Boretech C4 carbon getter

[dickn52]

Ok, just got my C4 Powder Remover and worked on a Sav Model 12 LRPV in .223. It was showing a definite carbon ring starting to build and I wanted to get to it fast. Listened to everyone here. Bought it 4 days ago. Delivered today. 8 passes with soaked bronze brush, 20 cotton patches and then a lube and patched till clear again. Bore cam says I got it all and I am happy. Thanks everyone for rating this product, and I join the yes people here.

 

[K22]

I did contact Bore Tech and their rep told me that C4 can remove some of the copper. He also said that it was fine to use a bronze brush with C4 for extra prevention against carbon ring formation.

The fact that I'm getting little to no blue indication on patches after using Cu+2 he attributed to the C4 removing what little copper there was plus having rifles that don't accumulate a lot of copper. Three of them have Douglas match barrels, the others have Browning, Tikka, and Remington factory barrels. Calibers: 223 Rem, 243 Win, and 308 Win. All bolt rifles and never shot in rapid succession (i.e. allowing barrel to cool between shots) when practicing except for an occasionally followup shot during hunting.

 

[1K6BRA]

Thanks K 22 for the information on the bronze brush. I have a match this Sunday and I will try this method. At some point a friend and I are going to invest in a borescope together, this is the only way to tell what is really going on in the tube. I have had the chance a couple of times over the years to look down a few of my barrels with a borrowed borescope. Actually made me kind of sick to see what was going on in there especially on a Remington 40 X in 220 swift I once had with 2000+ rounds through it shooting at woodchucks only. It still shot good which is amazing. I am still having nightmares 30 years later after that sighting!

 

[pacificman]

Boretec c4 carbon remover is the bomb! I listened to guys here on this site before I had a bore scope
and they were all right when they suggested bore tech c4 carbon remover. I use it to get rid of the carbon
ring in the chamber. I rap a patch on a bronze brush... put the c4 on and twist it back and forth about where
the lands start in the chamber....perty quick no more carbon ring.

 

[ASbobcat]

K22, I just switched from shooters choice(for20+years) also Sweets occasionally to using Bore tech a week ago when a friend of mine let me borrow some of his, I was just amazed by the performance of this stuff. I had cleaned (at least thought I did) my barrel after a Saturday shoot and asked him to try his Bore Tech C4 and CU+2 cleaner Sunday morning before the days match got started. Couldn't believe how much junk came out! Have also ordered some jags from them as to not get false readings. Now if they could just get it to smell like Hoppies #9, for sentimental reasons only!

I read somewhere that the smell in Hoppe's that we all loved (and our wives hated) was banana oil. So now I peel a banana and set it on the bench while I use Bore Tech and it takes me back to my youth.

 

[ASbobcat]

This stuff is amazing. Never had patches come out this clean. Even the carbon in the throat is gone. Confirmed with my borescope.

I switched over to Bore Tech products many years ago and have never looked back.

There is another use for C4 that has not been mentioned. It quickly removes the carbon/powder residue on the outside of the case neck, and also removes tarnish on the rest of the case. I spoke to Bore Tech and they said many of their employees also use it for this purpose.
I no longer tumble my cases and have found that it effectively removes the oxidation left after annealing. This oxidation will scratch dies if not removed.

 

[K22]

I switched over to Bore Tech products many years ago and have never looked back.

There is another use for C4 that has not been mentioned. It quickly removes the carbon/powder residue on the outside of the case neck, and also removes tarnish on the rest of the case. I spoke to Bore Tech and they said many of their employees also use it for this purpose.
I no longer tumble my cases and have found that it effectively removes the oxidation left after annealing. This oxidation will scratch dies if not removed.

That's interesting - What I've done for years is use a piece of 0000 steel wool and give it a few twists on the necks at the range between shots when I practice. After I have a bunch shot I dump them into the tumbler for about an hour and they come out looking like new.

 

[K22]

Thanks K 22 for the information on the bronze brush. I have a match this Sunday and I will try this method. At some point a friend and I are going to invest in a borescope together, this is the only way to tell what is really going on in the tube. I have had the chance a couple of times over the years to look down a few of my barrels with a borrowed borescope. Actually made me kind of sick to see what was going on in there especially on a Remington 40 X in 220 swift I once had with 2000+ rounds through it shooting at woodchucks only. It still shot good which is amazing. I am still having nightmares 30 years later after that sighting!

A borescope is probably a good idea but perhaps ignorance is bliss. I'm too old now to invest in a borescope, probably in the winter of my hunting and shooting life so I'll let my rifle tell me if something isn't working. At my age I don't need a borscope horror movie. I'm not sure how I would interpret the results anyway especially if the rifle is shooting well.

