Brand new to reloading looking for advice/equipment upgrades past my basic setup.

[K22]

Pick up items as you prove to yourself that you need them. It really isn't necessary to have a whole bench full of exotic tools and things if you are happy with your current loads.
Remember that countless rounds have been successfully loaded and fired over the years with nothing more than the old Lee Loader "hammer" type dies and scoops. I'm not saying that that is the ideal system, but you are already far ahead of that base. Make sure you understand what it is you are doing and set realistic goals for yourself before blindly buying the latest and greatest loading gimmick just because someone claims you have to have it. Remember when taking advice, it is your money being spent...not the advice giver's! Beyond a certain point, money spent for a lot of today's questionably "vital" items is usually better spent on bullets, primers, powder and time on the range...especially time on the range.

This is excellent advice.

 

[K22]

This is addressing the OP's tumbler remarks.

For about 45 years I tumbled cases and they looked nice. My reloads didn't shoot any better, just looked nice. The residue from the Lyman Media I was using was playing havoc with my dies forming paste from the lube. In addition, that residue would accumulate in the rim of the case gumming up the shell holders. So, after tumbling I had to wipe off the cases. No matter how careful I was, invariably I ended up with that media in my slippers or on my bench or on the floor when I emptied the tumbler. It was a pain in the butt.

Early this year my old tumbler died. I asked myself why am I doing this? Besides the cost of a new tumbler, more media, the time involved, and the difficulty of managing cases to be cleaned that are dedicated to different rifles, what was I gaining? The answer was nothing. Sometimes we do things out of habit. Sometimes it good to step back asked why am I doing this? I did. So, I stopped.

Now, I just wipe off the case with a shop rag with some mineral spirits and call it good. I wished I had done this 45 years earlier. I feel liberated! One less piece of equipment and one less item to stock (media). In addition, I don't have to manage my cases for cleaning anymore.

 

[jepp2]

I'm not criticizing anyone on this forum, but there is a tendency to recommend the high end equipment when much lower cost equipment will do just/nearly as well. A few examples:
- if you want to get velocities/ ES & SD, you don't have to buy a Labradar. A shoot through chrony can provide the data you need for 20% of the cost.
- Annealing can be done on a shoestring and you don't have to either get an AMP or not anneal. I used homemade torch holders for many years and effectively annealed.
- It isn't required to buy an A&D fx102i for scale needs.

From what you described your process to be, it sounds like you are prudent with your purchases. With all the excellent suggestions provided to your request, you can decide what you would like to add, and evaluate the options and pick what is best for you.

 

[dgeesaman]

This is addressing the OP's tumbler remarks.

For about 45 years I tumbled cases and they looked nice. My reloads didn't shoot any better, just looked nice. The residue from the Lyman Media I was using was playing havoc with my dies forming paste from the lube. In addition, that residue would accumulate in the rim of the case gumming up the shell holders. So, after tumbling I had to wipe off the cases. No matter how careful I was, invariably I ended up with that media in my slippers or on my bench or on the floor when I emptied the tumbler. It was a pain in the butt.

Early this year my old tumbler died. I asked myself why am I doing this? Besides the cost of a new tumbler, more media, the time involved, and the difficulty of managing cases to be cleaned that are dedicated to different rifles, what was I gaining? The answer was nothing. Sometimes we do things out of habit. Sometimes it good to step back asked why am I doing this? I did. So, I stopped.

Now, I just wipe off the case with a shop rag with some mineral spirits and call it good. I wished I had done this 45 years earlier. I feel liberated! One less piece of equipment and one less item to stock (media). In addition, I don't have to manage my cases for cleaning anymore.

I will say that if you shoot PRS where you end up searching for 10-12 pieces of high end brass in the dirt/grass/gravel and need them to cycle from a magazine with perfect consistency, then tumbling to get shiny brass is a good idea.

Or if you shoot in volume and find yourself enjoying significant range pickup brass where it starts filthy and needs to be perfectly clean for a safety inspection.

