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Building a Form 1 Suppressor

There was an interesting podcast with a designer at KRG suppressors recently - He gave a shout out and talked about how thunderbeast cans have earned their reputation for accuracy (versus other brands) because they hold 3 thou concentricity through the baffle stack on the port opening.

That’s pretty impressive for something 9 inches long and not a solid piece you could use a big boring bar on (probably).

He didn’t say it, but he implied other manufacturers, including theirs can’t do that well.

Others can as well. Whether they do or not is the question, but any of them that uses a wire EDM to bring the bore to finished size after assembly is achieving a similar runout.
 
I do not understand paying close to $500 for a kit, plus money for a jig and end mill. Hand drilling or using a drill press you will never come close to the precision of cans in even the $750 price range. The only thing you are gaining is a shorter wait time. Don't get me wrong I like form 1 builds, but if you do not have a lathe, you can can have a lot of fun with exhaust tube and dimpled freeze plugs for under ten bucks, after your form is approved lol.
 
I do not understand paying close to $500 for a kit, plus money for a jig and end mill. Hand drilling or using a drill press you will never come close to the precision of cans in even the $750 price range. The only thing you are gaining is a shorter wait time. Don't get me wrong I like form 1 builds, but if you do not have a lathe, you can can have a lot of fun with exhaust tube and dimpled freeze plugs for under ten bucks, after your form is approved lol.

Perhaps I enjoy building things. Perhaps I don't want to wait 13 months for the government to do paperwork. Perhaps I have equipment to make my own holes without jigs.

But I'll agree, it's not for the faint of heart.

Engineering types prefer to build their own things.
 
I do not understand paying close to $500 for a kit, plus money for a jig and end mill. Hand drilling or using a drill press you will never come close to the precision of cans in even the $750 price range. The only thing you are gaining is a shorter wait time. Don't get me wrong I like form 1 builds, but if you do not have a lathe, you can can have a lot of fun with exhaust tube and dimpled freeze plugs for under ten bucks, after your form is approved lol.

I get what you're saying, but I've scratch built 6 different cans using a multitude of methods; thread together, weld together, monocore, cones, k-baffles, direct thread, ratchet lock, taper lock, etc. My most used one is a 30 cal with a ratchet lock and cone baffles. Titanium, thread together. The cone bores are pretty concentric relative to the exterior of the baffles because they were made at the same time the OD was machined. But they're just stacked into a titanium seamless tube that wasn't machined on the ID. It's not straight. I straightened it as much as I could between V blocks on a press, but it's still probably .015-020" warped.

Anyway, my point is I can put that can on any rifle I have that shoots <1 moa unsuppressed, and they still shoot <1 moa with it on. A couple don't even have any POI shift (I should measure the warp and mark the direction and see if there's any relationship between it and POI shift or lack there of.)

I've gone from thinking how super critical concentricity and straightness is to pretty much believing as long as there's clearance for the projectile it'll be fine - when you're talking about ~1 moa. Maybe it becomes more critical if you start talking about <.5 moa.
 
Gotcha. I've built a few now. I enjoy the process and results. Helped a few buddies bore and clip solvent trap parts, with them standing there so its legal. Have another stamp I need to do the build for and I'm thinking about doing another ultralight one for hunting.
 

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