Case in point about ignorance is bliss - I've read countless articles about how the 243 burns out a barrel after 1500 to 2000 rounds. Not disputing that but my Model 700 Rem, stainless factory barrel currently has 3,675 rounds through it and holds a 1 1/2 group (five shots at 100 yards) with my tailored reloads. That's not going to win any matches and it's not varmint level accuracy but for deer it's still effective.

 

[ASbobcat]

That's interesting - What I've done for years is use a piece of 0000 steel wool and give it a few twists on the necks at the range between shots when I practice. After I have a bunch shot I dump them into the tumbler for about an hour and they come out looking like new.

That works too. I actually just started using the 0000 method after reading about it here. While the C4 works, the brass seems to tarnish again quickly. I always assumed the steel wool would scratch the brass, but it actually polishes it.

 

[K22]

0000 will not scratch the brass, just make sure it's 0000 or finer. Also make sure you brush out necks and wipe off if you don't tumble because small desposits of steel wool may remain and you don't want that coming into contact with your sizing die.

 

[ASbobcat]

0000 will not scratch the brass, just make sure it's 0000 or finer. Also make sure you brush out necks and wipe off if you don't tumble because small desposits of steel wool may remain and you don't want that coming into contact with your sizing die.

Yes, all good to know. I de-grease the wool first and use it while still wet after rinsing out the de-greaser. The water seems to keep the tiny pieces if wool from wandering. A good buffing while drying with a towel has worked perfectly so far. No scratched dies yet.

 

[1K6BRA]

To clean my case necks I use a green Scotch-Brite pad( The kind used for scouring dishes.)I bought a Sinclair case holder and drive that fits into my cordless drill. I turn them at slow speed. Shines the necks up like new in about a second with no damage to the case. Plus you don't get any little strands of steel wool that may get into your case.

 

[/VH]

Another use for C4: I keep a prescription pill bottle of C4 that I submerge my muzzle brakes in while I clean the rest of the rifle. Easiest way I've found to clean one without an ultrasonic rig.

 

[JLT]

And let's not forget scrubbing down an AR's bolt carrier group. I place the disassembled BCG in s shallow tray, liberally spray with C4 and let it sit for 10 minutes or so before I take the brushes to it. C4 makes this a far less objectionable chore.

 

[snakepit]

To clean my case necks I use a green Scotch-Brite pad( The kind used for scouring dishes.)I bought a Sinclair case holder and drive that fits into my cordless drill. I turn them at slow speed. Shines the necks up like new in about a second with no damage to the case. Plus you don't get any little strands of steel wool that may get into your case.

The Scotch-Brite Grit Chart shows the green pads to be 600 grit. The pads come in 7 different grits.

 

[snakepit]

I use a Sinclair Chamber Plug and then fill the chamber or even the entire barrel with C4 and set the rifle upright for a day, week or what ever I feel like and let it soak and then clean the barrel. I only do this soak every 200 or 300 rounds. BoreTec told me that the C4 will not hurt the barrel no matter how long it sets. The technician told me they have test tanks with barrels that have been soaking for years with no problems.

 

[1K6BRA]

Snakepit, I'm not sure what grit of Scotch-Brite pad I use, I will have to check when I get home but it doesn't seem too harsh. Another trick I learned about cleaning muzzle breaks recently is to use CLR water treatment liquid. Submerse your muzzle brake for no more than five minutes and rinse off with water .I have used this method twice now and it makes them squeaky clean. I was told not to go too long soaking them as it can change the color of the steel slightly if done too long.

 

[JLT]

Snakepit, I'm not sure what grit of Scotch-Brite pad I use, I will have to check when I get home but it doesn't seem too harsh. Another trick I learned about cleaning muzzle breaks recently is to use CLR water treatment liquid. Submerse your muzzle brake for no more than five minutes and rinse off with water .I have used this method twice now and it makes them squeaky clean. I was told not to go too long soaking them as it can change the color of the steel slightly if done too long.

I'm sure it works well, but it IS an acidic solution. A mild one, but acidic nonetheless. You're right to keep the immersion time short.

 

[ASbobcat]

To clean my case necks I use a green Scotch-Brite pad( The kind used for scouring dishes.)I bought a Sinclair case holder and drive that fits into my cordless drill. I turn them at slow speed. Shines the necks up like new in about a second with no damage to the case. Plus you don't get any little strands of steel wool that may get into your case.

I have used green Scotch-Brite, but found it much more abrasive than #0000, especially when new. It also disintegrates into very fine abrasive dust that can be just as much of a problem as steel wool dust.

 

[Comrade Terry]

I use bronze wool. It does just as good a job, in my opinion, as steel wool. It doesn't leave particles that will rust.

You can get it at a marine supply store (chandler), or on Amazon.