Those are the only use cases where shiny brass is important to me. The rest of the time I simply don't get brass dirty in the first place, which makes the whole thing a vanity matter not a practical advantage.

I have a tumbler and I currently tumble most of my brass every 4-5 firings. But if I suddenly lost mine I'm not sure when/if I'd get a replacement.

 

[searcher]

This is addressing the OP's tumbler remarks.

For about 45 years I tumbled cases and they looked nice. My reloads didn't shoot any better, just looked nice. The residue from the Lyman Media I was using was playing havoc with my dies forming paste from the lube. In addition, that residue would accumulate in the rim of the case gumming up the shell holders. So, after tumbling I had to wipe off the cases. No matter how careful I was, invariably I ended up with that media in my slippers or on my bench or on the floor when I emptied the tumbler. It was a pain in the butt.

Early this year my old tumbler died. I asked myself why am I doing this? Besides the cost of a new tumbler, more media, the time involved, and the difficulty of managing cases to be cleaned that are dedicated to different rifles, what was I gaining? The answer was nothing. Sometimes we do things out of habit. Sometimes it good to step back asked why am I doing this? I did. So, I stopped.

Now, I just wipe off the case with a shop rag with some mineral spirits and call it good. I wished I had done this 45 years earlier. I feel liberated! One less piece of equipment and one less item to stock (media). In addition, I don't have to manage my cases for cleaning anymore.

You are either a very patient man - or don't shoot high-volume. But you are right - wiping them off is all that is needed in most bolt guns to keep the dies shiny.

 

[pjd]

I will say that if you shoot PRS where you end up searching for 10-12 pieces of high end brass in the dirt/grass/gravel and need them to cycle from a magazine with perfect consistency, then tumbling to get shiny brass is a good idea.

PRS is going to be the primary use case for this rifle, so consistent feeding is 100% the reason for cleaning for me, shiny brass is definitely aesthetically pleasing... but past a certain point I really don't have the time, although I do like the fact I can just run them all day when I'm at work and get a good result.

As for a chronograph, I'd likely go towards a speedtracker mk4+ and have the option to mount it on the rifle as well as use it on a bench, even though far cheaper options are available if I can run it during matches or match practice I can get so much more data.

I did realise this morning I could simply make rudimentary a rudimentary check weight for my charge (turns out the tabs from the beer I drink are exactly 4.0 grains each with a touch of filing) and honestly I have a fair bit more confidence in this scale for now. It definitely has issues, but I can slow down and be accurate with it. I like the idea of having a second pan that's an exact match in weight though... being able to re-zero and chuck a charge onto the new pan would speed things up considerably when I think the scale is misbehaving.



Obviously not the most perfect solution, but it'll do until I can buy an fx120i by the looks of it. I was honestly leaning in that direction anyway as a buy once cry once solution... hard to fuck up measurements with a device capable of being an order of magnitude more precise than you need.

In the end though, I'll keep at it and keep all your advice in mind. I'm sure by the time I have a few hundred down the tube I'll have a better idea of where I need to direct my money... in the end, I'm fairly new to shooting (the ADF taught me to be able to hit the side of a barn when I was a kid though, so I got a bit of a head start) and no doubt, as has been mentioned in this thread, I can probably see the most improvement by just shooting more matches In the end the last one was the first match I got 100% in a stage, so for now the next goal is to do even better than that more than it is to shoot the tightest group possible (as much as I also enjoy that).

 

[Greg@wfcustom]

Maybe the scale Mark is referring to is top tier, but you do see a lot of us(Me) spend money on several different scales and then end up with a FX120i.

