Brass prep for pistol comp?

[mattri]

Looking to start shooting some local pistol matches, 25/50 yards one hand, both hand and supported.

While prepping rifle cases we weight sort, neck turn, uniform primer pockets etc- what all does one do to a pistol case, 38 special in this case?

Weight sort, trim to length, uniform primer pockets?

More, less?

Thanks, Matt.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Some of the guys on this site talked me out of even cleaning the pistol primer pockets, and yes they still go bang.

 

[1911nut]

I load the new cases, tumble and load fired cases.

I use a Dillion 550. I never saw a need to trim cases or clean or uniform primer pockets. It doesn’t take much to hit at 25 or 50, you’ll be a bigger factor.

 

[LCazador]

The single most important thing is trim to length and using the same headstamp. The trim to length affects bullet tension and crimp and also plays a big role in bullet seating. For autos the case headspaces on the mouth so having a consistent length renders consistent headspace.

 

[Forum Boss]

Good advice above. In addition:

1. Consider a powder/load that will overflow if you have a double charge. This is a safety "heads-up" when manually charging cases.
2. If you are using range pick-up brass, get the FL sizing die that goes closer to the bottom of the case to remove the "Glock Bulge". One option is the Lee die sold by EGW -- I ran that with progressive press. https://egwguns.com/undersize-reloading-die-9mm-luger
3. Consider polymer-coated lead bullets. These are much cheaper than jacketed bullets, are VERY accurate, and run very clean. We ran coated Precision Bullets before the owner retired and now use coated bullets from The Blue Bullets
4. I wouldn't bother to weight-sort brass, but do trim to uniform length. As others have observed, the case length will affect seating and is essential if you do a slight roll crimp.

 

[1911nut]

The OP is shooting a 38 spl which headspaces on the rim. I never saw a need to trim 38spl brass and I’ve loaded some batches 20+ times.

A cartridge check gauge is useful to setup the sizing die even if shooting a revolver to ensure the case is fully sized.

 

[243Lapua]

Don't go into much detail in the whole cleaning topic. Make sure cases measure all the same though. Not much to it in a 38spl. I don't even clean my brass. Just quick brush to the primer pocket.

 

[cmysix]

The single most important thing is trim to length and using the same headstamp. The trim to length affects bullet tension and crimp and also plays a big role in bullet seating. For autos the case headspaces on the mouth so having a consistent length renders consistent headspace.

Not so, go to Bullseye-L there's a post right now, where a test has been done, your wasting your time.

 

[GotRDid]

You could start out with new brass, and I’m sure you could get enough firings to more than justify the startup cost. If shooting 148 gr HBWC, and the minuscule charges they shoot best with, these could last you quite a long time.

Norma 38 Special Brass - Brand New

Brand new 38 Special Brass. This brass has a norma headstamp. Quantities available: 250 ct 500 ct 1000 ct

ravenrocksprecision.com

 

[mattri]

Thanks for the replies.

Shooting new brass in a s&w revolver.

Didn't seem like there was as much to it as rifle brass but didn't want to leave anything on the table.

 

[K22]

I shot the 38 Special via the S&W Model 14 for over 30 years in NRA Precision Pistol Competition and qualified as Distinguish Expert with it.

The most important aspect is the bullet and powder. The 148-grain hollow base swaged wadcutter will hold a "X" ring at 50 yards in an in-tune quality revolver. It is by far the best bullet for target competition. For this bullet you want a fast-burning powder such as Bullseye or Win 231 or one with similar characteristics. Special care must be taken to prevent a double charge.

Contrary to what some believe, these target loads should be crimped. I light roll crimp can be used but I found that the taper crimp resulted in the most consistent groups. You will need a taper crimp die for this operation but in my experience, it is well worth the cost.

The only thing I did regarding cases was start with virgin case of the same brand / lot, trimmed initially and cleaned the pockets after each firing. In my experience this is the least, if all, critical component for the 38 Special target loads. I would get 30+ reloads out of a group of cases.

 

[LCazador]

Thanks for the replies.

Shooting new brass in a s&w revolver.

Didn't seem like there was as much to it as rifle brass but didn't want to leave anything on the table.

That's what I shoot is 38 special in a model 14. Starline brass is cheap nowadays and no need for range pickup brass. Keep 'em in the 10 ring! Enjoy.

 

[rlporter507]

clean the cases in walnut and clean the PP. load and shoot. In all my bullseye shooting I never saw a case get long. there such light loads they just dont need trimming. Shooting one hand at 50 yards I dont think you will see a difference in neck tenson. In rapid fires, neck tension is going to be the least of your problems. I used a taper crimp on 45 and 38 loads in a separate operation. if you roll crimp and seat a bullet at the same time you will get a bulge at the top of the brass, so if you must roll crimp, do it in a separate operation after seating a bullet. you dont need much, just enough so the other bullets dont move during firing. I used all the same brand, and lot when i could, but didnt keep it separate as to same number of firings. Gil Heberts target load for a 38 S&W 52 was 2.7 gr of bullseye, with a 148 gr hollow base wad cutter. it shot fine, and yes, they will tip a little at 50 yards.

 

[mattri]

Great tips, thanks.

I've been able to find HP-38 and Tightgroup but that's about it for powders. Unfortunately Bullseye, Unique etc have gone the way of the dodo.

 

[divingin]

While prepping rifle cases we weight sort, neck turn, uniform primer pockets etc- what all does one do to a pistol case, 38 special in this case?

Weight sort, trim to length, uniform primer pockets?

More, less?

Personally, I feel that the shooter is the cause of the vast majority of inaccuracy in pistol, so I do absolutely nothing special. Tumble (with fired primer still in), and straight to the press.

I do use same-headstamp (Starline) purchased brass though so it's all pretty consistent (except for 9mm where I use range pickup brass, but I don't use 9 for bullseye shooting.)

Do whatever you think makes a difference to your results.

 

[cem]

Trim to length once and test. As noted pistol brass won't grow much and can be taken as good. Trust but verify with new brass but mostly because it's quick and easy.

I have two Ransom Rests. Using a Ransom Rest is an art and one national level shooter famously has his loads tested by friend who gets better rest results than he does. It is a great snare and a delusion to spend potential practice time fiddling with loads when the gain from practice far exceeds the gain from working with the brass.

The accuracy improvements at 25 yards however real don't much show up in the score. A little extra selection at 50 yards does pay but diminishing returns shows up surprisingly quickly.

Bottom line, spend your time where it pays.

 

[MislMan]

Lots of help on this site. But if you truly want to compete go to website Bullseyeforum.net. Latest info and tips straight from current competitors.