Breaking in new rifle
- Thread starter mattt
- Start date
Im not a pro but have heard a good rule of thumb is; first 30 shots clean after each shot, next 40 shots clean after ever 3 shots.
Others go completely by the copper fouling they find on a patch.
Others go completely by the copper fouling they find on a patch.
DennisH
Life Time NRA member
http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html
Gale McMillian wrote the above article, interesting!
The below is from Krieger! It seems like your going get a lot of comments on this thread, some say (especially Gale McMillian) that cleaning a barrel does more harm than good! I know I shoot with people and they may clean every 100 rounds. Just do a search, even You Tube will have a few hits!
Again, the below is from Krieger.
The following is a guide to "break-in" based on our experience. This is not a hard and fast rule, only a guide. Some barrel, chamber, bullet, primer, powder, pressure, velocity etc. combinations may require more cycles some less!
It is a good idea to just observe what the barrel is telling you with its fouling pattern. But once it is broken in, there is no need to continue breaking it in.
Initially you should perform the shoot-one-shot-and-clean cycle for five cycles. If fouling hasn't reduced, fire five more cycles and so on until fouling begins to drop off. At that point shoot three shots before cleaning and observe. If fouling is reduced, fire five shots before cleaning. It is interesting to shoot groups during the three and five shot cycles.
Stainless Chrome moly
5 one-shot cycles 5 - 25 - one-shot cycles
1 three-shot cycle 2 - three-shot cycles
1 five-shot cycle 1 - five-shot cycle
Thank you for choosing a Krieger barrel.
Gale McMillian wrote the above article, interesting!
The below is from Krieger! It seems like your going get a lot of comments on this thread, some say (especially Gale McMillian) that cleaning a barrel does more harm than good! I know I shoot with people and they may clean every 100 rounds. Just do a search, even You Tube will have a few hits!
Again, the below is from Krieger.
The following is a guide to "break-in" based on our experience. This is not a hard and fast rule, only a guide. Some barrel, chamber, bullet, primer, powder, pressure, velocity etc. combinations may require more cycles some less!
It is a good idea to just observe what the barrel is telling you with its fouling pattern. But once it is broken in, there is no need to continue breaking it in.
Initially you should perform the shoot-one-shot-and-clean cycle for five cycles. If fouling hasn't reduced, fire five more cycles and so on until fouling begins to drop off. At that point shoot three shots before cleaning and observe. If fouling is reduced, fire five shots before cleaning. It is interesting to shoot groups during the three and five shot cycles.
Stainless Chrome moly
5 one-shot cycles 5 - 25 - one-shot cycles
1 three-shot cycle 2 - three-shot cycles
1 five-shot cycle 1 - five-shot cycle
Thank you for choosing a Krieger barrel.
I've alway shot 1 round and clean and keep cleaning after one round then go to 2 shots and clean all the way to five then every ten shots and clean keep going till you can git all fouling three patchs never done this on a factory but I'm sure it'll work the same.
Hillbilly
Hillbilly
The more I read about barrel break in the less I believe in it. I do use a mild break in process (3 single shots, 3 shot string) but I'm beginning to think this is really just a hold over from the days when I adhered to the break in philosophy.
I did the full 100 round break in with one rifle, and saw zero improvement. So I decided then and there that:
1) I'd definitely shot up a significant portion of my barrel life.
2) It's extremely laborious.
3) It's extremely time consuming.
4) It's expensive to load up all that ammo and basically blow it.
And considering those factors, combined with little, if any, improvement, it just wasn't worth it. I know many people have no break in procedure and simply shoot the barrel as soon as it's on the action. As you can see I did cut down the procedure to just 6 rounds, which isn't much trouble at all, but the nagging question in the back of my mind is, 'If 100 rounds didn't improve anything, what do you think 6 is gonna accomplish?' I'm about to have my first rifle rebarreled and believe I'll follow this philosophy with it and let break in go the way of the dinosaurs.
I did the full 100 round break in with one rifle, and saw zero improvement. So I decided then and there that:
1) I'd definitely shot up a significant portion of my barrel life.
2) It's extremely laborious.
3) It's extremely time consuming.
4) It's expensive to load up all that ammo and basically blow it.
And considering those factors, combined with little, if any, improvement, it just wasn't worth it. I know many people have no break in procedure and simply shoot the barrel as soon as it's on the action. As you can see I did cut down the procedure to just 6 rounds, which isn't much trouble at all, but the nagging question in the back of my mind is, 'If 100 rounds didn't improve anything, what do you think 6 is gonna accomplish?' I'm about to have my first rifle rebarreled and believe I'll follow this philosophy with it and let break in go the way of the dinosaurs.
I have used the Savage procedure per the manual and web site, same one my father and his gunsmith used.