+1 on this.
I personally own the Sartorius Entris, but never really need the extra $700.00 worth of accuracy (.005 grn)
I paid for because I haven't started cutting kernels of powder into 1/3's (yet!).
It just makes me feel better in my head to see that 3rd digit even though I've learned to ignore it.
Just like a lot of things we do in BR, even after we prove to ourselves that it doesn't matter, we still do it because deep down inside we just know it all matters.
Scale wise I think the FX120 is the best bang for the buck.
Defiantly get a chrono as one of your first "extras" (actually an indispensable tool).
I started with an Oehler Mdl 33 many years ago, now own a LabRadar.
Buy one when they go on sale and don't look back.
JMHO,
Greg

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Reads like you are seating bullets in clean necks without lube. I would research and see if a simple change to your brass prep/bullet seating will show on targets.

 

[searcher]

You are about to go down a very deep rabbit hole yet, if you stick with this sport and do so over a lifetime as many of us have, it really is rewarding. That said - do your homework carefully before spending on big ticket items. Even the "smaller ones" can REALLY add up over time when you replace them with something better. I could have a garage sale just to get rid of all the small items that is too much of a pain to sell online. I have a drawer full of powder measures someone said was better. They weren't. Same for trimmers and dies.

That said - a lot of tools do the same thing. Some do the job much better than others and often, they cost a lot more. However, some tools cost five to ten times as much and don't do anything better. Take scales. for the price for the FX120I, you can buy a Harrell's bench rest powder dispenser ($250.00?) a cheap chrono like a Caldwell or Chrony (under $200.0?) (even the cheap ones work pretty darned good), a Creedmore Sports scale. (around $225.00) AND a half-way decent annealer (Around 400.00) The ultra-high-end scale isn't going to make your groups any better than another that weighs to microscopic amounts.

That base-to-shoulder measuring tool you mentioned you didn't have will help you far more than the difference in all these scales. And the whole Hornady version sells for what, $40.00? By the way, you should be able to use the .223 Rem. bushing - as what you are doing is "comparing" shoulders. Wherever that bushing sits on your shoulder is the comparing measurement.

Eventually, you will get an annealer if you shoot long enough and of an amount you feel worthwhile. I've owned a number of gas flame annealers. They got me through 50 years of reloading. They all do the same thing, some a little better than others. Now - they have the AMP and homemade annealing machines. I haven't tried making my own - but did just recently get an AMP. From what I can tell so far - it is FAR superior to any other gas flame annealer out there. Period. But - I'd NOT run out and buy one unless you think you will be doing this a LONG time or money is not an issue. The less-expensive gas annealers WILL get you by. They did me. If you can afford the AMP and decide later the sport isn't for you - you will likely have no problem selling it on this forum for not much more of a loss than you will take selling any other annealer. They are in demand, never go on sale and no better deal on Amazon. If you buy it - you will have state of art equipment. You could spend the savings on scales to mostly pay for it. This example is the other end of the spectrum - where you do get something better for a lot more money. The more you dive into the rabbit hole - the more gadgets you may want to acquire - like a neck turner. Frankly - I'd work on perfecting your load and shooting a lot to gain experience before going there. Only then will you likely be able to see the benefit of what it does for you.

The basic elements of what you want, to do precision loading, come down to the press (I'd hang onto your RCBS until you are at a high level of shooting - and even then...), a good reliable scale and powder hopper. I don't like combos. Something always goes wrong with one or the other, rendering it all trash many years later when you can't get parts. Try buying a part for a flip-phone. If the scale goes - only a few hundred. The Harrel's will be with you for decades. Then there are trimmers. A Wilson trimmer is probably the best hand-cranked trimmer out there as far as accuracy goes - or should I say none are better at any price. If you got into motorized trimmers, I'd still want one that "measures" off the base, as does the Wilson hand-crank. And that would make it the Henderson Precision trimmer. You can buy it for something like $400.00(?) and run it with your drill - then later upgrade to buying the power unit for it, around another $400.00. There is nothing (I know of) better out there that does a better job trimming, inside and outside chamfering in one shot, measuring from the base of the brass. You don't have to go crazy on dies to get good results. For chronographs, consider whether you might someday want to own a rifle that shoots over 4,000 FPS. A lot of the "radar" models are programmed to intentionally not record beyond that. Then you need another chronograph. Back to the bayonet or Chrony. For most shooter's needs - the more expensive chronos like Labradar just are not needed to give you the information that really is most often wanted - muzzle velocity. Check the max velocity on that radar model you are looking at. If it doesn't go over 4K - I'd seriously think about it.

