external antennas.

The Canon VB-C300 camera is the most expensive part of this system and makes up probably 80% of the cost. You can use ANY security camera here, but it MUST HAVE *optical zoom* (digital won't cut it), a 12V input and have a network interface. I got this off Ebay. There are tons of security cameras listed, just keep an eye out for a good deal. $400 or so is about right. Make sure that when you purchase the camera, you are getting the software (or can download it online for free) as well. Lots of cameras are supported by remote control apps available for iPhone, iPad and Android. This is something I am aware of, but have not yet tested with this camera.

I am assuming you already have a laptop. Windows XP works best because it supports the camera software and the USB wireless adapter easily.

You need the USB wireless adapter because it has an external antenna- any usb wireless adapter will do as long as you have an external antenna.

SETUP (assumes you have all parts):
1. If you have the inclination and ability, install DD-WRT on your router. This gives you some features the default software does not, like increasing the radio output. If not, no big deal- it's not required, just neat.

2. Setup your router using simple defaults- don't bother with WEP or any type of encryption. We're using this at the range, so "riders" are not really a concern and you want the best possible throughput. I just used all the setup defaults.

3. Install the wireless USB stick on your laptop- just follow the setup CD here - and connect to your wireless router, getting a DHCP assigned address.

4. Install the camera software on your laptop, setup the camera, and get familiar with controlling the camera. For the Canon, you simply connect it to the wireless router using one of the CAT5E cables listed above and power it on. It will get an IP address (the default for Linksys is 192.168.0.X, but check your router setup). Then enter that IP address into the camera control software and hit "Connect".

Once you are connected, you just use your mouse to move it around and there are 2 sliders to control the zoom and night/day functions.

5. At this point, you should have a fully functioning system working in your house, but there are a few remaining things before you are ready for the range:
A. Connect the 14dBi Hi-gain antenna to the external antenna connector on the USB wireless stick that you installed in Step 3.
B. As you point the antenna, you should be seeing networks that you have never previously seen- the antenna is giving you some serious range at this point, but we just want to make sure you can still connect to your "range" router.
C. Connect the CCTV batteries to the camera and the router and make sure everything powers on. The CCTV batteries, fully charged, should give you several hours of use.

At this point, you have the entire kit working. At the range, I tape the two CCTV batteries together for easier management. I also tape cables together for the same reason. At the target end, I place the camera, router, and batteries in front of the target (but slightly behind the berm or at least, a little off to the side so that there is no chance someone will blow it up with a bad shot). Power it all up and make sure the network is being broadcast (you should see the SSID using a phone or your laptop before you walk all 600+ yards back to the firing line).

Back at the firing line, you should have your laptop with the USB wireless stick installed with the 14dBi Hi-Gain antenna attached. Power everything up and point the antenna downrange in the general direction of the wireless router- you should be seeing your network listed now. It's probably going to be the only network you see. Connect, fire up the camera control software, connect to the camera, and you are in business!

Let me know if you need clarification, help tracking down equipment (I got everything except the camera and router on Amazon), or whatever. I have no idea what your computer/engineering skills are so if I have oversimplified or undersimplified, please let me know. I can also take some pictures or do up a Visio for you if that would help.

The only remaining task for me is to figure out a good enclosure for use when it is raining- I am currently testing something that I think is going to work out well, but I haven't tested it extensively yet so I can't yet recommend it as a solution. It's cheap though so if it does work, it'll only add about $30 to the cost of the outfit.

Good luck!
 
Modification for Use with iPad/iPhone/Android

If you end up with a camera that supports an app that can control the camera from your tablet or smartphone, you won't be able to use the Hi-Gain directional antenna from your position at the firing line... in this case, you will need to modify the setup by replacing the antennas on the router with the Hi-Gain directional antenna and pointing back at your firing position.

There are larger Hi-Gain directional antennas than the one I spec'd at 14dBi and if you have signal problems with this setup, you might try a higher gain antenna.
 
