22 for me but I don't shoot anything smaller. If I did, I would.What’s the smallest caliber anyone is coating their bullets? Or does it make a difference?
Yes, pre-coated DTACs from Tubb.Do you use boron? If so what are the pros in your opinion, what are the cons?
Barrel life may be improved due to the heat factor being reduced somewhat.Yes, pre-coated DTACs from Tubb.
One of the touted benefits is less copper fouling. I have found this to be accurate.
Another touted benefit is improved barrel life, and I'll know a couple of thousand rounds from now.
A less-touted benefit is that I don't think about lubing the inside of my case necks, because the hBN coating on the bullet takes care of that.
I won't go as far as to claim any improvement to bbl life. Flame is the great, great majority of the heat source vs friction and that remains essentially the same. I've had bbls that last so long they defy all logic and what ya read but I've also had them die earlier than hoped with no changes whatsoever.Barrel life may be improved due to the heat factor being reduced somewhat.
I've never tried wet due to my concern, probably wrong..that it would accumulate more on one side than the other inside of a hp bullet. Again, possibly a complete non-issue but trhat's why I've steered away from it. I should give it a try and see. Testing is how we knopw stuff.I used WS2 for a number of years, left to go back to bare bullets, but have returned. I used to apply with BB’s tumbled dry in a mayonnaise jar, dusty and a real mess. I saw a post about wet tumbling, it worked great. I dump 100 bullets in a jar, fill half way with very hot water, add a tsp or so of WS2, seal and tumble in my Stainless Steel tumbler for a few hours, rinse and polish with a soft cloth. Be sure to wear gloves when handling them when polishing, the WS2 can cause skin rashes. I only shoot 22 and 6mm now, but do all bullet weights.
No more concerns of cold welding, nice easy bullet seating and by the low SD’s pretty good velocity consistency. I clean at about 200 rounds with no problems.
I used Tubb 6mm coated bullets in a 6xc for many years and then stopped because it took extra time. They worked well but my round count on this rifle dropped way down and I figured it wasn't needed. If I were doing a high volumn, I would use it.I’ve contemplated using HBN before but never have. Years ago I used moly coating in a few rifles and have gotten away from moly for a few reasons but HBN is of interest….. that being said I know next to nothing about it, pros and cons, thus the thread.
I’ve had a couple overbore cartridges made lately. The increased velocity and heat has a tendency to foul the barrel more than usual and I’m hoping that trying HBN will do a couple things. One is making cleaning the barrel easier with less fouling, two, help with cold bore shots striking home, not to mention SD and ES numbers.
Tubes sells a kit and so does bulletcoating.com, links below.
Do you use boron? If so what are the pros in your opinion, what are the cons? I did a search and there’s a lot of coating threads, many of which are very dated. Hoping maybe some of guys have insights or know of other products that help with what I mentioned above.
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Hex boron Nitride (hBn) reloading bullet coating tumbling vibrating kit
hex boron nitride (hBn) reloading bullet coating is the proven process to increase first shot accuracy and barrel fouling. DIY kit for 1000's of rounds!www.bulletcoatings.com
Tubb Precision Blended Boron Nitride Bullet Coating Kit
Tubb Precision Blended Boron Nitride Bullet Coating Kit. Coat thousands of bullets.www.davidtubb.com
This is why I have some interest, reduced fouling and easy of cleaning. I’m gonna try some in this 22-6.5 PRC. Thanks for all the input to you and everyone else.I won't go as far as to claim any improvement to bbl life. Flame is the great, great majority of the heat source vs friction and that remains essentially the same. I've had bbls that last so long they defy all logic and what ya read but I've also had them die earlier than hoped with no changes whatsoever.
Bottom line, I'm not convinced on that claimed benefit but reduced copper fouling and ease of cleaning...I am.
This is from…I've never tried wet due to my concern, probably wrong..that it would accumulate more on one side than the other inside of a hp bullet. Again, possibly a complete non-issue but trhat's why I've steered away from it. I should give it a try and see. Testing is how we knopw stuff.
I've read and heard the same many times. Just reporting my own experience with both is all. I like and continue to use ws2.This is from…
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Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) Low Friction Coating per AMS2530
Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) is a 1/2 micron thick low friction coating applied per AMS2530 that improves performance by reducing friction & noise.www.microsurfacecorp.com
Other sites also have declared that WS2 does not build up upon itself.
- Maintains the dimensional integrity of the substrate to within 1/2 micron with no build-up. Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) particles will not adhere to themselves so the coating thickness is limited to 1/2 micron.
N.B. Vampires and werewolves do not know they are not silver bullets. An undisclosed plus.
I've seen bullet weld with and without it but never that badThe only time I’ve encountered cold welding was on several Danzac 30BR bullets left loaded from the fall season and pulled in the spring. Besides the extra effort of pulling them there was a considerable (.003+/-) amount of material taken from the bullet and left in the neck. I just no longer leave coated bullets loaded for any extended period of time.