The new digital scales are reliable, measure far less than you want to measure and are much faster to settle and read than any balance beam I've owned. Speed, precision and ergonomics should be considered. Welcome to the "hole"!

 

[K22]

You are either a very patient man - or don't shoot high-volume. But you are right - wiping them off is all that is needed in most bolt guns to keep the dies shiny.

I am both

I shoot a lot but not at each range session, normally 10-15 rounds at most, about 1,000 rifle and 1,000 pistol rounds per year. Both centerfire rifle and pistol range session are combined with rimfire shooting.

It so much easier now for me to manage my cases. I have 10, 223 Rem's and 4, 243 Win's, that I load for and each rifle has its own dedicated group of cases divided into 20 round boxes (rifle) and 50 (pistol). When I exhaust a box, I clean the rifle case necks with 0000 steel wool then simply wipe them off that evening or the following morning. It takes about 5 minutes. I perform both these procedures even when I tumbled so I haven't added anything, just shorten the time and process of getting cases ready to load. Very pleased with the new process. Wished I had done many years ago. Simple, Easy, Cost effective.

 

[K22]

I will say that if you shoot PRS where you end up searching for 10-12 pieces of high end brass in the dirt/grass/gravel and need them to cycle from a magazine with perfect consistency, then tumbling to get shiny brass is a good idea.

Or if you shoot in volume and find yourself enjoying significant range pickup brass where it starts filthy and needs to be perfectly clean for a safety inspection.

Those are the only use cases where shiny brass is important to me. The rest of the time I simply don't get brass dirty in the first place, which makes the whole thing a vanity matter not a practical advantage.

I have a tumbler and I currently tumble most of my brass every 4-5 firings. But if I suddenly lost mine I'm not sure when/if I'd get a replacement.

After a bad experience many years ago, I stopped using range brass for precision rifle many years ago. But I agree, if you use range brass, a tumbler can be a real plus.

It's rare that I eject a case on the ground, even during varmint and predator hunting. But when I do, it's no big deal cleaning wise, the real problem is finding the case in high hay or in leaves.

My cases are clean enough so as not to damage my dies, I make sure of that. In fact, without that pesty media residue gumming up my dies and shell holders, my cases now are better relative to my dies and shell holders. I have always steel wooled the necks even when I tumbled the cases to remove residual carbon.

 

[Ned Ludd]

PRS is going to be the primary use case for this rifle, so consistent feeding is 100% the reason for cleaning for me, shiny brass is definitely aesthetically pleasing... but past a certain point I really don't have the time, although I do like the fact I can just run them all day when I'm at work and get a good result.

As for a chronograph, I'd likely go towards a speedtracker mk4+ and have the option to mount it on the rifle as well as use it on a bench, even though far cheaper options are available if I can run it during matches or match practice I can get so much more data.

I did realise this morning I could simply make rudimentary a rudimentary check weight for my charge (turns out the tabs from the beer I drink are exactly 4.0 grains each with a touch of filing) and honestly I have a fair bit more confidence in this scale for now. It definitely has issues, but I can slow down and be accurate with it. I like the idea of having a second pan that's an exact match in weight though... being able to re-zero and chuck a charge onto the new pan would speed things up considerably when I think the scale is misbehaving.

View attachment 1480460

Obviously not the most perfect solution, but it'll do until I can buy an fx120i by the looks of it. I was honestly leaning in that direction anyway as a buy once cry once solution... hard to fuck up measurements with a device capable of being an order of magnitude more precise than you need.