My system requires the HG Transmitter/Reciver set set here:

http://www.central-alarms.com/alarms/agora.cgi?page=transmitters.html

A camera with video out port.....Optical OR Digital zoom, not limited to some high dollar thing, I use a Cannon Powershot (ebay$35) and Sony HandyCam 280 (ebay $49) or a JVC handy cam (Christmas gift) It doesn't matter if the camera records or takes pics, that's why you can pick them up cheap, it only needs to power up and display an image.

A TV or TV/VCR, I like the 10", 13" or 15" tube screen, lots of them out there now everyone has Flat Screens....use a Grease pencil to mark your shots or Record it and plot later.

Garden Tractor or Motor Cycle Batteries with AC/DC Power inverters, even your car/truck with an inverter at the line.

MOST IMPORTANT!!

Keep the system as low to the ground as possible, this helps keep the wind from moving it around and IT becoming a Target if on a public use Range.

A friend even uses an R/C truck to move the camera from Target to Target so we don't have to make a trip down range to hang new paper.
 
Well, there is a $175 system that looks like it goes 1,000 yds. and a $600 system that goes 1,500+ yds. Since I'm only interested in 1,000 yds (+/-), is there any downside to the $175 system?

How easy is it to find a monitor that runs on 12 vdc?
 
Awesome, more options == better.

Taildrag15X said:
My system requires the HG Transmitter/Reciver set set here:

http://www.central-alarms.com/alarms/agora.cgi?page=transmitters.html

A camera with video out port.....Optical OR Digital zoom, not limited to some high dollar thing, I use a Cannon Powershot (ebay$35) and Sony HandyCam 280 (ebay $49) or a JVC handy cam (Christmas gift) It doesn't matter if the camera records or takes pics, that's why you can pick them up cheap, it only needs to power up and display an image.

A TV or TV/VCR, I like the 10", 13" or 15" tube screen, lots of them out there now everyone has Flat Screens....use a Grease pencil to mark your shots or Record it and plot later.

Garden Tractor or Motor Cycle Batteries with AC/DC Power inverters, even your car/truck with an inverter at the line.

MOST IMPORTANT!!

Keep the system as low to the ground as possible, this helps keep the wind from moving it around and IT becoming a Target if on a public use Range.

A friend even uses an R/C truck to move the camera from Target to Target so we don't have to make a trip down range to hang new paper.
 
I'm sure Mike will chime in to correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you need an AC/DC inverter in use with a motorcyle/tractor battery to power the TV for his system. I don't know of any TV's or monitors that run on straight 12V DC power. It looks like he suggests you can use the car as your power source as well.

Some ranges have AC power available, but I wouldn't count on it.

Well, there is a $175 system that looks like it goes 1,000 yds. and a $600 system that goes 1,500+ yds. Since I'm only interested in 1,000 yds (+/-), is there any downside to the $175 system?

How easy is it to find a monitor that runs on 12 vdc?
 
The output of inverters (at least the cheap ones that I've seen) is a square wave instead of a sine wave. I know people say they work but I tried one to power an oscilloscope at at range and the scope would not power up. Scope works fine on regular AC.
I just wonder what square waves do to the power input circuitry. After my experience with the scope I'm a bit leary. I just thought running everything off batteries would be easier & cleaner.
 
I'm really liking these ideas! Our range is 600 yards, and to check our hits, we have to drive 4 wheeler totally around outside edge of big crop field. This is ultra cool, and not alot of initial cash outlay for Taildrag's system, I have everything except for the wireless setup.

Frank
 
itchyTF said:
The output of inverters (at least the cheap ones that I've seen) is a square wave instead of a sine wave. I know people say they work but I tried one to power an oscilloscope at at range and the scope would not power up. Scope works fine on regular AC.
I just wonder what square waves do to the power input circuitry. After my experience with the scope I'm a bit leary. I just thought running everything off batteries would be easier & cleaner.

I run my Hunting camp on a bank of 10, deep cell boat 12 volt batteries that are powering an inverter that runs my Flat Screen, Sat. System, microwave, VCR, DVD player, Mr. Coffee pot and a few lights here and there when we need them. I bought the inverter through the almighty Harbour Frieght company.

As far as being worried about the inverter and equipment damage due to which wave it is, the Transmitter and Reciever runs off a transformer (don't remember the ratings) so they don't see the direct current from the inverter, and I know that it doesn't hurt the TV's I have.

