brass with ejector marks
- Thread starter .243
- Start date
stool
Re: brass with extractor marks
extractor or EJECTOR ??
WHAT RIFLE
what caliber/cartridge ??
extractor or EJECTOR ??
WHAT RIFLE
what caliber/cartridge ??
stool
in my opinion..it gets down to personal qualification of just how deep those marks are....
a load that pushes brass into the ejector hole in the bolt face is not a "normal" load in normal conditions.
i would look at the base up about .2/.3 and look for stretching inside the case.
a single hot load in a tight chamber may just warrant a good fl sizing, but in a loose "factor chamber" it might be trash.
the word is mic as in micometer...not mike as in someones name.
a load that pushes brass into the ejector hole in the bolt face is not a "normal" load in normal conditions.
i would look at the base up about .2/.3 and look for stretching inside the case.
a single hot load in a tight chamber may just warrant a good fl sizing, but in a loose "factor chamber" it might be trash.
the word is mic as in micometer...not mike as in someones name.
Some factory ammo with show a light ejector mark. Look for loose primer pockets.
Overload on left. Primer fell out. Lightest load on the right. www.photobucket.com/joe1944usa
stool
a full grain below BOOK max load ??
or a full grain below max load for your rifle.....???
does not look good..not at all...
or a full grain below max load for your rifle.....???
does not look good..not at all...
A few weeks ago there was a very informative thread regarding cases that have ANY lube on them and what happens. Without the brass having the ability to grasp the sides of the chamber due to the lube it put unreal force on the bolt (face, lugs). It even went into the Brits proofing rifles by applying lube for their test..243 said:
I probably have some of this wrong and I believe the thread was deleted because the wheels started to come off. One part I got right was dry cases (and Chamber) are a must. I'd like to re-read it. But if you "might" have left lube on the cases it is something consider.
CaptainMal
Silver $$ Contributor
Scrap if both shell holder and primer pockets have issues.
Might have been a normal load but other issues, like carbon fouling, may have come into play.
Might have been a normal load but other issues, like carbon fouling, may have come into play.
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
The long and short of it is that the Lee Instructions are, being as polite as possible, oversimplified. Here they are, for any who have not read them.
http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/RM3508.pdf
The whole body of modern accuracy reloading information sharply contradicts these instructions (as to how to set a FL die). The proper way to set up a full length die is to take exact measurements of a fired case, using one of the several tools designed for the job, and to set the die for a specific datum line to head dimension. Rather than go into all of the details as to how this is best done, I will simply recommend that you do some research on various forums that cater to precision shooting and reloading, and then come back with any unanswered questions, or to verify the correctness of what you have found. I am not saying that this is what caused your cases to extrude into your rifle's ejector hole, just that you should probably choose a more sophisticated approach to setting your FL dies. Recently there was a thread on another site in which one poster extolled the virtue of following manufacturers' instructions to the letter when adjusting a rifle scope. The instructions that I posted a link to above, are a perfect example of why this is often not the best way to proceed. Neither they, or the scope instructions were intended to be anything more that basic, and both omit information that can be very important for the most critical, and technically sophisticated users.
http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/RM3508.pdf
The whole body of modern accuracy reloading information sharply contradicts these instructions (as to how to set a FL die). The proper way to set up a full length die is to take exact measurements of a fired case, using one of the several tools designed for the job, and to set the die for a specific datum line to head dimension. Rather than go into all of the details as to how this is best done, I will simply recommend that you do some research on various forums that cater to precision shooting and reloading, and then come back with any unanswered questions, or to verify the correctness of what you have found. I am not saying that this is what caused your cases to extrude into your rifle's ejector hole, just that you should probably choose a more sophisticated approach to setting your FL dies. Recently there was a thread on another site in which one poster extolled the virtue of following manufacturers' instructions to the letter when adjusting a rifle scope. The instructions that I posted a link to above, are a perfect example of why this is often not the best way to proceed. Neither they, or the scope instructions were intended to be anything more that basic, and both omit information that can be very important for the most critical, and technically sophisticated users.
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.