In the end though, I'll keep at it and keep all your advice in mind. I'm sure by the time I have a few hundred down the tube I'll have a better idea of where I need to direct my money... in the end, I'm fairly new to shooting (the ADF taught me to be able to hit the side of a barn when I was a kid though, so I got a bit of a head start) and no doubt, as has been mentioned in this thread, I can probably see the most improvement by just shooting more matches In the end the last one was the first match I got 100% in a stage, so for now the next goal is to do even better than that more than it is to shoot the tightest group possible (as much as I also enjoy that).

You might consider a Gem 20 as a "backup" scale - it costs just over $20 and it works reasonably well in such a role:

Amazon.com

Remarkable little scale

Some time back in a thread about scales, one poster mentioned a scale, almost apologetically, I think because it is so inexpensive. His post seemed to indicate that he was an intelligent and experienced person, so I took a very small chance, and ordered one. Boy, was he right. I am delighted...

forum.accurateshooter.com

With respect to buying a [much] more expensive magnetic force restoration analytical balance, if you do decide to purchase the Speedtracker chronograph first, it should give you some idea of whether an expensive analytical balance is really going to do much for you. If your velocity ES/SD values already look good with your current powder weighing setup, how much will an expensive balance really add? There are obviously the considerations of reliability, ease of use, and speed, but those are not necessarily deal-breakers when we're talking hundreds of dollars more expense. Many shooters weigh powder to levels of precision far beyond what can ever reliably be detected using a chronograph; i.e. +/- half a kernel or less. However, the main reasons for doing this are to effectively remove charge weight variance as a variable from the reloading equation, and for peace of mind. Neither reason is essential.

The rifle you have should be capable of very good precision. I don't think it would be an overstatement to say groups in the 0.25 to 0.5 MOA range should be the norm with a well-developed load. Some considerations:

1) The 8-twist barrel is slightly slow for the Hornady 75 gr ELDM, which is what it seems to me you are probably using from your posts. An 8-twist is probably not slow enough to create obvious/noticeable stability issues such as oblong holes in paper or even keyholing. In other words, your bullets aren't going to fall out of the sky or anything even remotely like that, so don't freak out about the twist rate being too slow. However, the slightly insufficient twist may cause the bullet to behave as though it has a lower BC than it really does and/or result in not getting the absolute best precision possible out of your setup. If you see further evidence that this might be the case, such as not being able to tune the groups in any better than the current 0.50- to 0.75 MOA precision, you might consider giving the 73 gr ELDM a try. The BC is slightly lower, but its length and twist rate requirements will be fully satisfied with an 8-twist barrel.

2) As noted previously by @powderbrake, seating depth optimization is a BIG deal with .224" bullets. In my hands, the 75 ELDMs tune in in a very obvious way at ~.020" off the lands. However, you will need to optimize seating depth in your specific setup if you haven't already. As noted, testing in .003" increments should allow you to find the optimal seating depth window in your setup. If necessary, you can make yourself, or have Hornady make (at very bottom of page: https://www.hornady.com/modified-cases#!/) a .223AI case for their OAL gauge as one approach to establish baseline cartridge base-to-ogive measurements. There are also other methods to do this. It may be possible to use a standard .223 Rem case with the Hornady OAL gauge in a .223AI, but I've never actually tried that to determine how well it might work. For $20 + shipping, having Hornady make one is the easy button.

3) Keep tweaking the load and shooting. This will serve two purposes in that it will help you improve your shooting skills, as well as potentially reveal some new piece of equipment that you feel you need or would just like to have. I'm sure you will find more than enough items to spend money on as times goes by. More importantly, make a plan for competing. Understand your goals and determine the best way to get there and then organize your reloading and practice in such a way as to facilitate achieving those goals. Best of luck with it!

 

[searcher]

As for a chronograph, I'd likely go towards a speedtracker mk4+ and have the option to mount it on the rifle as well as use it on a bench, even though far cheaper options are available if I can run it during matches or match practice I can get so much more data.