You can find 12 Volt TV's at Camper Sales stores or Boat Shops, and of course ebay or go the inverter route, I have both, just thought that it would be the easiest to set up for some as not every one knows about 12 volt TV's. The inverters are easy enough to come by know also, I remember 25 yrs. ago having one in my work van to run a drill, grinder, saw whatever for on the spot emergency repairs and people would ask "how you'd do that?" Always told em' the van was 240 volt single phase, turn away and snicker.....
 
Excellent 12V monitors are everywhere for the Car Video business. So the kids can watch movies in the back seat.............

In the pictures of the various cameras and transmitters, I'm seeing "Wall Warts".......117V to X volt AC-DC converters. I would not be surprised if these devices actually run of straight 12V DC.......If it is less than 12V DC, Radio Shack makes adapters that will drop 12V down to whatever you need.
 
40X Guy said:
How many watt inverter would I need to buy and still have a little reserve power left over to do this?

Frank

For what ?

I use a 450 watt at the Camera/Transmitter set (even the camera is running off the battery/inverter as it's AA's don't last, but the 12 volt system has about 4 hrs. + on full charge.

At the Line I use a 750 watt, as it is what I have on hand, don't think it needs to be that big for a small TV, should be able to do it with a 300-450 watt one.

You can size your needs here.....

http://www.dcacpowerinverters.com/usage_chart.html
 
Well, there is a $175 system that looks like it goes 1,000 yds. and a $600 system that goes 1,500+ yds. Since I'm only interested in 1,000 yds (+/-), is there any downside to the $175 system?

How easy is it to find a monitor that runs on 12 vdc?

Where could I find this $175 dollar system you speak of?
 
seanhagerty said:
Well, there is a $175 system that looks like it goes 1,000 yds. and a $600 system that goes 1,500+ yds. Since I'm only interested in 1,000 yds (+/-), is there any downside to the $175 system?

How easy is it to find a monitor that runs on 12 vdc?

Where could I find this $175 dollar system you speak of?

Why don't you read the posts.......the link for the Transmitter/Reciver system is there and I spell out what I use .
 
All-

The question of how to incorporate a laptop into Mike's system has come up a few times and since all you are really doing in effect with his system is connecting a camcorder to your laptop with a really long (wireless) cable, this might work:

http://www.amazon.com/3-RCA-to-USB-Cable/dp/B003QA5LA0

It's only $.99. It should be like attaching your camcorder to your laptop to replay video. The only question is, will it allow you to view *live* video and not just replay video. Of that, I am not certain since I don't have a camcorder to test.

If it does not, then I would recommend that perhaps a USB TV-tuner with appropriate inputs like this:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4484929&CatId=4546

for $79 might work.

My gut feeling (after talking it over with a few people) is that you are going to need the USB TV tuner. The first cable for $.99 only gives the signal a path to your laptop, but does not handle display. For that you would need some sort of video display software, which you may or may not have. The USB TV-tuner card should handle the display for you or have software that comes with it that handles the display.

If you feel confident that you have software to handle the video display, then the $.99 cable might be the right way to go. If you do not, then the $79 USB Tv Tuner adapter might be the way to go.
 
Is there any reason you could not connect a high gain antenna to the router end of jaychris' system and aim it back at your shooting position?

Then all you would need at the shooting position is the laptop if it has an internal wireless card.

Maybe I am missing something here though?

Also, a lot of cameras and routers I am seeing operate on 12vDC power. If that is the case then there is no need for the inverter correct?
 
If you like tinkering with things and can use a soldering iron this will save you some money!

http://www.rangevideo.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=35_59

I have tested it short range using a canon shure shot as the input. Haven't got round to any long range tests yet.

The easiest way to boost performance of any of these devices is to add a high gain antenna which can be built fairly easily by following instructions found online like these.

http://martybugs.net/wireless/biquad/
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1328260

This should work for a display.
http://www.amazon.com/Haier-HLT10-10-Inch-Handheld-Black/dp/B001OXKPDO/ref=pd_sim_sg_1

Also as a word of warning I believe you do need an FCC technician amatuer radio license to operate any of the units described in these posts!!

Jon
 

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