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building a 6.5-284 whats a good action to use?

All my 6.5*284's do. The fouled barrel make it more predictable and much closer though (if you have just cleaned your barrel foulers can go anywhere). This will only serously affect you on long range shots but be aware of it. We all like to see clean kill shots. If you don't have a chrono, a 600 yard target will also tell the story. 50-100fps will show up a fair bit lower on the target. If the type of hunting you do is one shot here and there and barrel is cold, then sight in on that shot, not the warm barrel.
 
go to www.precision-accuracy.com to find all your questions about ultra light weight 6.5/284's built on Sako 85 actions with reverse taper Walther barrels and guarenteed accuracy. Listen to Byron...quite experienced with these hunting rifles in this caliber. Good luck.
 
O dear - the 'never to disappoint' discussion on barrel life for a 6.5x284 ;)

6 years of shooting 6.5x284 in hunting and competition has taught me one thing - that the answer to the barrel life question is not a point answer, but a range answer (and quite a wide range at that).

Personal experience, and many discussions on the topic of seemingly very different barrel life experiences for this caliber under different types of rifle application, has led me to believe that barrel life (or more specifically throat wear) for this caliber is driven by two main levers:

1) Heat, or more specifically, the temperature of the throat while firing a bullet through it, and
2) The level of angular torque exerted on the throat/lands when the bullet hits the lands the first time - the higher the angular torque, the shorter the barrel life.

In my experience, limit the above two factors, and you dramatically extend barrel life for a given level of accuracy requirement.

How to limit heat? Other than loading down on your propellant, don't shoot long strings with short intervals between shots! I've seen the impact of this firsthand in the difference in competitive barrel life in F-Class between shooting string style F-Class as in the US, and Bisley style (3 to a target shooting in turns) as in the UK/South Africa - from experience I would give a rule of thumb that you can add 50% to 75% to your competitive barrel life in the latter shooting style compared to the former.

And how to limit angular torque on the lands?

1) Shoot lighter bullets, especially for high round count applications like plinking/practicing at the range - there is a difference in competitive barrel life between shooting 123g Matchkings at mild loads and shooting 140g Bergers 'forced to the max' muzzle velocity.
2) Load down to a lower muzzle velocity accuracy node - on my tactical and hunting rigs I typically shoot 123 Matchkings at 3050fps for plinking and tactical competitions as opposed to the 3180 I can push them to in my 28 inch barrel.

Apply all of the above ideas (ie load lighter bullets to a lower MV and avoid long strings of 15-20 shots rapidfire) and you should keep 0.5 to 0.75MOA accuracy on a competition barrel for between 2000 and 3000 rounds. I've done it a few times.

In terms of the 6.5x284 for hunting, I use nothing else for small game all the way up to Kudu/Oryx. Either 130g or 140g Nosler Accubonds give you a G1 BC between 0.49 and 0.52 and put animals down easily up to my self-applied maximum range of 600 yards. Use it and don't look back.

Enjoy the gun.......
 
Since a high amount of this conversation deals with barrel life, I would ask you what game would you kill with a 6.5x284 that I couldn't kill with my 6.5x55 Swede? In a hunting rifle my Swede's barrel will outlast me. Barrel life cured. Next, 1-8" is the only way to go, period. Don't think you can make do with 8.5" or 9"...it just ain't so. Unless you want to limit yourself to 120grainers. I've just started shooting the new Barnes 130gr TSX in mine and after a fouling shot puts the group in one ragged hole. Any brand 140's and the 155 Megas are all 1/2" groups. Any brand 120's all 1/4-1/2". My barrel is a 23 1/4" Sako S/S fluted on a S/S Mod 70 action (long). The long action is the perfect mate for the long throated Swede and long heavy bullets. Recoil? There is none. It's pussycat. Lapua brass? The best. What's not to love? OK so I gave up a wee bit of speed with the shorter barrel but this is a carry gun that is very accurate and very reliable. Yeh, 6.5x284's are everyone's current babydoll but ya just don't need it. Just an old man's opinion. Good luck.
 
I used a Rem700 LA for my 6.5X284. Built it out of an old 30-06. Feeds like a champ and my Pac Nor 9 twist stabilizes 140 VLD's just fine. As far as Barnes', I don't think you need an 8 twist as long as your hunting load is fairly hot. I use my 284 only occasionally and it sounds like you will do the same so barrel life shouldn't even play a factor. I have to agree with BBTC48 though. I have both a 6.5 Swede and a 6.5X284 and I really struggle to pick the 284 over the Swede. My swede is a Tikka T3 Lite topped with a VX-III 4.5-14LR with a turret and my 284 is a custom with a 28" #6 heavy fluted barrel and Mcmillan stock topped with a VX-III 8.5-25LR with a turret. The 284 shoots 1/4 MOA but so does my Swede and unless I'm trying to reach beyond 650 or 700 yards there is absolutely no need for the extra power. The swede also puts the cold bore shot right on the money every time and I can't say the same for my 284. Perhaps I haven't spent enough time on load development for the 284 but I didn't have to spend much at all on the Swede. I am really struggling with the fact that my $600 Tikka shoots as well as most all of my customs and does so with very little tuning. It pushes the same bullet to the target only slightly slower than the 284 and as far as I can tell the deer have never been able to tell a bit of difference in the two. Not trying to discourage your build, heaven knows I love my 284. Just wanted to say +1 for the Swede. Best of luck to you.
 
I've installed 2 douglas barrels for customers, and I refuse to do anymore of them!!! The outsides are so rough turned that they look like they are threaded, and the bore is not much smoother. I really can't see them costing half of what they do. How can anyone justify having to lap the bore for an hour and polish exterior for 2 hours just to save $30 bucks or so as compared to a Shilen???

I don't have a lot of strong biased opinions on actions, stocks, or calibers. But I do when it comes to this.

Sorry, needed to vent. Not meaning to offend anyone.
 
dcryder, I have three rifles with douglas xx barrels and they look just as good as the factory barrels on the other rifles. not to say you didnt get a bad barrel. but looks wise they look good to me.

the only reason I asked in this thread was to see if was a good barrel for this particular build.
 

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