After making my long post about different gear - I recalled that this chrono (speed tracker) was one I looked at as an option a while back. I decided against it after reading all the reviews of not working well when not attached to the rifle - something not easy to attach to a lot of rifles. And it is limited to 4,000 FPS, and while not a problem for your current rifle - you may someday want a fast varmint rifle. If you were to get a popular cartridge like 20 Practical, 22/250, .204 Ruger, etc., you will need another chrono that goes higher. Just good to know these things - just in case.

 

[JFrank]

I've loaded up some fireforming loads prior to these, but they're the first batch of match ammo I've loaded (apart from testing before the main run, which was a great success).

I'm currently taking factory loadings with quality brass, shooting them, cleaning the necks, tumbling them, lubing inside necks, lubing bodies, full length sizing/decapping, cleaning primer pockets, chamfer and deburr necks, brush necks out, priming, using a Lee dipper into a pan on a scale then trickling to weight, then seating bullets.

What is going to add the most to my process at this point while being budget conscious? I'm not against buy once cry once, and I'm ok waiting and saving now I know I can get by, but if there's something cheap (or even 'cheap') and usefully I'd love to know about it.

For calipers I have a pair of mitutoyos, and a set of ogive comparitors... no base to neck comparitors, because I don't even know what to use for 223ai, let alone during the first few firings while things are still changing a bit... so I've been using a 270 ogive comparitor which swallows a 223 neck to measure from that diameter back to the base and it seems to be a valid way to measure.

I'm really not overly worried about having the shiniest brass in the world, and just chucking it on while I'm at work is super convenient, so I don't foresee wet tumbling on the cards any time soon. However I've heard dry tumbling can be improved greatly by adding certain things to the mix. Worth it, or not?

I know annealing will be on the cards at some point, but I don't know whether to focus on other upgrades to save time first.

Although the rcbs digital scale seems accurate, I'm really not confident in it, though I'm more than happy with the speed and ease of just scooping powder then trickling up to weight. I've been considering simply buying some check weights I can chuck on the scale every few rounds to make sure my scales aren't drifting and raise my confidence... the other option is to buy new scales, but it seems like everything is going to be just as shakey until I'm spending top tier money. I'll get a quality powder thrower at some stage (if I don't settle on a autotrickler type system), but I'll still be weighing every load.

One of the many case prep stations will eventually make their way onto my desk, and will definitely be a timesaver, but not really going to increase precision.

As far as my press goes, and dies I'm happy with my setup. Rcbs press works like a Swiss watch and I'm happy that my dies are giving me consistent sizing and seating, so although I'm using Lee dies and more money can be spent, I'm getting a perfect 0.002 shoulder bump and I've modified my seating stem to suit vld bullets.
View attachment 1480124

Looks like you don’t need much of anything.
I’m still in the small line myself. Lol

 

[Greg@wfcustom]

Looks like you don’t need much of anything.
I’m in the small line myself. Lol

^^^^^^^^^^
Best post of this whole thread!!
Mic Drop….
G

 

[Bc'z]

PRS is going to be the primary use case for this rifle, so consistent feeding is 100% the reason for cleaning for me, shiny brass is definitely aesthetically pleasing... but past a certain point I really don't have the time, although I do like the fact I can just run them all day when I'm at work and get a good result.

As for a chronograph, I'd likely go towards a speedtracker mk4+ and have the option to mount it on the rifle as well as use it on a bench, even though far cheaper options are available if I can run it during matches or match practice I can get so much more data.

I did realise this morning I could simply make rudimentary a rudimentary check weight for my charge (turns out the tabs from the beer I drink are exactly 4.0 grains each with a touch of filing) and honestly I have a fair bit more confidence in this scale for now. It definitely has issues, but I can slow down and be accurate with it. I like the idea of having a second pan that's an exact match in weight though... being able to re-zero and chuck a charge onto the new pan would speed things up considerably when I think the scale is misbehaving.

View attachment 1480460

Obviously not the most perfect solution, but it'll do until I can buy an fx120i by the looks of it. I was honestly leaning in that direction anyway as a buy once cry once solution... hard to fuck up measurements with a device capable of being an order of magnitude more precise than you need.