Although there may be different schools of thought on barrel break-in, this is what Precision Shooting Magazine recommends:
STEP 1 (repeated 10 times)
◦Fire one round
◦Push wet patches soaked with a powder solvent through the bore
◦Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)
◦Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)
◦Push wet patches soaked with a copper solvent through the bore
◦Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)
◦Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)
◦Push a patch with 2 drops of oil through the bore
STEP 2 (repeated 5 times)
◦Fire a 3 shot group
◦Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1 after each group
STEP 3 (repeat 5 times)
◦Fire a 5 shot group
◦Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1
Although there may be different schools of thought on barrel break-in, this is what Precision Shooting Magazine recommends:
STEP 1 (repeated 10 times)
◦Fire one round
◦Push wet patches soaked with a powder solvent through the bore
◦Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)
◦Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)
◦Push wet patches soaked with a copper solvent through the bore
◦Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)
◦Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)
◦Push a patch with 2 drops of oil through the bore
STEP 2 (repeated 5 times)
◦Fire a 3 shot group
◦Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1 after each group
STEP 3 (repeat 5 times)
◦Fire a 5 shot group
◦Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1
On my Savage LRPV I cleaned after every round until I saw no hint of copper using Barnes CR-10 for solvent. It took about 15 rounds. After that I cleaned after each 3 shot group until no copper seen. Now I normally shoot 50-60 rounds between cleanings (one range outing) and see no copper.
The copper will tell you when it is broke in. And not all barrels do clean up. I have another replacement barrel that has 100 rounds down it, and still turns the patch robin's egg blue after one shot.
The copper will tell you when it is broke in. And not all barrels do clean up. I have another replacement barrel that has 100 rounds down it, and still turns the patch robin's egg blue after one shot.
Just took delivery on a new 6BRX chambering, in a big name cut rifled premium barrel. Copper fouling is extreme as seen with my borescope. I'll continue to clean after each 1,2 or 3 shots, while doing basic sight-in and fireforming Lapua 6BR to BRX, and all the while watching the amount of copper. Had another cut rifled barrel chambered in 6BR from the same maker, last June and that barrel was virtually copper free from the first shot fired. A year ago last November had a button rifled premium barrel done in 223 Rem. and copper fouling was also extreme until after 12 to 15 rounds fired when as if by magic all copper fouling ceased, and that barrel is one of my most accurate and copper free. Incidently, none of these barrels had a single reamer or tool mark in the throat area: all the copper was downstream, in the bore. Every barrel is different and I clean according to it's requirements. Some claim a long, extensive cleaning break-in, others, like Krieger suggest to clean as necessary and at least one barrel maker (Hart) says "just go out and shoot it". Even the barrel makers do not agree on what's "proper".
mattt said:
I have TWO favorites. Here is the first one.
How to Break-in a Barrel: A Dissenting Point of View by Gale McMillan
Gale McMillan, of McMillan Stocks fame, was one of the finest barrel-makers and benchrest shooters of all time. Gail argues that elaborate barrel break-in procedures do more harm than good.
As a barrel maker I have looked in thousands of new and used barrels with a bore scope and I will tell you that if every one followed the prescribed [one shot, one clean] break-in method, a very large number would do more harm than good. The reason you hear of the gain in accuracy is because if you chamber a barrel with a reamer that has a dull throater instead of cutting clean sharp rifling it smears a burr up on the down wind side of the rifling. It takes from one to two hundred rounds to burn this burr out and the rifle to settle down and shoot its best. Any one who chambers rifle barrels has tolerances on how dull to let the reamer get and factories let them go longer than any competent smith would.
Another tidbit to consider–take a 300 Win Mag that has a life expectancy of 1000 rounds. Use 10% of it up with your break-in procedure. For every 10 barrels the barrel-maker makes he has to make one more just to take care of the break-in. No wonder barrel-makers like to see this. Now when you flame me on this please [explain] what you think is happening to the inside of your barrel during the break in that is helping you.
Consider this: every round shot in breaking-in a barrel is one round off the life of said rifle barrel. No one has ever told me the physical reason of what happens during break-in firing. In other words what, to the number of pounds of powder shot at any given pressure, is the life of the barrel. No one has ever explained what is being accomplished by shooting and cleaning in any prescribed method. Start your barrel off with 5 rounds and clean it thoroughly and do it again.
Nev Maden, a friend down under that my brother taught to make barrels was the one who came up with the [one shot one clean] break-in method. He may think he has come upon something, or he has come up with another way to sell barrels. I feel that the first shot out of a barrel is its best and every one after that deteriorates [the bore] until the barrel is gone. If some one can explain what physically takes place during break-in to modify the barrel then I may change my mind. As the physical properties of a barrel don’t change because of the break-in procedures it means it’s all hog wash. I am open to any suggestions that can be documented otherwise if it is just someone’s opinion–forget it.
