bore cleaner?

[cj mac]

hi, new to the forum and just looking for some advice on solvents. being raised by a marine i know when you shoot your gun you clean it. i think he beat that into my head starting the day i was born. but i just thought i would get some opinions, slip 2000 looked impressive with there carbon killer, copper cutter & EWL lube. kleen bore has NO10 solvent , & NO10 copper cutter. there what thay call super lube has teflon in it. i was always told by some local benchrest shooters to runaway form anything with teflon in it. i see a lot of benchrest shooters will shoot so many rounds then scrub out the bore why? my first cousin spent 8 years as an army sniper. and all he ever dose is clean the bore about every 80 rounds & run a boresnake every time before a trip to the range. and he gets the same group or better as most benchrest shooters. anyway anyone ever use kleen bore or slip2000? sorry im long winded. thanks

 

[BoydAllen]

First of all, if your cousin is shooting a .308, and it has a good barrel, the velocity and barrel finish will minimize copper fouling, as compared to higher velocity rounds. Also, smaller bores tend to be more affected by powder fouling build up. There are a lot of variables involved in selecting barrel cleaning products. Typical factory barrels require a whole different approach than lapped match grade barrels. As far as you cousin shooting as well as a typical benchrest shooter, I doubt that, although he may be doing quite well for any other purpose. Outside of competition, shooters tend to focus on what are commonly referred to as wallet groups, which are in most cases happy accidents that do not repeat themselves on demand. To see how your shooting compares to competition shooters, enter a match. That will tell the tale.

Getting back to what you may want to try, why don't you tell us about your rifle, its caliber, and the type of shooting that you do. For my factory varmint rifles that tend to be cleaned at the end of the day, with no more than 75- 80 rounds down the tube, I have found that Wipe Out, a bore cleaning foam, does a good job with minimal work. I can leave it in the barrel over night. Usually I put some in when I first get back to the house, patch it out a couple of hours after supper, and put some more in to be left till the next morning. In some cases, I will follow that up (after thoroughly drying the bore and chamber) with a little brushing with Butch's bore shine to knock loose any remaining powder fouling.

 

[cj mac]

sorry on lack of info. it is a factory savage 10 in 308, most of my shooting is target but i do deer hunt. most of my deer hunting is done with my factory savage 110 in 30-06. i have used butch's bore shine in the 30-06 and it seemed to work ok. i have been told to use a nylon brush for cooper cleaners. i guess my cleaning methods suck. so for factory barrels how often should thay be cleaned & i know everyone has there own cleaning methods. guess im just looking for ideas. i dont know that much about benchrest shooting but i hope to have a 22-250 built one day. just trying to keep top accuracy in any of my rifles.

 

[BoydAllen]

IMO you should give up on the nylon brushes, and of course never use stainless. Buy your bronze bristled, brass cored, brushes by the dozen, and retire them when they are no longer tight in the bore. (Save a few for case necks.) To extend their lives, rinse them in a little rubbing alcohol (from a flip top solvent bottle) when you are done. That should stop the copper solvent from eating the bristles, and evaporate quickly. What kind of cleaning rod and guide are you using? Do you have something to hold your rifle while you are cleaning it? As long as you are getting good results on the target, I wouldn't get crazy about having a factory barrel spotless inside all the time. It may be counterproductive. Heck, it may even be for a match barrel. It depends on the individual barrel.

 

[cj mac]

cleaning rod is a one piece tipton carbon fiber & dewey guide, yes i have a gun vice. guess i will try some NO10 kleen bore, only reason why is i do use there brushes & patches. i have heard people say thay use hoppies NO9 solvent first and patch it out then use hoppies benchrest copper cleaner. why. don't copper cleaners work good enough? i don't care much for there oil my dad still uses it, im 50/50 on oil in the bore i do in some guns that might get shot once a year i still punch them out first.

 

[BoydAllen]

I think that the bores and chambers of barrels that have been stored oiled need to be patched out with a solvent and thoroughly dried, and that storing once a year rifles with their bores oiled is not a bad idea, as long as they are muzzle down, so that the oil will not end up in the stock wood, ruining the bedding. I am not too big on carbon fiber rods. I think that they are probably more abrasive than polished steel, or coated rods. I have a Dewey rod that I have had forever. The coating is fine. I like it. Personally, I like to use the weakest solvent that gets the job done in a reasonable length of time. I stay away from Sweets, after pitting a chromoly barrel by mistakenly leaving it in for an extended period. #9 doesn't do much of anything for copper, but if you add 1/3 Kroil to it, it works well for powder fouling, with a couple of patches and a brush. For barrels that do not copper badly, I like Butch's. For barrels that do, I like selling the rifle or replacing them with a lapped barrel If you have never shot a top grade, lapped stainless barrel, you are in for a treat, especially when it comes to cleaning.

 

[5spd]

I use Wipeout liquids & Wipeout foam in all my guns. Short cleaning times after the 1st time getting ALL the copper/carbon out. I also use a broze brush & dip it in paint thinner when done to kill the cleaner off it.
I do not oil any of my barrels either & store any gun with a wood stock bbl down in the safe to keep anything from seeping into the wood.

 

[cj mac]

i have been told some horror stories about sweets. i hope to have a 22-250 done within a few months. work has gone to heck in a hand basket around hear. i want to build one on a tikka action with a custom barrel and not sure on the stock yet. bad part is u got to buy the gun to get the action. only reason i want the tikka action is i shot one built like this once. cleaning a lapped stainless barrel has got to be much easer. i know 5R barrels are easier to clean cause thay dont foul as bad but i dont know if thay are as accurate. i need to look at Wipeout liquids website to

 

[Leaddog]

Montana Extreme Copper Killer works great for me.

 

[fdshuster]

Butchs Bore Shine for all normal cleaning. Warthog 1134 if I have a tough to remove copper problem. JB bore paste for carbon buildup. All work for me. Hoppes #9 is basically kerosene and does a good job on powder fouling / easy to remove, almost anything will do the job. Butchs will remove copper if it's a minimal amount, sometimes overnight soaking will get it all out. If it persists, then the Warthog 1134 is used with maximum 10 minute exposure. Toughest to remove is carbon & for that I use JB, as required, but its use is kept to the minimum required. I do not try to keep the bore squeeky clean / just want to keep it all under control. Before and after results verified with my borescope. The bores are easier to clean when I'm able to clean, or at least wet down the bore as soon as possible after shooting, sometimes even do it at the range before leaving, time & weather permitting. Just what little I think I've learned / works for me.

 

[k80skeet]

I agree with Charlie Watson on the Montana Extreme Copper Killer. I leave it in for about 2 hours and repeat if the is any blue on the patch. For real stubburn one I use Hoppie's Bench Rest and soak bore over night per their instructions. I used Montana Extreme nylon brushes to remove carbon. These products can all be bought from Mid-Way USA. I also use a Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rods with Tipton jags and patches. I have found all the above to be excellent products with high quality.