In the end though, I'll keep at it and keep all your advice in mind. I'm sure by the time I have a few hundred down the tube I'll have a better idea of where I need to direct my money... in the end, I'm fairly new to shooting (the ADF taught me to be able to hit the side of a barn when I was a kid though, so I got a bit of a head start) and no doubt, as has been mentioned in this thread, I can probably see the most improvement by just shooting more matches In the end the last one was the first match I got 100% in a stage, so for now the next goal is to do even better than that more than it is to shoot the tightest group possible (as much as I also enjoy that).

Zero your scale, trickle up to exact charge, now zero it again.
I found by trickling to zero versus my target weight kept the scale working so to speak.
@BoydAllen brought this up a few years ago and it works in getting more accurate charges if digital is you method

 

[M-61]

I am assuming that you have good dies that are straight

Question:
How is the determination made that the die is not straight? I realize that expanders etc can cock a neck but aside from that what do to or use to determine a die is not straight?
I have a lot of dies. All run off the mill meaning RCBS, Redding and a few Wilson’s. Nothing out of the ordinary.

 

[Mark611]

Are you asking if it's not lined up in the threads of the press? First off, I use a body die that does not touch the neck when sizing, Neck sizing is a step that is separate, but after I complete both steps, I run my brass thru a concentricity gage to check the run out of the case, When I set my sizing die up, I keep pressure on the ram to help keep the die in line with the ram before I tighten the locking ring, YMMV.

 

[RabbitSlayer]

A magneto speed sporter is pretty cheap and works for me. Better brass cut the SD\ES in half compared to once fired cheapo brass for me. That was starline. 223 lapua brass is out of stock but for me its a gas gun im not destroying lapua in a AR. If it was a bolt for sure lapua.

I wish I had started with a giraud trimmer. Touching every piece 1 time instead of 3 would be great.

 

[TaperPin]

With the original poster’s setup, and we’re only talking prs accuracy, I would highly recommend even the cheapest powder measure and stand - hand scooping powder is a huge waste of time. Get one with a small cylinder since it will be more accurate than one designed for throwing 80 gr. of RL22.

Invest in a couple of cartridge loading blocks that fit the 223 case head without a huge amount of slop - my assumption is you’re loading 100 or 200 cases at a time so get enough for that.

Now that you have a powder measure and good loading blocks, try 100 loads thrown directly out of the powder measure (check every 10th just to double check the measure). You may find for your level of required accuracy, measuring every load is a waste of time. Going this route you’ll find ball powder dispenses the most uniformly.

Start annealing now and don’t wait for a fancy automated machine - consistent case neck tension is impossible without consistent brass hardness. Buy another loading block that is aluminum and a trigger start propane plumbing torch, or buy a $5 generic propane torch, but you’ll upgrade it to the trigger start so just buy the trigger start and save the $5. Turn the heat way down until you get the feel for it, but just heat the neck evenly until it changes color down to the shoulder - turning down the lights will show a faint red glow. Annealing is very much a marketers dream - the more high tech you make the setup the more money people will spend, and the more importance is put on exactly delivering the most accurate results possible, the harder it seems to believe it’s doable with a simple propane torch.

If you want real evidence this method works, anneal 100 as exactly as possible and maybe even turn them with a drill so it’s as exact as a fancy machine, and do 100 in the loading block - I‘d buy lunch if you could tell a difference in how they shoot.

Right now, spend your money on bulk bullets and brass, not fancy equipment. Save up for a progressive press.

edit: As for tumbler, there are reasons for one, but it seems guys with tumblers get in the habit of messing with it so much I don’t see a lot of time savings. I want to have my hands on every piece of fired brass to look for cracks, dents, leaking primers, high pressure signs at the normal case head separation area as well as the face of the head. After sizing is a good time for tumbling, but the savings are minimal, especially if you’re finding busy work to stay occupied while waiting.

Of course buy one if you’ve always wanted one, but don’t think you have to have it.

Have fun with it!