It all got started when a barrel maker that I know started putting break-in instructions in the box with each barrel he shipped a few years ago. I asked him how he figured it would help and his reply was if they shoot 100 rounds breaking in this barrel that’s total life is 3000 rounds and I make 1000 barrels a year just figure how many more barrels I will get to make. He had a point; it definitely will shorten the barrel life. I have been a barrel maker a fair amount of time and my barrels have set and reset benchrest world records so many times I quit keeping track (at one time they held 7 at one time) along with High Power, Silhouette, Smallbore national and world records and my instructions were to clean as often as possible preferably every 10 rounds. I inspect every barrel taken off and every new barrel before it is shipped with a bore scope and I will tell you all that I see far more barrels ruined by cleaning rods than I see worn out from normal wear and tear. I am even reading about people recommending breaking-in pistols. As if it will help their shooting ability or the guns’. Source: 6mmbr.com
Here's the other:
EASY BARREL BREAK-IN
If you want a super easy method for both fire forming and breaking in a barrel follow Joe Krupa's method:
"When I get a new barrel, I break it in with 25 pieces of newly turned brass.
I clean the new barrel, and then shoot 10 pieces to both fire form and break in the barrel. Then I clean the barrel and shoot the remaining 15.
After that, I clean the barrel and start tuning it with the first ten. I am convinced that you break in a barrel by shooting it than by cleaning it."
I currently use Mr. Krupa's method. Good cleaning!
therifler
Silver $$ Contributor
the best procedure for breaking in a barrel is what ever makes you feel warm and fuzzy . clean ever shot up to forty ,clean 1-5 and run them clean 5 and shoot for score . once it is broke in how many times do you shoot till you clean it ? that is a good term for it "breaking the barrel in" .the minute you pull the trigger on a new barrel you start breaking it . T.R.
While I am a Rookie when it comes to shooting competition myself, I've been building rifles for Tactical shooters and shooting / hunting for 40yrs. I'm a Master Machinist / Tool and Die maker.
It has been my experience that No 2 barrels are alike. But in generalities - Cut or Broached barrels benefit from a break-in / seasoning much more than Button rifled barrels and Hammer forged barrels are hit and miss at best, ever wonder why Remington 40x barrels are Button rifled and not Hammer forged?
Most of the big bore 30 cal. and up barrels I've used have been Cut rifled Krieger barrels and small bore barrels have been button rifled Shilen, PacNor and Hart.
I say listen to the barrel maker and you'll have a longer lasting more accurate barrel.
It has been my experience that No 2 barrels are alike. But in generalities - Cut or Broached barrels benefit from a break-in / seasoning much more than Button rifled barrels and Hammer forged barrels are hit and miss at best, ever wonder why Remington 40x barrels are Button rifled and not Hammer forged?
Most of the big bore 30 cal. and up barrels I've used have been Cut rifled Krieger barrels and small bore barrels have been button rifled Shilen, PacNor and Hart.
I say listen to the barrel maker and you'll have a longer lasting more accurate barrel.
Erik Cortina
Team Lapua Brux Borden Captain
Rookie said:
And how would you know they benefit from break in? There is no way of knowing since you can't compare the same barrel with both methods for obvious reasons.
Rock Knocker said:
And after all that cleaning you will need a new barrel!
I used to break in barrels, but noticed it was a waste of time. Now, I load some ammo to find a decent load and go shoot a match. I clean it for the first time when it has about 100 rounds on it, after that I go about every 150-200 rounds even if it doesn't need it!
Eric: Right on to what I said in my last posting: 2 barrels, each by the same maker, both cut rifled, both 6mm, 8 twist,stainless, chambers both cut with my new, first time reamers. The present one is coppering like crazy, and the previous, from last June was copper free from day one. Following some mind set, cast in stone cleaning schedule would have been a complete, costly waste (powder, primers, jacketed bullets, barrel wear) on the June barrel. I'll say it again: every barrel is different! 
I just bought a new Savage 308F/tr last spring. I didn't break in the barrel. I did clean it very very well and used Ultra-Bore coat on it.
I've always used some type of break in proceedure on every rifle I've ever bought new. Some clean easy some clean hard.
The Savage cleans the easiest of all my rifles sans my BPCR guns. It's also the only rifle I've ever used Bore-Coat on. Three or four patches seems to do it. Even if I let it soak over night I get little to no copper out.
My Son just recived a Garand from the CMP. It's one of thier RM specials with new wood and a new barrel. We're going to coat that one also so we'll see how it goes
I've always used some type of break in proceedure on every rifle I've ever bought new. Some clean easy some clean hard.
The Savage cleans the easiest of all my rifles sans my BPCR guns. It's also the only rifle I've ever used Bore-Coat on. Three or four patches seems to do it. Even if I let it soak over night I get little to no copper out.
My Son just recived a Garand from the CMP. It's one of thier RM specials with new wood and a new barrel. We're going to coat that one also so we'll see how it goes
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